P1000 Won't start

[ghost]

I'm not a gear head and my service manual has not arrived yet so maybe someone can point me in the right direction.

Engine turns over but wouldn't start last night.
I followed the instructions in owners manual for flooded engine then left the charger on overnight. Still turns but it seems like there is no spark - maybe.

I installed a light bar last night - I'm good with electronics so I'm pretty sure I didn't screw anything up but I may have bumped another connection under the hood with my hand. The light bar is on the second isolated battery - both of them physically disconnected now.

The engine light flashes when I try to start but that's probably normal.

Thanks for any help....

 

[Admin]

 

[sajnaj]

exhaust bearing

 

[sajnaj]

i would take one of the spark plug boots off and insert something metal even a spark plug, and crank the engine and see if ur getting a spark. hold the metal object close to the block or something metal and look for a spark.

 

[ghost]

Thanks.
Yeah the muffler bearing is the first thing I checked. It's getting 12 v when I turn the key.

 

[Fullthrottle]

Probably rear right tire needs some air. Or a fuse mabye.

 

[ghost]

Probably rear right tire needs some air. Or a fuse mabye.

I knew I was making myself an easy target...

I removed and inspected all fuses (again). This time I got that square 40 amp fuse that is off by itself. What is that one for?
Re-checked the ground bolts under the seat - still tight.
Also pulled off one spark plug cover and put it back.

It starts now but now I don't know why. None of the above were loose when I checked them.
I'm concerned that I have a loose something that will act up again - except this time it wont be in the shop, I'll be out in the bush.

 

[CashMoney]

Might check both engine grounds and the ground bolt behind the computer to the left of the motor up front

 

[ghost]

i didnt check the one behind the computer before - but did now and it's solid.
I only had 2 things connected to factory electronics - one LED connected to key-on power and the reverse ground trigger connected to the coil of a relay. I did not realize that reverse trigger was +12 when not in reverse - I was expecting open when not reverse and ground when in reverse. So I left that disconnected until I get my head around this. Not sure if that could somehow cause a problem. The relay circuit worked when I tested it and its been connected for weeks without a problem.

I dont see how it could be but maybe that circuit is my problem - at least I'll know what to fix - or what not to re-connect.

 

[CashMoney]

That's odd there is power on it when its off.

 

[Springer]

i didnt check the one behind the computer before - but did now and it's solid.
I only had 2 things connected to factory electronics - one LED connected to key-on power and the reverse ground trigger connected to the coil of a relay. I did not realize that reverse trigger was +12 when not in reverse - I was expecting open when not reverse and ground when in reverse. So I left that disconnected until I get my head around this. Not sure if that could somehow cause a problem. The relay circuit worked when I tested it and its been connected for weeks without a problem.

I dont see how it could be but maybe that circuit is my problem - at least I'll know what to fix - or what not to re-connect.

The 12 volts you read when not in reverse is simply the 12 volts passing through the coil on your relay. The coil will not energize until you put it in reverse and take the reverse trigger to ground.

 

[Plumber32]

Did you check the kill switch?

 

[ghost]

The 12 volts you read when not in reverse is simply the 12 volts passing through the coil on your relay. The coil will not energize until you put it in reverse and take the reverse trigger to ground.

Nope.
The relay has been removed - just the wire hanging there.
Key off = 0 V
Key on =12 V
Switch to reverse = 0 V
Any other gear position = 12 V

 

[CashMoney]

The 12 volts you read when not in reverse is simply the 12 volts passing through the coil on your relay. The coil will not energize until you put it in reverse and take the reverse trigger to ground.

Good point. I totally forgot about that residual voltage. If you had a test light it wouldn't show up

 

[Up2It]

Did you check the kill switch?

We have a kill switch?

 

[CashMoney]

I wonder if your PRNHL cable is out of adjustment a hair, that might cause it not to fire

 

[Plumber32]

We have a kill switch?

Right next to the muffler bearing.

 

[ghost]

I wonder if your PRNHL cable is out of adjustment a hair, that might cause it not to fire

It does seem a bit off - also a pain in the butt if you're trying to shift in the dark and cant see the indentations. Id like to get my service manual before I adjust it.

Yesterday I was moving the shifter around while the engine was off to see if affects starting. Also wiggling wires and connections but it always starts now.

When it wouldn't start,I noticed the display area would hesitate before lighting up after turning the key. It doesn't do that now and starts up right away.

2 theories - I have/had a are loose connection somewhere. Or the way I had the reverse trigger relay setup was cause voltage to leak into my isolated electronics thru the relay coil (due to the +12 on the trigger) and the resulting current was detected by the p1000. Not sure I buy into that one as it has been hooked up for weeks but electronics can be weird sometimes.

Maybe I already fixed it by re-seating the fuses and connections.

 

[CashMoney]

I had a similar issue this weekend going up a hill after some water crossings. Mine just lost power and died. Then it would restart if you gave it some gas but would not idle and didn't have enough power to go up the hill. After multiple restarts it finally worked and I got up the hill and didn't have a problem the rest of the way back to the truck. I don't remember seeing any check engine lights either.

 

[Springer]

I had a similar issue this weekend going up a hill after some water crossings. Mine just lost power and died. Then it would restart if you gave it some gas but would not idle and didn't have enough power to go up the hill. After multiple restarts it finally worked and I got up the hill and didn't have a problem the rest of the way back to the truck. I don't remember seeing any check engine lights either.

You may have sucked water into your gas tank during the water crossing. The vent for the tank is not very high. There is a thread about this that may better explain.

 

[CashMoney]

You might be on to something. I think when it wouldn't run it was leaning towards the fuel pickup side