P500 Work light install questions

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mikear

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I plan to add a couple LED cube lights. While I’m at it, I may as well bring some 6AWG with a breaker from the battery + to a fuse block under the hood.

Couple questions:
Are you guys using marine wire, or just good stranded copper?

Do you guys know the ring terminal size for the battery (+) post/bolt?

For relays, are you installing waterproof or just regular automotive relays?

Should I buy the 6 circuit Blue Seas fuse block W/ negative bus and just ground the (-) bus to the frame, or buy it without the (-) bus and run one (+) wire to the lights and ground each light to the frame?

Where is the best place to pick up the Honda accessory harness? Amazon is showing $21 for shipping.

Thinking about this light kit: https://www.amazon.com/dp/B06XW8WK6Q/?tag=sxsweb24-20

What clamps are you guys running for the rear work lights (mounted to ROPS near headrest)?

I’m sure I’ll think of more questions. Thanks in advance.
 
Hondasxs

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6g is a little big if your just using it for accessories.
If you are using this same line for a winch then yes, 5 or 6g is great.
What all do you plan to install?
40 amps should handle 5 or 6 accessories at the same time.
Here is a wire calculator I like - Wire Size Calculator

Standard automotive wire in a loom is good.

1/4" hole rings. Try to find the fat rings.

Automotive relays will be fine. The relay itself is sealed. Sealing the connectors is an added part some do but it's not needed. Honda does not seal theirs.

The grounding method is up to you and of course taking into consideration the load. Yet, most just run a bus.

Not sure on the OEM harness. But check this one out we offer - KEY ON POWER Harness for Honda Pioneer 1000, 700, 500, and Talon 1000. $22 something if you use the discount code HONDASXS10

That light kit is a basic amazon kit. Nightlight has shown to be good. For $35 for a bar and 2 cubes you really cant go wrong.

Clamps are 41.3mm or about 1.625" A 1.75 with a spacer will work. Many 1.5" clamps will not fit.
 
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mikear

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6g is a little big if your just using it for accessories.
If you are using this same line for a winch then yes, 5 or 6g is great.
What all do you plan to install?
40 amps should handle 5 or 6 accessories at the same time.
Here is a wire calculator I like - Wire Size Calculator

Standard automotive wire in a loom is good.

1/4" hole rings. Try to find the fat rings.

Automotive relays will be fine. The relay itself is sealed. Sealing the connectors is an added part some do but it's not needed. Honda does not seal theirs.

The grounding method is up to you and of course taking into consideration the load. Yet, most just run a bus.

Not sure on the OEM harness. But check this one out we offer - KEY ON POWER Harness for Honda Pioneer 1000, 700, 500, and Talon 1000. $22 something if you use the discount code HONDASXS10

That light kit is a basic amazon kit. Nightlight has shown to be good. For $35 for a bar and 2 cubes you really cant go wrong.

Clamps are 41.3mm or about 1.625" A 1.75 with a spacer will work. Many 1.5" clamps will not fit.

I don’t have plans to add a winch yet, but I may in the future. Hence the 6AWG. Right now I am just planning on work lights and the small light bar. Beyond that, not much else.

The harness you offer looks nice. It looks as though it will only work with or accessory if I’m reading it right.
 
Hondasxs

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The harness you offer looks nice. It looks as though it will only work with or accessory if I’m reading it right.
It just provides a clean 12v connection for a key-on power source to use however you wish.
Winch control, switch panel control, relay control, raido control, anything needing a key-on source.
Its not really meant to power accessories but it can for a few small draw ones.
Has a max 15a rating from the ACC fuse circuit.
It would be the same circuit as the one linked above and the ACC/CIG socket.
 
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mikear

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It just provides a clean 12v connection for a key-on power source to use however you wish.
Winch control, switch panel control, relay control, raido control, anything needing a key-on source.
Its not really meant to power accessories but it can for a few small draw ones.
Has a max 15a rating from the ACC fuse circuit.
It would be the same circuit as the one linked above and the ACC/CIG socket.

Thanks! I should have said, “one control power source for an accessory relay”.
 
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If your running relays off a switch panel.
Than thats all you need really.

Makes sense. Use that to jumper between the line sides of the switches. I like that.
 
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A winch is a great Christmas present to yourself, then 6 ga copper, recommend Bussman (150 amp) waterproof switched breaker close to battery. Have a Northern Tool LED light for a rear light mounted thru OEM roof, plenty bright and pivots down for cab light when needed.

BC7BF41D A22C 4B85 8EBA 02C501B91CE4
 
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mikear

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A winch is a great Christmas present to yourself, then 6 ga copper, recommend Bussman (150 amp) waterproof switched breaker close to battery. Have the Nkrthern Tool LED lights for a rear light mounted thru OEM roof, plenty bright and pivots down for cab light when needed.

View attachment 164198

Looks very nice!
 
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Chuckie3

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So if I have a light bar to add to the Honda accessories harness do I need a rely between switch and harness
 
Hondasxs

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So if I have a light bar to add to the Honda accessories harness do I need a rely between switch and harness
Yes and no.

If that's the only accessory you really have outside a winch then no, you will be fine.

What size light bar?

If the light draws more then 10 amps. Then yes, I would think about switching to a relay.
 
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Chuckie3

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22” light bar,have to look and see how many amps it is. I only have Wench on accessories harness
 
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mikear

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Items ordered for this project/future accessories:

1. 6AWG wiring and tinned lugs
2. Blue Sea 6 circuit fuse block w/ negative bus
3. Bussmann 120A breaker
4. MICTUNING light bar & rear light rocker switches
5. Heat shrink and 3/8” split loom
6. Honda accessory harness
7. Nilight LED cubes and 12” light bar
8. Terminal strips (may not need)
9. Nilight 40A relays
10. 1.25” light bar/cube clamps (1.16”-1.41” diameter range per their specs on Amazon)

Should be a fun project.
 
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Mudder

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Items ordered for this project/future accessories:

1. 6AWG wiring and tinned lugs
2. Blue Sea 6 circuit fuse block w/ negative bus
3. Bussmann 120A breaker
4. MICTUNING light bar & rear light rocker switches
5. Heat shrink and 3/8” split loom
6. Honda accessory harness
7. Nilight LED cubes and 12” light bar
8. Terminal strips (may not need)
9. Nilight 40A relays
10. 1.25” light bar/cube clamps (1.16”-1.41” diameter range per their specs on Amazon)

Should be a fun project.
Good list. I found it easier in the long run to remove the skid plate to run the 6 ga wire with loom, and was able to see good zip tie points to avoid heat and rubs. Post some Pics when its all done.
 
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mikear

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Good list. I found it easier in the long run to remove the skid plate to run the 6 ga wire with loom, and was able to see good zip tie points to avoid heat and rubs. Post some Pics when its all done.

Will do!
 
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mikear

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Getting closer. Got the switches, lights, and relays installed, not yet wired. Accessory harness won’t be here until next week.

Trying to figure out where to put the Blue Sea fuse block to not interfere with a future box, winch contactor, and my under-hood storage box.

Thinking about mounting it on the top of the crossmember with 2 screws and letting it hang over towards the dash (photo with red box).

Looking at photos here and taking a straight edge it looks like I would have ample clearance to clear a box once wired. Can anyone confirm?

C83fb3bb45d18fad0bfcf55acc1b0935
606c89f8b2338be3eeaa90232e2190dbEfa3556b9dfd0461af1c6d8ddad4cb8346b3c0161961aeaa5a6e8a7e1d7d845b
 
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Chooglin

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Getting closer. Got the switches, lights, and relays installed, not yet wired. Accessory harness won’t be here until next week.

Trying to figure out where to put the Blue Sea fuse block to not interfere with a future box, winch contactor, and my under-hood storage box.

Thinking about mounting it on the top of the crossmember with 2 screws and letting it hang over towards the dash (photo with red box).

Looking at photos here and taking a straight edge it looks like I would have ample clearance to clear a box once wired. Can anyone confirm?

View attachment 164985
View attachment 164986View attachment 164987View attachment 164988
Looking good!

The box should easily clear the fuse block ,if mounted in the spot you are showing!

Screenshot 20191108 123042 Gallery
 
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mikear

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Finished up the install today.

Used a couple pieces of 1” flat strap and painted them so I could get all 4 screws in the Blue Seas fuse block. Just being anal here, probably wasn’t necessary.
F3439467885003d853aaa8417068a6ad

Ran the 6AWG (+) and ground in the 3/8” split loom. Also ran some 18/2 in 3/8” split loom for rear lights.
991c6599b649e10dd0dfdbc6ae7bc139B702e8b8710223caf7f564c0f0a75a2b

Had to use the Dremel to open the wire entry into the battery box. I was able to place the breaker in the battery box. Nothing to attach it to, but the wiring holds it firmly in place. Drilled a hole in the factory ground lug on the battery to secure the new ground.
152f212f8bb24d053fb028a823dbbdde

And the under hood storage box still fits!
0209faaae022a94424cdbc31fe790587
 
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Chooglin

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Finished up the install today.

Used a couple pieces of 1” flat strap and painted them so I could get all 4 screws in the Blue Seas fuse block. Just being anal here, probably wasn’t necessary.
View attachment 165220

Ran the 6AWG (+) and ground in the 3/8” split loom. Also ran some 18/2 in 3/8” split loom for rear lights.
View attachment 165221View attachment 165222

Had to use the Dremel to open the wire entry into the battery box. I was able to place the breaker in the battery box. Nothing to attach it to, but the wiring holds it firmly in place. Drilled a hole in the factory ground lug on the battery to secure the new ground.
View attachment 165223

And the under hood storage box still fits!
View attachment 165225
Nicely done!
 
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