100Acre
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CumminsPusher
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Been awhile since any building on this. Been using the van and it’s been absolutely flawless. Last trip was 15 mpg but was fighting a massive wind, gripped the steering wheel pretty good at times.
Well time to get the rear ramp door figured out. Had to grind off some rear handles and attachments to get the door into place. Last year bought a door and friend @popeye cut it down but nothing since. Last weekend pulling Clutch into the van in 2wd (broken axle) it got sideways on the ramps and people came running to help. Done! Sick of ramps! Now figuring best hinges, locks, and assist to close. Some more measuring then parts will be coming. Done with ramps and hate the roll up. My wife will be driving this and going up earlier then I most of this summer so she needs to unload the Pioneer safely.
Well time to get the rear ramp door figured out. Had to grind off some rear handles and attachments to get the door into place. Last year bought a door and friend @popeye cut it down but nothing since. Last weekend pulling Clutch into the van in 2wd (broken axle) it got sideways on the ramps and people came running to help. Done! Sick of ramps! Now figuring best hinges, locks, and assist to close. Some more measuring then parts will be coming. Done with ramps and hate the roll up. My wife will be driving this and going up earlier then I most of this summer so she needs to unload the Pioneer safely.
BWAF
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WillyBill
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Maybe trim the roll up door to fit your frame and bolt it to it. Any hinge of proper size will work and just use roll up gear from a regular garage door? That'll keep you away from that overpriced RV parts.
CumminsPusher
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Going to use factory roller with new cables and bump up tension to lift the door. Yes much cheaper and very dependable from what I’ve read. Decided on 4 weld on heavy duty 1” thick 10” long greaseable hinges. They will be welded to a thick piece of angle all the way across bottom that can bolt to the van box. Need it to unbolt if damaged, easier later. So that takes care of movement.
Still figuring out latches because toyhaulers have flat space next to the door this has 50deg curves. Looking for a longer cam bar setup that could be curved enough. Tough one
.050 aluminum sheeting on the outside with panel adhesive to the frame. Hard insulation between it and the inner 3/8” plywood that’ll get screwed to the frame. Probably have bed liner sprayed over that after I seam seal it up.
Our door we bought was dry rotted and all the insulation was crap, that will not happen with this build. I want to be able to fully pressure wash it and be able to leave it open even in the rain for a back deck. Looking at deck enclosures too. Been thinking about this for awhile but it needs to be up in there to finalize everything and get everything set and sealed good before it goes on.
Didn’t know anything about toyhauler doors but learning pretty fast. I’d get on one of the trailer forums but you know how those go lol. They don’t like anything different or anyone building something. Motorhome dealer by my work has given some ideas, it needs to work right the first time.
I have thought about using a small winch and a recessed D-ring to lift my rear ramp door. Maybe even make some side cables to hold it up for "deck mode".
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Sent from my SM-G960U using Tapatalk
CumminsPusher
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A 60$ winch from Harbor Freight would be a decent way to go. Saw a vid of a guy that did that. Actually thought about it. If you could gear it to the roller would be cool too.
Will be doing side cables for the deck mode for sure! There are so many different screens and enclosures available that make that a must
CumminsPusher
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Had a big side project this weekend so didn’t get the time I needed but did stay late tonight and got some done on the Basket.
Finished bodywork and paint on the box where rear view mirror and grab handles were. Cleaned up the back of the floor and cut down a piece of 2” angle to mount the door to. This bolts to the box so the door can be removed if there’s any damage. I learned this from a friend had an issue. The hinges are welded to this piece.
Hinges are simple and heavy duty, have grease fittings as well.
The door is now basically functional however waiting for additional hardware so I know exactly where to place bracing for everything before the outer skin and inside flooring.
Finished bodywork and paint on the box where rear view mirror and grab handles were. Cleaned up the back of the floor and cut down a piece of 2” angle to mount the door to. This bolts to the box so the door can be removed if there’s any damage. I learned this from a friend had an issue. The hinges are welded to this piece.
Hinges are simple and heavy duty, have grease fittings as well.
The door is now basically functional however waiting for additional hardware so I know exactly where to place bracing for everything before the outer skin and inside flooring.
Eltobgi
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That’s some fine craftsmanship right there! Keep the pics coming
Tramguage1
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As allways LOOKING GOOD there brother!
WillyBill
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NTCPrezJB
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Can't wait to see the first loading up picture with the new door.
CumminsPusher
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Man I love that woman. Most of the time lol.Who's that sexy helper ya got there CP?
J
JTW
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DG Rider
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J
JTW
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DG Rider
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CumminsPusher
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I really do like these things so far. I know without a doubt we’d have 20 plugs all jammed in a couple holes in the factory tires. Not even going to say they are the best but they are holding up to our heavy bushwhacking just fine. Will be buying a set for the Wolverine shortly.
CumminsPusher
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Gussets are in for the handle locks, plate steel for that. Everything ground down and panel bond being applied for the skin. Didn’t want a ton of rivets.
J
JTW
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That reminds me... Are screw or screwless trailers side panels better?
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