Good question. I do not know the answer but I can tell you that if the engineers who built a 20 thousand dollar rig tell me in the owners manual and warning labels plastered on the machines interior not to shift while moving you can bet your happy a_ _ that I am going to heed their warning.
Good question. I do not know the answer but I can tell you that if the engineers who built a 20 thousand dollar rig tell me in the owners manual and warning labels plastered on the machines interior not to shift while moving you can bet your happy a_ _ that I am going to heed their warning.
Are you a lawyer? HA! We are just trying to help you with our experiences, The P5 is a great machine and as well as a lot of other great machines have there quirks. Reverse is the P5'5
I sent him an e mail and invited him to dinner, haven't heard back, so far. Really!
Sorry if I ruffled your feathers. Did not mean to. After I read my owners manual if I feel that something is not clear I would go straight to the manufacturer for clarification. The information you receive in this way may not be what you want to hear but it will be the best way to hear what you need to hear to keep your machine running at its best.
Exactly how I and a few others shift. Wouldn't go low-high and make sure the tires are at same speed going straight. That's how I treat mine just like an old 4wd truck. If someone's not confident doing that and being careful to make sure all 4 tires are doing the same thing then my suggestion is to not shift on the fly.
your right i guess what i'm trying to explain to you is the knob on the reservoir will adjust your rebound and the spring length will adjust what you would consider compression that's how a basic fox shock works. stage 5 elkas will have a lot more adjustable features but also a much higher price tax if you want to spend the money go for it but its quite a bit of overkill for a pioneer i think stage 2 or 3 would be an awesome choice too.
Hum? I thought that spring length is for setting sag, that is the amount that your machine sags with your normal load, makes your set up work much better on a dirt bike. Are things different on a S x S? The way you set sag on dirt bike is, measure from point a to point b usually on a slight angle, with shocks fully extended, then load your usual load and set recommended sag with spring tension, up or down. then you are ready to start adjusting compression and rebound. I think thats why I'll go with Stage 5's, more like a dirt bike, but before I do, Ill quiz them about recommended sag.
And with adjustable high and low speed compression adjustments, no need to send shocks off for restack on your valve stack. Some day they will come out with high and low speed rebound adjustments for suspension junkies like me. HA
And while I'm at it. I'm trying to keep my machine as light as possible, no pun intended CP, I'm not going to enclose the cab, add batteries or anything that would add weight, may need to weigh my winter gear and compare. HA! I think I can make this thing fly. REALLY
Mine makes a loud clunk a split second before actual shift. Are you saying yours was doing that too until Honda (dealer?) chamfered the oil relief valves? I am very annoyed by the very loud clunking coming from the transmission. Would love to get this fixed. Can you PLEASE give me any info on what they did (Honda service bulletin #?) can you tell me about your clutch failure that led to them fixing the loud clunk? Thank you Smitty 335 so much for any info you can provide.
your right in with what your saying i'm just not doing a good job of explaining myself, you ride on the springs so with a good quality spring you should be able to make a lot of adjustment on how your rig rides more compression on your spring will be a stiffer ride so the one knob would be more for rebound and high speed compression its just my experience spring adjustments make a world of difference.
