906UP
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Club Contributor
The washer I used is a HD version of a 6mm washer. They come from Switzerland with the machines I set up/service. I have a few extras, if you want one send me a PM with your address.
JCart
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Thank you for sharing this mod 906UP, very cool indeed. Can you provide insight on tire size with this mod. I have ran 26 by 11 by 12s bias plys on 5-2 rims and now same rim with 27 by 11 by 12s radials on all corners. Ams slingshots and now Kenda HTRs both brands run true to size. Machine runs good, would be nice to have more low to mid range HP/Torque as it runs out of legs in 5th say up a 6% sustained logging road grade. So you shift to 4th buzz the engine up to rev limiter, shift to 5th, then slowly run out of legs again. Ideally, my thinking is with an increase in low to mid Power this will prevent from happening.
Now with the option of regearing provides yet greater flexibility in creating the optimum rig for folks. So in the above situation with 20% higher gear ratio, I’d probably be better off with 26” tires? My plan is to change out exhaust and get some sort of power increase via AFR module or programmer, to enhance low to mid power band. I really like the idea of not having to be on the rev limiter and having a broader, power delivery via gear change, on the other hand I don’t wanna be running in 4th everywhere, as it runs outta power even sooner (with gear change). If I could add anything on my ‘15 P5 would be greater top end speed (for logging roads) without being on the rev limiter and more powerful low-mid power-band, so on trails I could use the torque and run in lower gear. Hope this makes sense....
thanks again,
j
Now with the option of regearing provides yet greater flexibility in creating the optimum rig for folks. So in the above situation with 20% higher gear ratio, I’d probably be better off with 26” tires? My plan is to change out exhaust and get some sort of power increase via AFR module or programmer, to enhance low to mid power band. I really like the idea of not having to be on the rev limiter and having a broader, power delivery via gear change, on the other hand I don’t wanna be running in 4th everywhere, as it runs outta power even sooner (with gear change). If I could add anything on my ‘15 P5 would be greater top end speed (for logging roads) without being on the rev limiter and more powerful low-mid power-band, so on trails I could use the torque and run in lower gear. Hope this makes sense....
thanks again,
j
906UP
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Club Contributor
I had 27" Terrabites on it when I did the gear mod and it would pull them on hard surfaces but would bog in the sand in 4th/5th gears, the Terrabites are heavy! I ran the stock 24's for a bit last summer to test and the machine can still pull a bigger tire with the new gears. I'm thinking a 25" or 26" lightweight tire like a Bighorn 2.0 would be the perfect size.
I will probably be ordering 25" BH 2.0s on a 4+3 steel wheel in the Spring.
JCart
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Thanks for the insight, I’ve not put any miles on the 27” Kenda HTRs so will probably run them for a while yet and try and do some power increases. With the 26s bias plies on mine I had thought (at the time) they where the perfect overall ratio for where I ride. Hardpack soils the odd bit of muddin on old logging trails (poor alignment), meaning 3-4 gear driving twisty, and of course full throttle logging access roads, with Powerlines and pipeline RoW Access roads mixed in there due to work. Of course when upgrading I had to try the 27s in radials, I will say and recommend radials, they ride really well along with stage 3 Elkas, has changed my machine for the better.
Thinking out loud here are there other ratio combos that might yield a little lower change say, 10-12% and in this way I’d keep my tires and with added power might be in a sweet spot with 27s?
Thanks again for sharing,
j
I tackled this project today, took me about 5 hours of taking my time, the only snag I ran into was the reverse lock out/spring on the inside of the case, it came out and apart and I couldn’t find a diagram of how it went back into place, after an hour of messing around I finally figured it out. Overall this was pretty easy straight forward modification, as you follow along with the instructions it becomes more and more clear how things go. Hardest part of the job was just getting everything out of the way to get to the gears. Here’s a couple of random pics I snapped just for milestone memories.
906UP
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Club Contributor
Good Job! Let us know your thoughts after you've run it a bit. What brand/size tires are you running?
I am running Moose 26x10x12
What little I have drove it, right off the bat it feels much different ( in a good way) as far as 1st gear being a little better and not sounding like its going to fly apart at high speeds...but... the shifts are very hard and delayed, might just need a clutch adjustment, also I lost control of the throttle and couldnt downshift at all one time, turned it off and back on and it ran fine after that. I havent had time yet to take it for a long drive.
906UP
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Club Contributor
Did you get the SpeedoDRD? You have to have that or else the ECU goes into limp mode. It took me a few tries to get the settings in the right spot. That can cause the shifting issues.
advertisement
906UP
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Club Contributor
Did you get the "--" on the dash? I think you're close, just try playing with the settings a bit. My guess is a lower %..... like 30-31%.
I zip tied the "programming chip" up along the airbox so it was easy to make adjustments. It's been a while since I did mine so I don't remember the exact setting. Please post where you end up for others that are doing this mod.
906UP
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Club Contributor
Look at post #73, @Duckhunt set his at -36%. Try that and see if it calms down, this should fix the shifting as well.
I’ll try that, I don’t remember what was on the dash because I was cruising down the main road trying to watch for traffic, I believe it showed the MPH but wouldn’t show what gear i was in... I’ll try -36 today and see what happens
906UP
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Club Contributor
Yup, it's the gear indicator that goes to "--" when the ECU is confused, then it doesn't shift.
I set it to -36 and got to about 13mph on the dash and I got the blank dash, turned off and turned back on got to 13mph and got it again, is there any other programming that has to be done other than setting the percentage?
D
Duckhunt
Guest
Is the speedo erratic? Mine jumped around like no one's business, and the warmer it got the worse it got. But it never dashed out. But once the speedo would bounce all over the place then the shifts were electronically delayed. I didn't touch the clutch during the gear install, but you could feel it shift it was just like the key was off then "wham" out of nowhere you were off again. The more I ponder it the more I blame the speed sensor because moving it closer did help and hopefully fix it and also the part how after it got warm it got worse, well I'm wondering if a weak speed sensor gets worse warm? What else has changed? It could change with temp but to what extent? In my case while doing the gear change I didn't change anything that's related to that besides the oil, which I did go to a 0w-40 for winter. I did pick up a new speed sensor just to have/try it if it acts up again, and although I have minimal miles since I moved the sensor closer, it might be 100% cured. I'm just still gun shy.
Also I would love to know the exact diameter of the new drive gear. Maybe to be "perfect" we need our sensors to be .100" away and at .106-108" it's borderline for weak sensors?
I just set it to -32, the shifts are very delayed and hard, however I was able to get it up pretty high in 5th gear and it never dashed out...I wonder at this point if I should go to -30 or -31 or just adjust the clutch? Every setting I have tried the shifts have been awful. I also am prob the only one that has done this on a 2019.. I am hoping that nothing has changed from the 17,18 to the 2019
D
Duckhunt
Guest
I personally have a hard time justifying why it needs a clutch adjustment now. I assume the clutch shifted fine before the gear change correct? Just my thought.
906UP
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
Supporting Member
Club Contributor
The only changes for the 17, 18, 19 is the addition of auto shift. Maybe these are more temperamental about the speed/rpm/gear selection. If the dash isn't showing an error your close or good to go, you could fine tune if by moving in .5% increments and see if it gets better or worse.
advertisement
Similar threads
