P1000m3 Bilge blower finally

[Dasmoeturhead]

After 4.5 years of procrastination, I finally installed the blower. It really does help. Don't put this off like I did. Thanks to all the folks who have done this, and provided info on this install. Put a new 6 gang switch plate in the dash as well.

 

[Admin]

 

[Kisssofdeath]

I need photos.

 

[Dasmoeturhead]

I need photos.

As requested,

 

[Kisssofdeath]

Thanks for the photos. Looks like a nice job you did. I need to ride mine several times and a few hundred miles to experience the heat.

 

[Dasmoeturhead]

Thanks for the photos. Looks like a nice job you did. I need to ride mine several times and a few hundred miles to experience the heat.

If done properly, the heat shield works pretty good. The 1st one I made didn't work that great. This time I pushed the material up under the seat back, and this works good.

 

[Kisssofdeath]

If done properly, the heat shield works pretty good. The 1st one I made didn't work that great. This time I pushed the material up under the seat back, and this works good.

How much was the heat shield?

 

[LarryAmboy]

How much was the heat shield?

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Sent from my iPad using Tapatalk

 

[Kisssofdeath]

Thanks for the link.

 

[BWAF]

Thanks for the link.

P1000m5 - Project no more butt gravy

Beer check Little machine work Mount Dtdp Switch down for heat in cab up for NO more gravy Mount fan and brackets Trip to Colaw Rv for vent 4 pin trailer plug ext.cut in half so front plastic can come and don't half to unwire Need to cut 4" hole and put flex pipe on.Repeat step one as many...

hondasxs.com

 

[Dasmoeturhead]

How much was the heat shield?

I just went to Wallyworld in the auto dept, and found the best windshield sun screen, and used that. Cut to fit. I kinda used the bottom,of the seat for a template, and made sure I had extra so I could custom fit it. It might have cost $15.00. This is the 2nd one I made. This time I took the seat belts off so when I put it back together I would just have a small cut out where you re attach the belts to the mounting bolt. This for me worked easy, and I don't have a slit to large. I also pushed the shield up and between the seat back and plastic . working pretty good.

 

[Shelly]

As requested,
View attachment 209809View attachment 209810View attachment 209811

Where did you get your toggle switches/plate

 

[TexasJackKin]

everyone says Bilge Blower, but I don't recall any part numbers or sources....... Any help?

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[P1K5Dave]

I might do one of these as a down the road project. Here in MI, the heat isn't generally unbearable, but it might be nice to add a litte heat removal in the Summer.

But the idea of making it reversible when it's cold makes it a real consideration.

 

[tdhanses]

everyone says Bilge Blower, but I don't recall any part numbers or sources....... Any help?

​

This is what I used Amazon.com : SEAFLO 4" in-Line Marine Bilge Air Blower 12V 270 CFM Quiet Boat White : Sports & Outdoors

 

[Amre2me2]

I just went to Wallyworld in the auto dept, and found the best windshield sun screen, and used that. Cut to fit. I kinda used the bottom,of the seat for a template, and made sure I had extra so I could custom fit it. It might have cost $15.00. This is the 2nd one I made. This time I took the seat belts off so when I put it back together I would just have a small cut out where you re attach the belts to the mounting bolt. This for me worked easy, and I don't have a slit to large. I also pushed the shield up and between the seat back and plastic . working pretty good.

No need to remove seatbelts. Just make a slit and slide the belt through it.

 

[TexasJackKin]

This is what I used Amazon.com : SEAFLO 4" in-Line Marine Bilge Air Blower 12V 270 CFM Quiet Boat White : Sports & Outdoors

Super! Thanks a lot!

 

[bumperm]

I might do one of these as a down the road project. Here in MI, the heat isn't generally unbearable, but it might be nice to add a litte heat removal in the Summer.

But the idea of making it reversible when it's cold makes it a real consideration.

This may end up a little frustrating. Most high efficiency fans and blowers use curved blades, like an airfoil. When you run them backwards, efficiency plummets, so the CFM is in the toilet. Maybe not completely worthless as a reverse blower, but not really very good.

I'm doing my first service, so while it's apart, I'm also installing a blower and heat shield. I'll post more pictures when it's installed, but the fan mount follows the format of the one Dasmoeturhead posted, . . . with a few changes. I prefer to not use a U-bolt as it would tend to dent the thin lateral tubing. Instead, my mounting bracket has a round channel (half a scrap of 3/4 tubing, welded to a 1" X 1/8" thick bar. The half round tube section will allow the bracket assembly to be clamped to the lateral frame member using two common SS hose clamps (pictures will follow when it's assembled). The other end of the bar has a steel pin welded to the end. This pin will be captured by a bit of tubing stuck into the round "cut out" between the two black plastic air intake resonator chambers. The 3/4" half round tube is welded to the flat stock bar with about 1/4 gap at the trailing edge in order to angle the bar, and thus the blower, downward by about 10 degrees. This points the blower more directly at the header pipes than would occur with blower level.

Here's the mounting bracket with paint drying in the house (too cold in the shop!). More pictures later, when it's installed.

 

[bumperm]

Here it is installed. Goes in and removes easily, just loosen and slide off two hose clamps. I did line the half tube part with some very thin sheet rubber I had (not necessary, but nice!). When the hose clamps are snugged, the blower and mount are rigid, no noticeable flexure at all.

There's a good amount of space at the inlet side, so it's not obstructed. However, what little I know about fluid dynamics (really not a lot) suggests there may be some gain in CFM to be had by removing the hose size reducer from the inlet side. as the fan diameter is larger than both inlet and outlet. On the outlet side, that makes sense, as it speeds up the airflow as it compresses the air. On the inlet side it's less clear the reduced area helps anything, and more so given that I'll never run the fan in reverse or duct the inlet anywhere. I think the inlet area reduction presents a more turbulent flow to the fan blades. I know from aircraft props that what the prop or fan wants to see, for optimal performance, is clean laminar to the extent possible.

Any fluid dynamics engineers, or others here, who can weigh in?

Edit to add: WARNING!! Do not cut off the "intake" portion of the housing as questioned above! This will reduce output by about 14%. Leave it as is.

 

[bumperm]

View attachment 308409
View attachment 308414

A couple year's ago..

I've since added spacers to lower it about 4" and added metal dryer hose to kick hot air below headers. Helped.
Made my own under heat shield out of heat - sound deadening material and cut this visor on top of Honda's factory heat fix. Need to do the back of the seat.
Didn't use my thermal dynamics training, just what others have tried in the Pioneer past.

Nice & clean!

Wondering if there's any gain to be had by putting the new reflective heat barrier under the factory rubber sheet as opposed to on top. With it under, would the reflective material do a better job of reflecting and blocking radiant heat?

 

[bumperm]

Heat shield / sound insulation is under Honda's rubber. It makes little measurable difference above or below, as I've moved it around.

I'm not disputing what you're saying . . . just wondering if you took measurements both ways to quantify any difference. Otherwise there are a number of factors, like driving conditions and outside air temperature that could factor in. My butt's sensitive, but not all that precise!

As to the question I posed a couple of posts back about taking off the intake restriction on the bilge blower:

Before, stock condition, powered by a 13.3 volt lithium battery, current draw is 3.8 amps. Both intake and exhaust in free air (no restrictions) peak output flow of 36 mph measured at the opening in several positions (center to edge) and as far as 6" away.

After cutting off intake restriction, measured peak flow is 30 mph. In picture below, about the only advantage of cutting off the intake would be less intake restriction. Conclusion, on this particular bilge blower, cutting off the intake is not all that good an idea! I've had bigger failures, and way bigger successes (!!!), so I won't sweat this one.

The new blower bracket is quick and easy to remove, but in any case doesn't block the sub-trans fill opening.