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For those of you who have chopped the top, how much room is there to your head? Do you have to scrunch down to get in the seat? I have a fiberglass Mayhem Manufacturing roof that sticks down lower then the roll cage bars with speakers integrated inside, not sure it would work for me to drop 4”. But man I really would like to drop it lower mostly to get the heavy roof (400lbs) closer to the ground as not to be so top heavy.
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Bohnt10
Guest
I just did mine and I do not have to scrunch down. I’m 5’11 and I still have room to get in and out comfortably. I’ll also share I looked at this for quite awhile and was hesitant, however after doing it, I’m a huge fan. Looks so much better and more proportional. I’ll take some measurements tonight and let you know.
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Bohnt10
Guest
I did 4, 4.5 and 5 like a lot of other guys here on the forum. I will def shoot some pics to you tonight.
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Bohnt10
Guest
Took some measurements that might help. From the ground to the bottom of the top rail (at the center of the driver door) is 69.5”. 3 3/8” from the top of my driver seat headrest to the bottom of top rail. And 24” from the top of my tailgate (up position, center of the tailgate) to the bottom of top rail. I realize the first measurement is probably the most subjective because it would depend on how high your machine sits. The others I would think should be the same. Hope this helps. I was flying solo so taking a snap shot of me in it didn’t really pan out 
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Came bubble wrapped and had to use a floor dolly(Pallet jack) to unload it on two pallets. My brother and I struggled a bit getting it up on the cage with just the two of us doing it, and we aren’t little wimps either!! Haha.
As of yesterday i am the new owner of a pioneer 1000-5. Planning to chop the cage. Does anyone happy to know the pipe diameter and wall thickness? My best guess it’s 1 3/4” and. Sch. 40 but want to be certain. Also, I see a lot of guys just sleeved it, has anyone just cut and rewelded at the bung? I’m a pipe welder by trade, so I’d rather do it this way if it’s doable.
I sleeved the front and back with 1.625" tube. The middle was tight with the 1.625 so I cut a slit in it
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Bohnt10
Guest
Did the same here. I used this and it worked well. I do want to say thanks to everyone that posted info....there’s no way I could have known all this on my own.
I have a factory 2 piece (optical) windshield. Any tips on cutting it? Did you use a portaband or saws all? I’m assuming a grinder with a cut off wheel would not be a smart choice.
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The chop won’t work with my top, ine if the speakers will be sitting on my head. Oh well, I am putting on 14x7 4/3 offset wheels and 10” wide tires with 1” spacers on rear and just ordered Elka stage 4 shocks to try and help with the top heavy issue. Thanks again everyone for the help, love the chop look but the all in one roof was first, and I’m very happy with it. Has a back up camera too!
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I dropped my cage 3" cut the tubes with a portaband tacked the butt joints and tig
welded the tubes. I'm a retired steamfitter. Worked out fine.
That was the route I was wanting to take, but idk if I’ll have access to argon. So, I may have to 6010/7018 it.
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