P1000 Cargo trailer size??

J

JTW

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So I’ve been back and forth on a toyhauler or cargo trailer... and I’ve about decided just to go with a cargo trailer and make it what I want. I’m a little torn on size. I thought I wanted a small foot print but everyone keeps telling me to go larger. So I’m looking at 8.5x16-20... however I’m leaning more towards the 20’ now. I know I need a minimum of a 7’ door but I’ll probably go 7 1/2 just to be on the safe side. Also,I’ve decided on a v nose and possibly one with 45 forward angle. I want something I can comfortably pull with a half ton.

Any suggestions on size and options you like or you would change?
I’m leaning towards an aluminum floor and vinyl walls.. one piece roof and I guess that’s about all that I can think of... I don’t know much about them so I’m open to suggestions and opinions/ experiences.

@JACKAL and anyone else with 2 cents..

Also, brand and build differences between manufacturers would be helpful..

Thanks..
 
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Plumber32

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I had a haulmark 16' 7' tall. Was a good trailer. My previous setup. I'm thinking of buying another trailer. Pulling just the trailer man oh man she would suck the gas. I got 5.8mpg on 1 tank going across Kansas.
20150717 181611
 
sugarray

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I had a haulmark 16' 7' tall. Was a good trailer. My previous setup. I'm thinking of buying another trailer. Pulling just the trailer man oh man she would suck the gas. I got 5.8mpg on 1 tank going across Kansas. View attachment 62526

Was that a 6.4 or the 5.7?
 
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Plumber32

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Was that a 6.4 or the 5.7?
I actually got better mpg with the camper and trailer. Rather than just the trailer. Any wind kills the mpg with an enclosed. But the security was worth it especially being out of elements while towing
 
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knuckledeep

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I have an 8.5 x20 and it' not bad I would go v nose I don' know if they come with aluminum floor deff get extra height. You can get a landscape type that' lighter mine is a car hauler and weighs 4k empty
 
Plumber32

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I have an 8.5 x20 and it' not bad I would go v nose I don' know if they come with aluminum floor deff get extra height. You can get a landscape type that' lighter mine is a car hauler and weighs 4k empty
Is yours 7' tall?
 
J

JTW

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I’ve looked at so many online now that they’re starting to blur together.. I saw one that had an aluminum frame. Obviously it was more $$$... but I can’t see any reason for it. We’ve got flat bed aluminum trailers and I get that. But I’m thinking a steel frame would be just as good or better as it doesn’t have as much flex but that it’s also covered. I can’t think of ever seeing a trailer where the frame rotted and was the weak link before everything else just fell apart.
 
lee

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@JTW what are you planning to do with it.
I have a 17' V -nose that is 8.5' wide.
Extra 6" hight (total is like 80" at the door).
Very similar to what @ joeymt33 has.

I find the SxS has to ride in the center of the box for weight distribution.
While out west over X-mas I saw a few V-nose trailers where the wheels where pushed back some.
This is similar to how a smaller toy hauler (up to 26') is set up.
The weight of the SxS can sit further back when loaded, if empty there is a little more tongue weight but the truck can handle that.

If your thinking about adding a little room for a portapotty at the front or something like that it might be wroth looking in to.
 
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ohanacreek

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I’ve looked at so many online now that they’re starting to blur together.. I saw one that had an aluminum frame. Obviously it was more $$$... but I can’t see any reason for it. We’ve got flat bed aluminum trailers and I get that. But I’m thinking a steel frame would be just as good or better as it doesn’t have as much flex but that it’s also covered. I can’t think of ever seeing a trailer where the frame rotted and was the weak link before everything else just fell apart.

The weight of the trailer itself is counted against the load capacity of the axles so for example if you have (2) 3500 lb axles and a 3000lb steel trailer that’s 4000lb max load, but if you have a 2000lb Aluminum trailer you now have a 5000lb max load with the same size trailer and axles.

Also the trailer is lighter in general so easier to pull and stop with the same SxS being carried. This could make a difference if you’re trying to pull it with a truck without a max tow package or a mid size truck or SUV.

You really want to stay within the recommended tow ratings for your vehicle, with the way manufacturers are fighting each other for tow ratings these days they are pushing what the truck can safely tow to the max there’s not really anything left on the table.

A 150/1500 max tow package gasser today has the same tow rating as some SRW 350/3500 Diesel trucks from 20years ago.

Airbags may level a F-250 out pulling a 40’ triple axle but that don’t mean it’s gonna stop or be stable going down the Hwy.
 
J

JTW

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@JTW what are you planning to do with it.
I have a 17' V -nose that is 8.5' wide.
Extra 6" hight (total is like 80" at the door).
Very similar to what @ joeymt33 has.

I find the SxS has to ride in the center of the box for weight distribution.
While out west over X-mas I saw a few V-nose trailers where the wheels where pushed back some.
This is similar to how a smaller toy hauler (up to 26') is set up.
The weight of the SxS can sit further back when loaded, if empty there is a little more tongue weight but the truck can handle that.

If your thinking about adding a little room for a portapotty at the front or something like that it might be wroth looking in to.
Honestly.. with my work schedule it’s hard for me to get away when everyone else gets to play... weekends, holidays, evenings... those are my busy times. So it’s hard for me to justify spending for a toyhauler or similar setup I’ll maybe use 2-3 times a year. Hence my coming back to a cargo style I can suedo convert and basically use as a mobile camp but also a place where I can leave all my gear, tools and spare parts so everything is always in the same place and I don’t have to spend 3 days rounding everything up for a trip.

That’s an excellent suggestion.. and part of the reason ive been considering longer trailers as I knew the machine would take up some of that forward space for load balance. I’ll make note of that.. as im looking or if I have one built.
 
ohanacreek

ohanacreek

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Honestly.. with my work schedule it’s hard for me to get away when everyone else gets to play... weekends, holidays, evenings... those are my busy times. So it’s hard for me to justify spending for a toyhauler or similar setup I’ll maybe use 2-3 times a year. Hence my coming back to a cargo style I can suedo convert and basically use as a mobile camp but also a place where I can leave all my gear, tools and spare parts so everything is always in the same place and I don’t have to spend 3 days rounding everything up for a trip.

That’s an excellent suggestion.. and part of the reason ive been considering longer trailers as I knew the machine would take up some of that forward space for load balance. I’ll make note of that.. as im looking or if I have one built.

There are a few places in S GA that will customize a trailer for you and even prep it for AC/Heat etc...

A CTC is still somewhat on the table for me.
 
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J

JTW

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The weight of the trailer itself is counted against the load capacity of the axles so for example if you have (2) 3500 lb axles and a 3000lb steel trailer that’s 4000lb max load, but if you have a 2000lb Aluminum trailer you now have a 5000lb max load with the same size trailer and axles.

Also the trailer is lighter in general so easier to pull and stop with the same SxS being carried. This could make a difference if you’re trying to pull it with a truck without a max tow package or a mid size truck or SUV.

You really want to stay within the recommended tow ratings for your vehicle, with the way manufacturers are fighting each other for tow ratings these days they are pushing what the truck can safely tow to the max there’s not really anything left on the table.

A 150/1500 max tow package gasser today has the same tow rating as some SRW 350/3500 Diesel trucks from 20years ago.

Airbags may level a F-250 out pulling a 40’ triple axle but that don’t mean it’s gonna stop or be stable going down the Hwy.
I get that as far as weight and load rating but that’s kind of subjective as it sometimes takes more material to make up the difference in strength. My bought was if I was spending more money for a trailer because it has an aluminum frame, I think I’d rather spend that money on an aluminum floor instead. Now if I can get them both... great! But we’ll just have to see on cost.
 
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J

JTW

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There are a few places in S GA that will customize a trailer for you and even prep it for AC/Heat etc...

A CTC is still somewhat on the table for me.
I’ve sent off for my “ideal” build quote from a company in Indianapolis.. it would be ready to go for ac/heat and come with a canopy, insulated, aluminum floor, generator door.. blah blah blah. I’ve asked him to itemize it so I can kind of weight my options vs price tag. Whatever I do I’ll certainly put heat and air in it.. probably a small sink and vanity.. thinking of an open shower curtain with simple curtain pull around. Probably just do a porta potty as we already have a couple new ones dads picked up over the years. I might do a folding bunk system or maybe even hooks for hammocks. I’m thinking more of comfortable camping rather than luxury. A place to store my stuff, sleep and maybe shower or clean up. I won’t be staying in it for days on end at a campground just hanging out.

I also want something I can tow with the wife’s next vehicle. (Probably a new expedition or similar) So if we decide to take a westward trip with the kids.. everything works together. Hence another part of saying screw the toyhauler and all that extra weight when I can get everything I need from this. Plus.. I don’t get to use it often.. may as well have something that can be used for other things if need be.
 
chadbo

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I’ve looked at so many online now that they’re starting to blur together.. I saw one that had an aluminum frame. Obviously it was more $$$... but I can’t see any reason for it. We’ve got flat bed aluminum trailers and I get that. But I’m thinking a steel frame would be just as good or better as it doesn’t have as much flex but that it’s also covered. I can’t think of ever seeing a trailer where the frame rotted and was the weak link before everything else just fell apart.
Sometimes

IMG 1775
 
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Plumber32

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I’ve sent off for my “ideal” build quote from a company in Indianapolis.. it would be ready to go for ac/heat and come with a canopy, insulated, aluminum floor, generator door.. blah blah blah. I’ve asked him to itemize it so I can kind of weight my options vs price tag. Whatever I do I’ll certainly put heat and air in it.. probably a small sink and vanity.. thinking of an open shower curtain with simple curtain pull around. Probably just do a porta potty as we already have a couple new ones dads picked up over the years. I might do a folding bunk system or maybe even hooks for hammocks. I’m thinking more of comfortable camping rather than luxury. A place to store my stuff, sleep and maybe shower or clean up. I won’t be staying in it for days on end at a campground just hanging out.

I also want something I can tow with the wife’s next vehicle. (Probably a new expedition or similar) So if we decide to take a westward trip with the kids.. everything works together. Hence another part of saying screw the toyhauler and all that extra weight when I can get everything I need from this. Plus.. I don’t get to use it often.. may as well have something that can be used for other things if need be.
My thoughts exactly. I may sell my toyhauler and go this route. I'm not planning on a toilet or sink. Pretty much everywhere I stay has bathrooms. Throw some cots in. Webber grill, a.c. and heat. Both really easy and good enough.
 
ohanacreek

ohanacreek

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I’ve sent off for my “ideal” build quote from a company in Indianapolis.. it would be ready to go for ac/heat and come with a canopy, insulated, aluminum floor, generator door.. blah blah blah. I’ve asked him to itemize it so I can kind of weight my options vs price tag. Whatever I do I’ll certainly put heat and air in it.. probably a small sink and vanity.. thinking of an open shower curtain with simple curtain pull around. Probably just do a porta potty as we already have a couple new ones dads picked up over the years. I might do a folding bunk system or maybe even hooks for hammocks. I’m thinking more of comfortable camping rather than luxury. A place to store my stuff, sleep and maybe shower or clean up. I won’t be staying in it for days on end at a campground just hanging out.

I also want something I can tow with the wife’s next vehicle. (Probably a new expedition or similar) So if we decide to take a westward trip with the kids.. everything works together. Hence another part of saying screw the toyhauler and all that extra weight when I can get everything I need from this. Plus.. I don’t get to use it often.. may as well have something that can be used for other things if need be.

I looked at doing a CTC on a budget trailer and it was about 10-15k-ish depending on just how comfy I made it.

But it was much lighter than even a mini toyhauler because it was far more barebones.

We haven’t decided how we’d use one, what the towpig would be, or exactly how many are gonna be sleeping/showering in it. So the CTC/toyhauler is tabled for us right now.

You’re committed to a use unless you’re willing to lose money to swap to something else, I’m a penny pincher and don’t like to lose money. I’ll spend it on quality or to get the use I need/want but we have no idea exactly what that is right now.
 
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J

JTW

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I looked at doing a CTC on a budget trailer and it was about 10-15k-ish depending on just how comfy I made it.

But it was much lighter than even a mini toyhauler because it was far more barebones.

We haven’t decided how we’d use one, what the towpig would be, or exactly how many are gonna be sleeping/showering in it. So the CTC/toyhauler is tabled for us right now.

You’re committed to a use unless you’re willing to lose money to swap to something else, I’m a penny pincher and don’t like to lose money. I’ll spend it on quality or to get the use I need/want but we have no idea exactly what that is right now.
I’m with ya.. and that’s exactly what I figured. it depends how elaborate you go but I’m thinking a couple thousand dollars will rig it how I want. That’s heat and air, awning, some plumbing and electrical and what little carpentry I do. I don’t want to rig one full out and lose a bunch or not be able to use it for other things. If I’m spending over 10-12k I’ll just buy a dedicated toyhauler I can resale
 
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J

JTW

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My thoughts exactly. I may sell my toyhauler and go this route. I'm not planning on a toilet or sink. Pretty much everywhere I stay has bathrooms. Throw some cots in. Webber grill, a.c. and heat. Both really easy and good enough.
It’s true.. particularly if you’re using it for an activity like we do. It would be different if I could take off and tour the west for months at a time or went and setup in a campground in Florida and RV’d like old people do. Or even if I had weekends off like most folks.. but for me I just can’t get away enough when everyone else is off. It will most likely be me and the guys that use it the most often anyway. But my biggest reason is wanting to have all my gear in one place ready to go. It’s just so much easier and more convenient... when you’re out on a ride and you think of something you need.. but it putbit in the trailer and it’s there. No more forgetting what all you should pack and blah blah blah..
 
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