P1000 Cargo trailer size??

Plumber32

Plumber32

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It’s true.. particularly if you’re using it for an activity like we do. It would be different if I could take off and tour the west for months at a time or went and setup in a campground in Florida and RV’d like old people do. Or even if I had weekends off like most folks.. but for me I just can’t get away enough when everyone else is off. It will most likely be me and the guys that use it the most often anyway. But my biggest reason is wanting to have all my gear in one place ready to go. It’s just so much easier and more convenient... when you’re out on a ride and you think of something you need.. but it putbit in the trailer and it’s there. No more forgetting what all you should pack and blah blah blah..
Yep with my 16' I had shelves in the front. Tires, tools, ect was all set just hook up, load the wheeler and go.
 
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Mopower58

Mopower58

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The 3 axle enclosed car trailer we had was a 38ft V nosed gooseneck. The floor was the rubberized tread plate, it had torsion axles instead of leaf Springs and it was 6 inches taller than standard. It had white aluminum side walls which reflected light and were easy to clean.If you are pulling with a half ton I would suggest at least one axle with trailer brakes, a V nose and a minimum of 6.5 feet tall inside. The taller you go the worse fuel mileage/ load on the truck. Definitely get torsion axles with bearing buddies instead of leaf spring axles so there is way less wear and maintenance. If you have a 2500 size pickup with a diesel the height and weight would be a lot less relevant.
 
Mopower58

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Having pulled several different enclosed trailers the wind drag seemed to affect the load on the truck more so than the weight of the load. When pulling the 3 axle gooseneck there was very little difference pulling it with or without the 3800 lb car in it. Of course I was pulling with a 6.7 Cummins mega cab dually which never downshifted out of high gear even on fairly steep inclines. Of course I usually ran 75 mph.
 
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JTW

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Having pulled several different enclosed trailers the wind drag seemed to affect the load on the truck more so than the weight of the load. When pulling the 3 axle gooseneck there was very little difference pulling it with or without the 3800 lb car in it. Of course I was pulling with a 6.7 Cummins mega cab dually which never downshifted out of high gear even on fairly steep inclines. Of course I usually ran 75 mph.
Yes.. drag kills ya pulling but the weight matters on the stopping.

Something like this is what I’m thinking.. notice the v nose is cut down.

FC24B66B FACD 4544 A80E 678FB65D8221
 
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Mopower58

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That looks good, just remember that you need good trailer brakes. The more V on the front the better. That is a nice looking trailer.
 
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JTW

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Here’s my list of ideal items and things to ask questions about... anything I’m forgetting??

Trailer list-8.5x20x8

V-nose cut down
Screw less sides
One piece roof
Torsion axles
Buddy bearings
5200# tandem axles
7-7.5’ door
Dual brakes
Vinyl walls
Insulated
Ready for AC
Aluminum frame benefit/price
Aluminum floor price
Axles back for load distribution
 
Mopower58

Mopower58

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Here’s my list of ideal items and things to ask questions about... anything I’m forgetting??

Trailer list-8.5x20x8

V-nose cut down
Screw less sides
One piece roof
Torsion axles
Buddy bearings
5200# tandem axles
7-7.5’ door
Dual brakes
Vinyl walls
Insulated
Ready for AC
Aluminum frame benefit/price
Aluminum floor price
Axles back for load distribution
Personally I would not want an aluminum floor. It is shiny at first but it will get marred and scratched,plus it is slick when wet. I loved the rubberized tread plate design,it cleaned up easy and was very durable. Also you might want to get aluminum or half way up carpet with the other half aluminum walls because that would be more durable than vinyl. I think the aluminum frame would be a waste of money but in Mississippi we don't have erosion from road salts like the northern states do. We had marine grade plywood installed for the floors as it was more impervious to water contamination.
 
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JTW

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Personally I would not want an aluminum floor. It is shiny at first but it will get marred and scratched,plus it is slick when wet. I loved the rubberized tread plate design,it cleaned up easy and was very durable. Also you might want to get aluminum or half way up carpet with the other half aluminum walls because that would be more durable than vinyl. I think the aluminum frame would be a waste of money but in Mississippi we don't have erosion from road salts like the northern states do. We had marine grade plywood installed for the floors as it was more impervious to water contamination.
The aluminum floor for me is for the same reason you went with a treated floor.. i would probably cover the floor with rubber mat or a composite garage tile. I’m leaning towards agreeing with you on the frame. It would have to be a very inexpensive upgrade for me to do it at this point.
 
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Neohio

Neohio

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See if they can do spread axles like they are doing on travel trailers. Supposedly helps with stability towing.
 
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Plumber32

Plumber32

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The aluminum floor for me is for the same reason you went with a treated floor.. i would probably cover the floor with rubber mat or a composite garage tile. I’m leaning towards agreeing with you on the frame. It would have to be a very inexpensive upgrade for me to do it at this point.
You forgot a closet because you haven't came out of it yet.
 
JACKAL

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So I’ve been back and forth on a toyhauler or cargo trailer... and I’ve about decided just to go with a cargo trailer and make it what I want. I’m a little torn on size. I thought I wanted a small foot print but everyone keeps telling me to go larger. So I’m looking at 8.5x16-20... however I’m leaning more towards the 20’ now. I know I need a minimum of a 7’ door but I’ll probably go 7 1/2 just to be on the safe side. Also,I’ve decided on a v nose and possibly one with 45 forward angle. I want something I can comfortably pull with a half ton.

Any suggestions on size and options you like or you would change?
I’m leaning towards an aluminum floor and vinyl walls.. one piece roof and I guess that’s about all that I can think of... I don’t know much about them so I’m open to suggestions and opinions/ experiences.

@JACKAL and anyone else with 2 cents..

Also, brand and build differences between manufacturers would be helpful..

Thanks..
I was happy with my 8.5x34' enclosed trailer made by empire cargo . They are on ebay and located in mid Georgia. I plaid 7450 fo mine that was 12" extra height, and rubber flooring. Only sold it because I was going to tear it up getting up an down the mountain my new house was on. It weighed 4100# empty for reference.

I would recommend an 8.5x24 V nose, definitely have the rubber floor and extra 12" height making it 7.5' inside.
 
Mopower58

Mopower58

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Spread axles are just what the names implies, the axles are spread apart further than stock however it will accelerate tire wear on turns as it has to slide an axle more as it turns.
 
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Mopower58

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The aluminum floor for me is for the same reason you went with a treated floor.. i would probably cover the floor with rubber mat or a composite garage tile. I’m leaning towards agreeing with you on the frame. It would have to be a very inexpensive upgrade for me to do it at this point.
What you have to remember is that the actual wood flooring will hold moisture slung up from the bottom as well as the moisture from the inside if you load a wet Pioneer into it or wash the trailer out.
 
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JTW

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What you have to remember is that the actual wood flooring will hold moisture slung up from the bottom as well as the moisture from the inside if you load a wet Pioneer into it or wash the trailer out.
Exactly... that’s why I would prefer an aluminum floor.
 
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ghost

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I had the wood floor of my trailer Rhino lined and two feet up the walls. Easy to clean and good grip.

Make sure the ramp can support the weight of any vehicle you plan to put in there. In case you want to move a tractor around or something
 
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JTW

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I had the wood floor of my trailer Rhino lined and two feet up the walls. Easy to clean and good grip.

Make sure the ramp can support the weight of any vehicle you plan to put in there. In case you want to move a tractor around or something
We’ve got heavy equipment trailers for that but it’s a valid point...
 
J

JTW

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I did have a thought on the way home tonight.. what about a rear door in the ramp gate? I’ve seen it on horse trailers (I’ve been around a lot of them) but not on any of the cargo trailers I’ve seen. It’s hard for me to wrap my head around how light these things are built compared to an aluminum horse trailer.
 
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