P1000 Cherry Red Exhaust

[CID]

This makes total sense to me, @Jerryg. Any idea what steps I need to follow inorder to improve the mix? Maybe @HondaTech can chime in here.

Your Pioneer is fuel injected, you don't need to do anything other than pause for the dash lights to 'settle down' after turning the key to on, it will read the baro pressure and set itself. @HondaTech just told us that it can't calibrate while running, so it won't reset during an extended climb unless you stop, turn it off and restart after waiting for the dash lights to settle down. It's a habit I've been working on since learning about the trick.

 

[Jerryg]

This makes total sense to me, @Jerryg. Any idea what steps I need to follow inorder to improve the mix? Maybe @HondaTech can chime in here.

I don't know enough about Honda's fuel injection to comment on modification.

But maybe you can try a lower octane fuel, I think someone mentioned that here.

Usually, places of high elevation have low octane fuel available at refueling stations.

 

[beholdthefield]

Didn't see this mentioned anywhere, does get this hot when running with wheels, or just with tracks?

It's brand new with 15 miles total, so I am not going to have the answer to that for several more weeks.

I may be completely ignorant here, but people are quick to blame the tracks. Wouldn't keeping the machine's RPMs between 3k-4k with, or without, the tracks make that a moot point? My understanding is that a higher revving engine is what would get hot, but I am not well versed in these machines either.

 

[beholdthefield]

Your Pioneer is fuel injected, you don't need to do anything other than pause for the dash lights to 'settle down' after turning the key to on, it will read the baro pressure and set itself. @HondaTech just told us that it can't calibrate while running, so it won't reset during an extended climb unless you stop, turn it off and restart after waiting for the dash lights to settle down. It's a habit I've been working on since learning about the trick.

Got it.

Here's some additional weird I can add to this whole story for those still following along... I also have a 2008 Polaris Sportsman 800 EFI on Polaris tracks (winter) and wheels (summer). After 15 years of making this same 4 mile loop on almost a daily basis, I have never had any issues with the exhaust or fan. I do replace the rear axles nearly every spring because the boots tear at some point each winter inside the seasonal snowball they live inside, but that's it. The thing is a beast at this job. It's cold without the full cab though, and as I have aged, I want some of these comforts the Honda Pioneer offers.

 

[pappyo]

Can the air / fuel ratio be adjusted?

Not without a tuner and some way to read it first, the stock O2 doesn't output afr.

Pictuerd </> DynoJet-Power Vision </> has this feature along with several more adjustable Features.
Ful, time </> Monitor Temperature - in Fahrenheit °
Adj. - Fan - On/ Off Temp setting
Adj. - RPM setting
To name a few.
Pick & chose the options you want to change ( with in safe parameters allowed ) to prevent damage.
Run Dynojet tune or Return to OEM Settings.

FYI:To test "If Fan is working" </> At idle it takes 25/ 30 m/inutes to reach 220° </> in warm weather for the fan to come on.
( full description in my post in ) P500 forun ""Overheating""

Give DynoJet a call Explain you have Tracks & any other ??? Elevation Conditions Along with what you want to do. They will let you know if they can Help or Not.

Have run tracks on
rzr 800
P700
P500 w/ Dynojet ( better midrange power )
P520 w/ Dynojet
All performed Much Better after </> Opening </> Air intake </> & </> Exhaust outlet

Another FYI
3000/4000 is NOT High RPM ( Honda Pioneer )

 

[beholdthefield]

Another FYI
3000/4000 is NOT High RPM ( Honda Pioneer )

That's my thought exactly! I know the tracks are heavier. The machine will be slower. The turn radius will suck. The tie rods and axles will need to be upgraded. I am going to use more coolant and oil probably too. etc...etc...etc... But, if I operate the machine conservatively, especially while it's brand new, I don't see how RPMs of 3k-4k are causing the exhaust to get so hot. If anything, it's causing the fan to not come on, and that might be causing the exhaust to get hot.

FYI: At idle it takes 25/ 30 minutes to reach 220°

This could be a problem because waiting that long for the machine to warm up every time I go up/down the driveway isn't an option. I am thinking about adding this Cooling Fan Override switch so I can just runt he fan the entire time.

Give DynoJet a call

Doing this ASAP. Thank you!

 

[brettc]

Here in Arkansas I live about 300' above sea level. I trailer my P1000-3 out to our home in Western Colorado that sits at 7000 feet. Ride up sightseeing on the mesa behind it and I can find over 11,000 feet within a 21 mile loop in BLM. I have never experienced the overheating, loss of power, etc. that I've read about. Maybe we stop and look enough and the air pressure is sampled, I don't know. I take a full tank of fuel from here which would be higher octane, but fill up a few times while there. I'm just kinda baffled every time I read about other experiences. Maybe I'm lucky....

 

[Jerryg]

From what I am reading, the engine should not be that sensitive to altitude.

I would circle back and make sure both cylinders are firing correctly.

 

[Smitty335]

Here in Arkansas I live about 300' above sea level. I trailer my P1000-3 out to our home in Western Colorado that sits at 7000 feet. Ride up sightseeing on the mesa behind it and I can find over 11,000 feet within a 21 mile loop in BLM. I have never experienced the overheating, loss of power, etc. that I've read about. Maybe we stop and look enough and the air pressure is sampled, I don't know. I take a full tank of fuel from here which would be higher octane, but fill up a few times while there. I'm just kinda baffled every time I read about other experiences. Maybe I'm lucky....

Do you run tracks and operate in extremely cold weather?

 

[Smitty335]

From what I am reading, the engine should not be that sensitive to altitude.

I would circle back and make sure both cylinders are firing correctly.

Your probably not run tracks in extremely cold conditions?

 

[bumperm]

Another option would be to add a bilge blower or fan under the seat and directed at the headers, as is done to reduce seat heating by many of us in warmer climes. This should cool things down some.

 

[Jerryg]

Your probably not run tracks in extremely cold conditions?

No sir

 

[john790]

The water temp has nothing to do with the exhaust temp.Next time your exhaust is red take your temp gun and shoot the rad ill bet its under 200 and no need for the fan to run.

 

[CID]

That's my thought exactly! I know the tracks are heavier. The machine will be slower. The turn radius will suck. The tie rods and axles will need to be upgraded. I am going to use more coolant and oil probably too. etc...etc...etc... But, if I operate the machine conservatively, especially while it's brand new, I don't see how RPMs of 3k-4k are causing the exhaust to get so hot. If anything, it's causing the fan to not come on, and that might be causing the exhaust to get hot.



This could be a problem because waiting that long for the machine to warm up every time I go up/down the driveway isn't an option. I am thinking about adding this Cooling Fan Override switch so I can just run the fan the entire time.



Doing this ASAP. Thank you!

In your shoes, I'd figure out a way to make sure the fan is cycling, one way or another. Once you know that, it'll confirm that 2 bars really means 2 bars (safe). You need to know this, the biggest problem with winter riding is never getting up to operating temperatures and running your fan constantly would be a bad idea if that's true. Many guys are blocking their radiator, a little more each time until the fan is cycling but you HAVE TO KNOW that the fan IS cycling. Start there. Once you get the fan to cycle, make sure it's blowing the right way, some were delivered with the fan blowing the wrong direction. (that might be an old problem but you need to know that your fan is cycling properly, one way or another)

Bumperm's idea of a bilge fan on the exhaust is closer to what you're looking for IMO.

If my Talon wasn't in a hundred pieces (maintenance and loose parts would fall on the ground), I'd start it and tell you how long it takes for the fan to come on. I've never seen 3 bars and the fan cycles regularly once warmed up (like when I get out to whiz and leave it running). I'd also know if the headers glow with no airflow.

 

[beholdthefield]

The water temp has nothing to do with the exhaust temp.Next time your exhaust is red take your temp gun and shoot the rad ill bet its under 200 and no need for the fan to run.

This is my thought too, so what is causing the exhaust to be so hot?

 

[Jerryg]

This is my thought too, so what is causing the exhaust to be so hot?

Can be unburned fuel.

 

[Lloydtheredneck]

i have 2 hair brained ideas one more practical than the other. try running in low range, maybe that wont work it so hard. i dont think you are over working with tracks climbing. i have lots of friends running tracks on rubber band machines and they are always working really hard imo. the other really hair brained idea is a marine style exhaust manifold! i would bet this engine is not in any marine applications but i spose a guy could cast/fab a water jacket and some auxiliary cooling package of some sort to keep it settled down. it dosent address the main issue, but the mind wanders..

 

[brettc]

Do you run tracks and operate in extremely cold weather?

no tracks, and nothing that I'd call extremely cold no.

 

[Smitty335]

no tracks, and nothing that I'd call extremely cold no.

Ok. Back in the good ole days when we had carburetors we would take an assortment of main jets, pilot jets and adjust the air slide when we were going on high elevation rides, took maybe 15 minutes to complete this change out of jets. What was going on with that procedure was reducing the fuel and raising the air volume coming into the engine. Which made the engine have a complete burn cycle. I feel what's going on with his machine with the additional load from his TRACKS is loading the engine with fuel and it's burning off in the headers, It needs more oxygen. It used to be so simple in the carb days to figure this out.

 

[Mopower58]

Higher octane fuel burns slower than low octane fuel. I would drain out the 91 and fill it with 86/87 octane and drive it like you stole it. The fan is not going to come on at just two bars.