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Well I've drastically upped the ante. This time I wanted everything just right,but most of all I wanted nothing to interfere with adding or taking off any and all accessories, everything needed to be separated with a plug so something as easy as taking a bumper off doesn't require cutting and splicing, several factory Honda car harness plugs were used,all lights stereo equipment must be able stay on through the removal of roof windows doors ect,adding anything doesn't effect anything at all, everything clearly marked is user friendly and lites up, nothing effects anything from the ultra dependable Honda base unit, is fully reliable and totally waterproof,NO VISIBLE WIRES to snag on make windshield or roof remove ability bad or look like crap, double fused and dedicated relays easy to reach and labeled, no inefficient pod lighting to snag branches or effect future accessories,even spread 360 degree lighting to guide the way at the right time and automated so anyone can use with no problems with dead battery or complications (lots of people come up with us and I'm not stingy)and above all no clutter dependable and fun that works as if Honda designed. No easy task. Hasn't really been done before from anything I've ever seen. We didn't just throw a light on with dangling wires to a switch on a nearly 20k vehicle. Absolutely nothing overlooked and no obstacle that wasn't eliminated. All mounting hardware was either built or replaced with stainless steel,including all bolts, aluminum,powdercoated. Everything is soldered,heat shrinked,water mud and dust proofed,separate colored wires(34 total and diagramed) loomed,placed out of any danger,extra mounts created, ect ect ect...you can shake this rig from anything added without possible movement. Any hole has grommets and very well secured from both sides. Since I made harnesses multiple wires were eliminated and a large common ground was made off second battery so each unit doesn't have its own that will fail and be impossible to find. I didn't purchase something because someone else said it works or it was cheap or easy. Lots of research over the last 3 months.We bought multiple units of lighting and ran wires all around and tested the 1000 multiple times camping (real world) with multiple people through all kinds of crap till it was right then stated over made complete harnesses bought the right lights and hid as much as possible including running harnesses through the roll cage. It's now done. A total of 12 separate interior light fixtures totaling over 70watts and 27 separate outside fixtures totaling over 1500watts, 13speakers totaling 700watts,onboard compressor, 110v inverter,multiple USB ports direct to the stereo with charging specifically for iPhones(1 each occupant) 4 separate adjustable zones for the speaker system and lightning(everyone treated equally) backup camera automatically turns on as well as side lights and rear lights when in reverse(also shows front low view basically at front tires in the technical areas) interior lighting,floor light,and outside entry light all come on in its own dedicated corner with its own door, the switch lighting comes on with driver front door. Redundant systems that can shut off certain high drain accessories in sequence of importance until power returns back to the second battery(which is totally separate from main)Lots of work! NOTHING SKIMPED!! Well here's how...easiest to start front work back...
Lights
---Center front upper bumper,
168w 5d optic Osram 12in 60deg/30deg provides center penetration low. Come on automatically in high beam also with separate switch,very bright easiest to install highly recommend!
---bumper upper corners x2, 50w 7in Phillips single row 60deg provides great center/side view and are tucked very close and just behind the bumper so no damage occurs wires run through bumper and unplug
---bumper lower corner x2, 15w Cree led cob stripes,multiple color white/amber 6in. These function as daytime running lights and are white while key is on. If main power switch is on (I'll explain later) They are amber. Also flash amber as a turn signal and are tucked very tight with 1/4 in lexan cover for brush.
---lower bumper cladding x2, 24w Osram 5d 60deg for extreme side view, will light up from front to the tire nothing escapes this perfect positioned light that's totally recessed and out of the way say goodbye to those pods next to the windshield.
---lower windshield, 700w Osram 50in 20deg/60deg double. This is the curved bar to fit the front perfectly, be as tight and low as possible, providing both maximum straight penetration as well as awesome side light(again no pods) and totally out of the way. It is mounted via 1/4 in stainless custom mounts to the roll cage with an additional hidden center support for a very solid mount. No wobbly windshield mount here. You can take the windshield totally out or install a 1/2 unit when it's hot and it's so low it's never in the way even w/o window. This is a high drain unit and is third in line to automatically shut off if 2nd battery power dips below 11.7v
---inner fender lights x8,2 9w 12deg Cree rock lights per corner automatically turn on in 4wd or separate switch and really light up undersides for extremely rough terrain. They also double as part of the party lights(I'll explain later) with multiple colors.
---lower side lights x4, 2 each side Cree 15w 120deg are mounted in between the doors and lower rear step these are great at giving you light right up to the very sides are highly recommended cheap and easy. Separate switched but will also come on automatically
in reverse and 4wd.
---Upper roof side mount x2, Cree multiple color 36w 120deg. These are the only lights that require unplugged if accessory roof is removed. They come on as with side lights, and are part of the party lights.
---rear mount whips x2,55w 4ft Gorilla lights (best from all we've seen very tough) very bright multiple color separate switch also part of the party lights.
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---rear mount backup lights x4, Cree 15w 120deg. These are mounted to lower and side roll cage for maximum lighting. The work very well with backup camera(if you look close you can see me taking pictures in the monitor in the rear view pic) don't blind people riding behind you,light up sides extremely well and flat ass look cool. Works well while loading and turns on automatically when tailgate is lowered, in reverse, or rear camera switch is activated. (We had a single 72w Cree prior and it was always too much or not enough and was always in the way or covered by the rear window. These are always uncovered and great.
---door lights, 5watt Cree Honda logo lights up a Honda logo on each door that's opened. More cool then anything but does avoid puddles in the dark.
---under dash/rear box lights x4, 1 in each corner lights up entry per door and come on automatically also with interior light switch.
---speaker bar outer lights x4, 5watt cree cob strips. Each side comes on with each door opened and also switch.
---speaker bar inner lights x4, 3watt Cree are independent of each other and are designed as personal lights. They are mounted directly over head and provide instant light for anyone.
---switch lighting x14, each switch has instructional light that comes on with headlights or at dark with driver door opened.
---interior lighting comes on with any door or tailgate open
---party lighting turns on whips,side lights,and rock lights. It has a remote can be any color,flash, sequence and also has music mode which will "dance" to the music throughput those systems. This is also 2nd in line to turn off automatically if 2nd battery drops below 11.8v.
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