P1000 Cummins Pusher's Ride

[Eltobgi]

I don't have a photo of the amp mount but I simply drilled holes in the bottom of the box used small stainless bolts and mounted through rubber orings to stop vibration and to waterproof the holes.works like a champ and waterproofs your amp. We had this same basic setup in the 700 however without the port and we went through seat level water with tunes loud as hell(speaker sounds a little funny with water covering it though) this setup can handle about 2 1/2 feet of water within the plug and totally submerged with. Everything is totally waterproof and pressure washer proof beyond belief. I don't like doing things twice. Fiberglass is the way to go here however wood that's very well protected will work to. This hits so much harder then those roof mount units and it's never in your way

So...when you say box we are discussing your custom SSV Speaker box, and to access the amp you would remove the Subwoofer? If this is correct this is a great idea! the only other question i would have is have you ever had any problems with the amp kicking out due to overheating? I understand with the port there would be airflow, but i am curious about the tremendous amount of heat from the engine which you can feel through the seat.

 

[Admin]

 

[CumminsPusher]

So...when you say box we are discussing your custom SSV Speaker box, and to access the amp you would remove the Subwoofer? If this is correct this is a great idea! the only other question i would have is have you ever had any problems with the amp kicking out due to overheating? I understand with the port there would be airflow, but i am curious about the tremendous amount of heat from the engine which you can feel through the seat.

Yes. We made it pretty easy to take out though The only thing we had to adjust is the gain which is turned way down to be clean the rest is controlled through the deck or someone could get remote adjust so the amp doesn't have to be messed with. I went with an older Rockford Fosgate specifically because they don't really have overheating issues and are much more reliable then a lot of today's cheap amps. Like I said we had this set up in our 700 without a port for airflow it never overheated. You have to think most people put their amp under a seat of a car insulated on both sides or in their trunk under carpet. It's not a problem gives you some where to put it and protects the amp.

 

[JACKAL]

Very nice write up.

 

[CumminsPusher]

I wonder if full skid plate makes it louder?

I did finally run SEM Rock chip spray and I'd did get rid of some of the noise from the roof being on. I had noticed some vibrations coming from the roof so I had to take it off anyway. Come to find out the o-rings I placed between the roof and the roof clamps had been smashed to tight and a couple of the screws were lose(think I over tightened a bit so I replaced the o-rings with 3m double back and put blue thread lock on the bolts. No more rattle.

 

[Toyhauler33]

Not sure if I missed it in the pics, but when you ran the tubing how did you get around where the cage bolts together?

 

[CumminsPusher]

Went in and went out right at the bolts. My biggest concern was on the front a pillars I wanted them clear because not only is that area visible but that's where it takes hits from trees bushes and objects. And it allows you to run any windshield. There are no wires visible through any of the upright posts nothing can ever get snagged that way. There are over 40 wires and rca connections into the roof yet it's all invisible

 

[Hondasxs]

Hey @CumminsPusher,
Did I miss it, How did you get your headlights apart to paint the inside?
I have done it on my Rincon but it was a PITA. Ended up cracking the lens.
I used the oven method.
Thanks.

 

[CumminsPusher]

Hey @CumminsPusher,
Did I miss it, How did you get your headlights apart to paint the inside?
I have done it on my Rincon but it was a PITA. Ended up cracking the lens.
I used the oven method.
Thanks.

Well you did it right but maybe used metal? I used my paint booth to heat them up. Could use your home oven to about 210 but the heat in ovens is not quite as controllable so watch it. Use a razor knife to cut the gap the best you can on them and place back into the oven for 10-15 minutes again. I then took a couple plastic window tools and slowly pried apart,getting it separated it first is the hard part once it starts to go it almost falls off. It must be very warm to do this as the plastic will be a little more shatter proof and the factory adhesive a little softer. After it was off I simply masked off what I didn't want and then squirted it. I didn't want to spray it all because it looks cheaper you need to define it a little to look factory. The led covers do not separate from the black section without breaking plastic so they have to be masked separately easy way on the round circles is to use a socket the right size to cover and place it onto masking tape and cut around it. There are several different sizes and takes a little bit but I just bring into the house. After its masked I use 000 grey scuff (1000 grit)Over any plastic I will use adhesion promoter but doesn't matter as its waterproofed and uv protected by the lens. I squirted them with pr4 dodge color off my truck as it was very close but Honda red is r232 and can be mixed at paint store I mixed PPG single stage so it was two coats and done. Place into oven at 180 for 30min. Scraped all factory glue off again best if warm and then used black silicone to adhere lens back to the body. I've been doing headlight for 15 years and pretty good at it but as long as it's warm and you go slow it's pretty easy just don't use metal to separate or use tape to keep edges of the metal (like screwdriver) from pushing on the plastic. if you have someone help on the start of breaking them apart would be good. Once done it effects the light in no way. Just go slow it's not bad but I think it looks very cool especially on the delux. Really ties in the front end brings a little life into the black grill. If I do decide to change bumper I might just spray that as well I' just want it protected by the bumper before that happens. The white would look even better (damn you guys with the white) the white would be close to GM code wa8624 for color.

 

[Hondasxs]

K. I was concerned as I have never taken apart a LED headlight. I'll give it a try sometime. I am wanting to install halos or something. Might end up painting mine black while I am in there!
Thanks.

 

[CumminsPusher]

K. I was concerned as I have never taken apart a LED headlight. I'll give it a try sometime. I am wanting to install halos or something. Might end up painting mine black while I am in there!
Thanks.

Hey no problem. I was actually in there to replace the LEDs them with something better like Cree or Phillips because I was really disappointed with the output but it's a circuit board setup and really isn't worth it. I have a set of Audi projectors I was kicking over installing, I really miss the Light in the 700 at the end I had 55w HIDs in that. Anyway just go slow you already had the right path so you don't worry me you're pretty methodical anyway shouldn't take you too much. Good luck

 

[Boomboom907]

Dude can you post some pics of your rig on and in reverse, with the perspective a rider behind you? Maybe ten or fifteen feet behind?
I'm going to start with six pods for camping lights. I loved my 52 inch bar, but honestly after beer came out and fire went up, I just didn't need that much light.

However these pods suck ass compared to the 52 on driving trails in winter. So eventually I'm gonna have a 52 cree curved on the rollcage like you did, and I'd like a 52 straight Philips for a mile long spot right on top of the rig. If alaska is anything, it's dark when you really don't need it to be. We got screwed last hunting. I truly do mean this literally, if I didn't have my 52 inch bar, I have no clue if we would have got back to the cabin. We lost track of time and have to cross a riverbed. You have to make about 6 crosses and the water is about top of hood. Riverbed is about 3 miles long. Not a good thing for 2 un snorkle rigs. All we had was our stock lights, my switch was burnt out so I yanked it out and twisted wires together. I'm a true believer you can never have enough light after that day.

Anyways,

I'm gonna have 2 pods as backup lights, and I read your post as stating that you can have them on without blinding people behind you and still getting decent light coverage?

Why did you make everything so you can detatch your roof on the fly?

Also, if your still thinking about doing something about noise, tomorrow I'll post a pic of my headliner I'm doing. I used 3m spray adhesive, which worked amazing for all of 3 days. Sun hit black roof and you know the rest. So now I'm going to try some foam glue (I do construction and we use it alot. If this doesn't work I'll be shocked) for those three days I really think it helped the noise, as well as adding insulation to the roof ( keep extreme hot out longer and extreme cold)

looks nice and cuts that reverberating engine sound from bouncing back at you.

Back to your stupid amazing over engineered space shuttle.

Have you done anything involving a fresh air blower for the cab? I'm getting ready to snorkle my rig simply by doing the hole saw hood method, and I'm thinking about ducting a vent into the floor and cutting a hole in the hood and putting a hoodscoop. Thoughts?

I got 4 pods on the way, giving me a total of six. Some better pics of your mounting locations would be cool, though im thinking about going to the roof as Ill never ever want to take it off.

Have you named your rig? I'm calling yours apollo. Mines name is cthulu.

 

[CumminsPusher]

I had lots of cool names for it in mind, but in the end a two year old named it "Bye-Bye-Side " because when it leaves it doesn't come back to camp for hours. It stuck. I've got 4 9watt 120 degree Cree directly on the tail and 2 more in rear steps facing back which doesn't sound like much because I had a 72 combo before however I did not like it, it was flat out too much center light and nothing on the sides. Not only does this play into favor of the backup camera but it spreads the light out really well and illuminates everything. As long as you're about 30-40 ft behind someone can follow very happily with no light even in pure dark. Every weekend someone is low on power or doesn't have light yet they can still come we've had as many as 4 bikes behind us with no lights yet no problems. We go on lots of night rides in fact this machine gets used mainly after dark and I've been designing it through many others for years. Every time me or someone say "it should do this or have this" I take into account. I went with the rock lights because they are easier to place and mount and do a drastically better job if spreading light. 120deg as opposed to 60 at best. The Cree rock lights are amazing they are very bright and seem overly bright for only being 9watts you can't look into them at all.

They are bright without blinding from a few feet away though. They work well for most applications other then penetration. We also use this rig with key off most of the night even if not cruising for camp setup,wood snatching,looking for Sasquatch and the like and needed a lower power solution that was awesome sometimes less is better it was more money but worth it. I love being able to take off the top and not lose anything. If you plan on not taking the roof off I suggest running two up each rear roll bar two on the upper roll bar (rather then lower as I did) and do the rear step lights it works great and it'll light up very well when in reverse you do not need a combo beam it's a waste you need to be able to have the back lit up more efficient then light in the center at 50yrs. I've backed out of major stuff with these without all of the "surprises". There are really no area that's not lit up because of there pattern. These lights all have very thick glass covers that do not break and if get muddy will not scratch. What I did that works well to hook this up was use the ground wire for the backup censor through a relay to change polarity to positive. It's easy. Ground comes on completes the circuit and turns on power. Makes it nice because now you can run positive from your dash switch to that same wire(can't backfeed because reverse goes through a relay now) and you have an additional switch for backup lights so you don't need key on in reverse. Also camera comes on in reverse and lights light up when you turn camera on. Ran all the wires through the bars so nothing gets snagged and looks great. I'm very methodical and I wanted this to work right. Many people use it and I didn't want people to have to "hunt for a switch" most of this is automated so everything comes on without use of a switch. No one gets confused. I also used a separate switch to control all low power accessories so key doesn't run up hours and it's impossible to kill the start battery even as much as we use it without key. It's a very smart system once installed it's flawless.
Fresh air isn't an issue as we have glass windshield ,partial, plexiglass and now the BugBuster which can all be switched in 5min depending on situation. Nothing is connected to roof or windows which is great! I keep my 50" through it all(go 52 if you mount like I did it'll be easier) I sent pick of my mount as well. If you need I can take it off and send diagram of it. I did have to redesign it for the BugBuster but now again works flawlessly and will work for all Honda accessories. If you need any help or suggestions on anything I have done this many times and have created the systems on many of these I have many ideas and come up with pretty much anything needed on the fly (never stop thinking or taking things in very ocd) I just like to help as much as possible and like people to not have problems or issues and everything work smoothly without any acri-sparky. I only ask people to do a designated battery as it's not a good idea not to run any accessory off of the start battery. Here are some pics the backup is at 20ft in 75% dark. Again any questions I can answer I really do like this stuff so don't be shy and thanks for the nice comments and interest I really do appreciate it!
I did also add a pic of my 700-4 that I did do pods. The pods worked good however they didn't have as good a pattern,were harder on the eye,snagged things sometimes and didn't always work with accessories. I placed two in the back and two on the sides they were also hooked up to reverse. The only pods I'm running now are flush mount installed into the lower bumper shrouds everything this time everything's super flush and protected better because we spend all of out time in the brush and hate getting things broken. If you look at the photos the 1000 is much better lit up with half the wattage, much more efficient. I really gave up on pods even the good ones watt for watt just don't do great except for more of a distance thing which isn't what you want for backup or camp lighting and the juice required takes from other things. In our situation we've found better replacements not to mention so much easier to install and place where needed you're not near as restricted.
What material did you use on your roof? I did use rock chip spray which help pretty good but I still need to be able to pressure wash the inside.

 

[BrophyCreek]

View attachment 12600
Well I apologize I wrote 14" I'll edit it's actually 12 but still 168watt. Here's the link. This is an incredible light bar and goes in really well! You will have to take off the bumper to install and adjust but really not a big deal it's 6 bolts all of which easy to get at. The lower lip that you mount to has to be bent down a little till it's flat then goes in like clockwork. The mounts on these are very solid great light. I'd suggest using a plug on this light so you could take bumper or light off if needed I simply used CB power connector like 5bucks. Again sorry for the mix up there were a lot of lights I tried and looked at. Thank you so much[/QUOTE

Did you drill holes in the plate to mount the light bar that you have right above the winch fair lead? I have the brush guard rather than the stock bumper and can't find a clamp that is compact enough to mount to the tube right above it, so that leaves me with the plate at the bottom of the pocket. Here is the light I picked up.
Auxbeam® 12" 72W CREE LED Work Light Bar 7200lm Combo Beams 24pcs 3W Cree Chips Waterproof for Jeep off road Van Camper Wagon ATV AWD SUV 4WD 4x4 Pickup Van Off-road



I know it's prob not going to be the brightest, but it was a cheap way to start adding lights. I also picked up 2- 4" light s for back up lights.

 

[CumminsPusher]

Don't mistake it 72w will still help tremendously. Cree is a very good brand. I believe it's the same hole size. The light should look just slightly to tall 1/4 in? if it's like mine don't worry. I drilled the bottom holes first then folded lower lip inward till it was flat and it went right in. You have to take bumper off to install. Adjust with bumper loose as it's very hard to do later. I would highly suggest putting a plug on the light in case you have winch to change cables or any other time you're in there

 

[BrophyCreek]

Don't mistake it 72w will still help tremendously. Cree is a very good brand. I believe it's the same hole size. The light should look just slightly to tall 1/4 in? if it's like mine don't worry. I drilled the bottom holes first then folded lower lip inward till it was flat and it went right in. You have to take bumper off to install. Adjust with bumper loose as it's very hard to do later. I would highly suggest putting a plug on the light in case you have winch to change cables or any other time you're in there

Thanks for the quick reply. Any issues with the powder flaking off when you bent the lip down? Also, how did you bend it? I was thinking of using a large crescent wrench, it has about a 1" wide jaw. Tighten down on the metal and work out side to side from the middle?

 

[CumminsPusher]

Absolutely. The finish stayed good on the outside however on the inside It cracked ever so slightly on the creases I just cleaned that up a bit and touched it up Rustolium is the best at that because of the rust inhibitors I should say also that bent it down a little only at the two points that bolt through not all the way across you don't notice at all and going all the way across is unnecessary. The crescent will work perfectly use tape on bumper with a rag for least problems

 

[ghost]

ugh light after that day.
Have you done anything involving a fresh air blower for the cab?

If you end up adding that blower for the cab, maybe start a thread on it.
It's on my list as well. If I get to it first, I'll start the thread.

 

[BrophyCreek]

Absolutely. The finish stayed good on the outside however on the inside It cracked ever so slightly on the creases I just cleaned that up a bit and touched it up Rustolium is the best at that because of the rust inhibitors I should say also that bent it down a little only at the two points that bolt through not all the way across you don't notice at all and going all the way across is unnecessary. The crescent will work perfectly use tape on bumper with a rag for least problems

Yes, I definitely will pad between the wrench and the lip. I was thinking the same, only bend it down right where the bolts will go through and closer to the center the better to keep away from the joint where the sheet metal meets the tubing. Another quick question: The lights I bought came with brackets for angle adjustment. Curved with slots on both sides, then single bolt goes through that for mounting. Is that basically what you used?

 

[CumminsPusher]

Yes that sounds just like the brackets that came with mine. And I did the same thing about spacing because of the edges.

 

[CumminsPusher]

Really turned into a great spot in there it'll never get banged up