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You got it capn. I'm working on blower 2.0If you end up adding that blower for the cab, maybe start a thread on it.
It's on my list as well. If I get to it first, I'll start the thread.
You got it capn. I'm working on blower 2.0If you end up adding that blower for the cab, maybe start a thread on it.
It's on my list as well. If I get to it first, I'll start the thread.
Well 1.0 was put under the rubber to pull air from the radiator. That worked good for heat, but since I've now logged over 200 miles I realise I don't want heat. I want cool.Where are you pulling air from
Ok you're not messing around I like it! I think if air is redirected you might just have something here! Keep up the good work!Well 1.0 was put under the rubber to pull air from the radiator. That worked good for heat, but since I've now logged over 200 miles I realise I don't want heat. I want cool.
So I re rerouted to under the hood near the open spare battery cavity... and that was just as hot. Both pull lots of humidity from the exhaust steam problem.
I'm now going to drop the whole thing down to the access panel in middle seat feetwell. Going to plumb that up in front of radiator somehow, or possibly duct to under hood but cut hole and louver it so it's fresh air.using a 130 cfm inline bilge fan, though I want to upgrade to a 400 cfm blower with an inline heater core with a manual choke on and off. Heat or fresh air on demand!
I looked into ac. Give up on that fantasy.
Well 1.0 was put under the rubber to pull air from the radiator. That worked good for heat, but since I've now logged over 200 miles I realise I don't want heat. I want cool.
So I re rerouted to under the hood near the open spare battery cavity... and that was just as hot. Both pull lots of humidity from the exhaust steam problem.
I'm now going to drop the whole thing down to the access panel in middle seat feetwell. Going to plumb that up in front of radiator somehow, or possibly duct to under hood but cut hole and louver it so it's fresh air.using a 130 cfm inline bilge fan, though I want to upgrade to a 400 cfm blower with an inline heater core with a manual choke on and off. Heat or fresh air on demand!
I looked into ac. Give up on that fantasy.
Made brackets but they are very easy. Mine is 50 but 52 will go there even better and will suggest that as it will more directly fit. It's the best spot we've had by far for that light bar. Curved will be way more compact against the windshield and gives you so much better light. If you were to need I could send you paper cutout of the brackets or..for your 52 curved bar, did you make up new brackets or just use the existing ones and drill holes in them?
I can fab something up. I'll let you know how it turns out. If I need I'll ask.Made brackets but they are very easy. Mine is 50 but 52 will go there even better and will suggest that as it will more directly fit. It's the best spot we've had by far for that light bar. Curved will be way more compact against the windshield and gives you so much better light. If you were to need I could send you paper cutout of the brackets or..
It's easy. Do a center brace as well. That big a light bar vibrates and it's irritating. I like it more solid. Don't go over 300 or so watts with factory stator but the light display you'll love!I can fab something up. I'll let you know how it turns out. If I need I'll ask.
What's a stator?It's easy. Do a center brace as well. That big a light bar vibrates and it's irritating. I like it more solid. Don't go over 300 or so watts with factory stator but the light display you'll love!
The curved smokes it! It's nice to see the price has come down close in price. The stator is basically an alternator. Honda doesn't put out as much power as your Polaris did. One of the few things Honda didn't do as well. I had a stator done for my 1000 it's still not not as good as id like it. My 50 is 700watts so I can't run everything but most.What's a stator?
I had the same bar on my polaris for a year and a half and had no problems. That was a straight bar. Excited about the curv.
I was curious on the output of the factory 1000 stator. That increase is impressive in your custom stator! What did it cost you? I must have missed it in your post. One last question...with the dual battery setup and isolator installation did you do that prior to the stator and if so how did your system function at that point? ThanksThe curved smokes it! It's nice to see the price has come down close in price. The stator is basically an alternator. Honda doesn't put out as much power as your Polaris did. One of the few things Honda didn't do as well. I had a stator done for my 1000 it's still not not as good as id like it. My 50 is 700watts so I can't run everything but most.
Can we just buy a polaris part and bolt on?The curved smokes it! It's nice to see the price has come down close in price. The stator is basically an alternator. Honda doesn't put out as much power as your Polaris did. One of the few things Honda didn't do as well. I had a stator done for my 1000 it's still not not as good as id like it. My 50 is 700watts so I can't run everything but most.
No not at all as its internalCan we just buy a polaris part and bolt on?
If I remember right its around 650watts. I had to buy a stator and send it in. It was almost 6 for the stator done. I wouldn't do it again though it wasn't enough output in my eyes for what you pay. I had system done prior and everything was pretty smooth no problem but it would not run the big lightbar at allI was curious on the output of the factory 1000 stator. That increase is impressive in your custom stator! What did it cost you? I must have missed it in your post. One last question...with the dual battery setup and isolator installation did you do that prior to the stator and if so how did your system function at that point? Thanks
You should have someone test your lightbar to see what it really pulls. I bet you would be suprised at what you found.If I remember right its around 650watts. I had to buy a stator and send it in. It was almost 6 for the stator done. I wouldn't do it again though it wasn't enough output in my eyes for what you pay. I had system done prior and everything was pretty smooth no problem but it would not run the big lightbar at all
Still. That's peak. Think of car audio. A 12 inch sub is never going to see its peak.Ours is 100 7watt Phillips LEDs. It's not the 3or5 watts.
Still. That's peak. Think of car audio. A 12 inch sub is never going to see its peak.
Lots of reports say 300w bars only pull 100-150.
Just interesting is all. I'd be interested in knowing.
Your right with LED. I honestly figure ours probably takes around 600. If it were halogens it takes a drastic amounts to start up LED doesn'tStill. That's peak. Think of car audio. A 12 inch sub is never going to see its peak.
Lots of reports say 300w bars only pull 100-150.
Just interesting is all. I'd be interested in knowing.