P1000 Dry weight; overheat

zumper

zumper

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I’ve got a 2016 5 seat deluxe. Does anyone know the dry weight? And, how about what I’d call GVW?
Page 81of my manual says the “Maximum weight capacity” is 1649 pounds; and the “Maximum cargo weight” is 1000. I can’t believe that the 649 difference is weight of the machine.

I’m taking it to the scales so I know how much my accessories weight, but that only tells me something if I know the dry weight.

I’ve had an overheat issue climbing above 8,500 feet elevation, and am trying to analyze my issue. Did it today.
Thanks in advance.
Chuck
 
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Cuoutdoors

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I’ve got a 2016 5 seat deluxe. Does anyone know the dry weight? And, how about what I’d call GVW?
Page 81of my manual says the “Maximum weight capacity” is 1649 pounds; and the “Maximum cargo weight” is 1000. I can’t believe that the 649 difference is weight of the machine.

I’m taking it to the scales so I know how much my accessories weight, but that only tells me something if know what if I know the dry weight.

I’ve had an overheat issue climbing above 8,500 feet elevation, and am trying to analyze my issue. Did it today.
Thanks in advance.
Chuck

Weight capacity is total weight added to the machine. Capacity=Cargo + people. You can put 1000 lbs in the bed and have 649lbs for people in the front seat.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
zumper

zumper

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Weight capacity is total weight added to the machine. Capacity=Cargo + people. You can put 1000 lbs in the bed and have 649lbs for people in the front seat.

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
That’s helpful, but what is dry weight?
 
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Cuoutdoors

Cuoutdoors

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Sounds about right. So your GVW is about 3500lbs when utilizing the full capacity

Sent from my SM-G950U using Tapatalk
 
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zumper

zumper

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Until I hit the scale I’ll guess my rig’s weight is about 3,000#. About 60F ambient climbing steeply and ending at about 8,700’, temp light came on and it boils over. Fan is operating properly. That climb with that load at that altitude is a whole lot of work, so I guess I shouldn’t be surprised it got hot. Same thing happened to me last year with less load, about 50F, but topping 9,000’.

I never did install the bilge blower I bought to address the passenger heat problem. I wonder if it would help with my problem?

Is there an oil cooler kit available for this platform?
 
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outlawhondarider

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Until I hit the scale I’ll guess my rig’s weight is about 3,000#. About 60F ambient climbing steeply and ending at about 8,700’, temp light came on and it boils over. Fan is operating properly. That climb with that load at that altitude is a whole lot of work, so I guess I shouldn’t be surprised it got hot. Same thing happened to me last year with less load, about 50F, but topping 9,000’.

I never did install the bilge blower I bought to address the passenger heat problem. I wonder if it would help with my problem?

Is there an oil cooler kit available for this platform?


The quote below came from a vette website, but applies to most internal combustion engines-
"Higher elevation = lower mass air flow (for a given volume, less air molecules) = less mass to carry away the heat"

I don't think the bilge blower will affect the engine operating temperature enough to make a difference. I'm also assuming you are travelling at low speeds and the fan is doing all the work, vs high speed airflow thru radiator, that is a tough environment. I'm in Texas where 9 months of the year its about 170 degrees and there is always a chance of overheating. My son and i both have P1k's and from the factory it seemed like they were both filled with 100% coolant and no water. I drained the overflow tank and some of the radiator and refilled with distilled water and Redline Water Wetter. I have used the Water Wetter in 2 and 4 stroke dirt bikes, ATV's, lawnmowers, my personal vehicles and it is safe and very effective.

Be sure your radiator fins are straight and clean and worst case scenario you might need a HD radiator and/or heavy duty fan,

just my .02
 
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DG Rider

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Have you tried a new radiator cap, or had yours tested?

Remember, the cooling system is pressurized to raise the boiling point of the coolant beyond what the system will be exposed to. Your cap may build pressure, but if it isn't building as much as intended, it may not have enough buffer to cover this.

This should really be no problem when everything is right. I've gone from <3K' to over 9K in a 700 and never even got over 2 bars on the temp gauge. Course, the 700 makes much less heat than a 1000...
 
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zumper

zumper

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The quote below came from a vette website, but applies to most internal combustion engines-
"Higher elevation = lower mass air flow (for a given volume, less air molecules) = less mass to carry away the heat"

I don't think the bilge blower will affect the engine operating temperature enough to make a difference. I'm also assuming you are travelling at low speeds and the fan is doing all the work, vs high speed airflow thru radiator, that is a tough environment. I'm in Texas where 9 months of the year its about 170 degrees and there is always a chance of overheating. My son and i both have P1k's and from the factory it seemed like they were both filled with 100% coolant and no water. I drained the overflow tank and some of the radiator and refilled with distilled water and Redline Water Wetter. I have used the Water Wetter in 2 and 4 stroke dirt bikes, ATV's, lawnmowers, my personal vehicles and it is safe and very effective.

Be sure your radiator fins are straight and clean and worst case scenario you might need a HD radiator and/or heavy duty fan,

just my .02
Thanks for the .02. Are you aware of an HD fan or radiator for these rigs? Yes, fairly low speed, 7-8 mph, maybe.
I can run around the valley floors all day at 5,000 feet and 100 degrees and never pass 2bars. Even steeper climbs at lower elevation don’t seem a problem.
I’m going to experiment with climbing a bit slower, like the Tortoise, and also poke around for an oil cooler. You’re probably right about the blower, but moving the heat is what it’s all about, and the blower has been looking at me for a year, just sitting in the box getting dusty.
 
zumper

zumper

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Have you tried a new radiator cap, or had yours tested?

Remember, the cooling system is pressurized to raise the boiling point of the coolant beyond what the system will be exposed to. Your cap may build pressure, but if it isn't building as much as intended, it may not have enough buffer to cover this.

This should really be no problem when everything is right. I've gone from <3K' to over 9K in a 700 and never even got over 2 bars on the temp gauge. Course, the 700 makes much less heat than a 1000...
Thanks for the thought. It could be the cap, but it’s small and I don’t have a way to test it. My pal has a 700 as well, and doesn’t have the problem. And, the light comes on and the gauge pegs before it boils over, so it’s at least holding pressure up to that temperature.
Chuck
 
DG Rider

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Thanks for the thought. It could be the cap, but it’s small and I don’t have a way to test it. My pal has a 700 as well, and doesn’t have the problem. And, the light comes on and the gauge pegs before it boils over, so it’s at least holding pressure up to that temperature.
Chuck
Looks like the cap is $25 or less and fits a variety of Honda's. 1.1 bar (15.95 PSI).
 
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0860silverado

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Hate to state the obvious but have you "burped" the cooling system? A large percentage of these rigs are delivered without any attention to quality control and several reports have surfaced of air pockets trapped in the cooling system. I'd hate to think Honda released a machine that can't handle high altitudes.
 
Gator

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I think you need to find someone else with a 1000, and ride up there with them. I don't think you should be overheating.
Burping the cooling system and Checking the radiator cap are both good suggestions. How about your fan? Is it coming on? Is it coming on soon enough?

I could be wrong. I live at sea level. I can't even breath above 8000 feet.
 

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