P500 Dual battery

[JCart]

Ok, I do have more questions. The configuration of the housings for both the switch and the m-ARC are a bit confusing. I can see how they designed the two halves of the housing to be fastened together but not mounted to a surface??? Also, did you use the optional start isolation wire (marked SI on the back of the m-ARC), and if so, how did you connect it to the ignition switch. And did you use the optional switch for no current draw when in storage (marked GND on the back of the m-ARC). Both have blade connectors for use with 16 awg wire. And if you did use the latter, what type of switch did you use? Thanks jrc!

I mounted mine side by side onto aluminum angle, only the switch face and M-ARC face show on front side of plate, so I didn't use the other bits of plastic. I drilled the large holes using plumbers saw on drill press, then bolted the two onto the aluminum angle.

Yes I used the optional start isolation wire. As I recall I tapped into the ignition switch harness. I'll have to check but think I unhooked the switch (keyed ignition switch) from dash. Iirc actually cut the ignition harness (in effort to make connection H2O proof) wire then using a butt connector spliced in the trigger wire also used heat shrink tube and dialectric grease to keep moisture out.

Did not use the no current draw storage circuit, as mine never sits that long...

Dropbox - underhood 1.jpg
On the passenger side of aluminum angle (can't really see it), is winch relay, then Blue Sea main switch, M-ACR, then I left a blank for other stuff.

Dropbox - underhood 2.jpg
Shows how I mounted switches to plate. Be careful not to over tighten when bolting to plate as the mount faces are slightly beveled, I used stainless fasteners with nylock nuts.

Have included full wiring circuit schematic in pdf format, I should have tapped the red/yellow wire to the starter for the impulse on the start isolation circuit.
Dropbox - 500sxswiringdiagram.pdf

Cheers,

jrc

 

[Admin]

 

[Montecresto]

I mounted mine side by side onto aluminum angle, only the switch face and M-ARC face show on front side of plate, so I didn't use the other bits of plastic. I drilled the large holes using plumbers saw on drill press, then bolted the two onto the aluminum angle.

Yes I used the optional start isolation wire. As I recall I tapped into the ignition switch harness. I'll have to check but think I unhooked the switch (keyed ignition switch) from dash. Iirc actually cut the ignition harness (in effort to make connection H2O proof) wire then using a butt connector spliced in the trigger wire also used heat shrink tube and dialectric grease to keep moisture out.

Did not use the no current draw storage circuit, as mine never sits that long...

Dropbox - underhood 1.jpg
On the passenger side of aluminum angle (can't really see it), is winch relay, then Blue Sea main switch, M-ACR, then I left a blank for other stuff.

Dropbox - underhood 2.jpg
Shows how I mounted switches to plate. Be careful not to over tighten when bolting to plate as the mount faces are slightly beveled, I used stainless fasteners with nylock nuts.

Have included full wiring circuit schematic in pdf format, I should have tapped the red/yellow wire to the starter for the impulse on the start isolation circuit.
Dropbox - 500sxswiringdiagram.pdf

Cheers,

jrc

Nice, very clean. Would you happen to know whether or not one of the Honda wiring harness accessories could be used for the start isolater wire?? And thanks for all your help. I'm still waiting for more parts to arrive, including the battery. I may well have additional questions if you're willing to continue responding. Thanks jrc.

 

[JCart]

Nice, very clean. Would you happen to know whether or not one of the Honda wiring harness accessories could be used for the for the start isolater wire?? And thanks for all your help. I'm still waiting for more parts to arrive, including the battery. I may well have additional questions if you're willing to continue responding. Thanks jrc.

When I set mine up wondered that too. I read and re-read the install directions several times (ok many times...Hahahaa) as it was confusing plus I'd never installed one of these before and as you know it's not specific to our P500.

The answer is no and here is why.... This is an excerpt from install directions:

m-ACR optional connection:

To enable start isolation:
• Connect a wire from the quick connect terminal marked SI (starting isolation) to the terminal or wire running from the start key switch to the starter solenoid (see back for wiring diagram). This connection can be made at the start key switch or at the starter solenoid, but must be to the line that is positive only when cranking. Connection to a line that is positive while the engine is normally running will prevent the charging relay from working properly.

Be happy to assist, that's what sites like this are for (I think), might not be the correct answer heh heh, but at least it's an answer. If I can help fire away no worries.

Cheers,

jrc

 

[Montecresto]

When I set mine up wondered that too. I read and re-read the install directions several times (ok many times...Hahahaa) as it was confusing plus I'd never installed one of these before and as you know it's not specific to our P500.

The answer is no and here is why.... This is an excerpt from install directions:

m-ACR optional connection:

To enable start isolation:
• Connect a wire from the quick connect terminal marked SI (starting isolation) to the terminal or wire running from the start key switch to the starter solenoid (see back for wiring diagram). This connection can be made at the start key switch or at the starter solenoid, but must be to the line that is positive only when cranking. Connection to a line that is positive while the engine is normally running will prevent the charging relay from working properly.

Be happy to assist, that's what sites like this are for (I think), might not be the correct answer heh heh, but at least it's an answer. If I can help fire away no worries.

Cheers,

jrc

I know that in house wiring there can be some variations in the way Romex is run with the same results and so I'm thinking that may be the case here. You hooked yours all up and it's working, so it seems to me that if I hook mine the same that it should work too. This needs a page on it somewhere that one could down load, specific to the P-500 lol. Now I need to figure out how I will determine the line which is hot only when cranking???? Should be able to find that at Honda/Google. I'm reading my install instructions repeatedly, too! Thanks man.

 

[JCart]

If you refer to the wiring schematic I included in post # 21 bottom paragraph, you'll see it will be the yellow wire with red tracer on it, that's the wire that has positive power only when you activate the ignition to trigger starter. This Y/Red is the one you need to tap into and it runs from the ignition switch (labeled with ST at switch on schematic), to a diode then to starter relay. I wanted a short lead to the m-acr as well as out of most water and mud, therefore tapped into the circuit just behind the ignition key high up in the dash.

jrc

 

[Montecresto]

If you refer to the wiring schematic I included in post # 21 bottom paragraph, you'll see it will be the yellow wire with red tracer on it, that's the wire that has positive power only when you activate the ignition to trigger starter. This Y/Red is the one you need to tap into and it runs from the ignition switch (labeled with ST at switch on schematic), to a diode then to starter relay. I wanted a short lead to the m-acr as well as out of most water and mud, therefore tapped into the circuit just behind the ignition key high up in the dash.

jrc

Ok, I found the yellow/red wire in the diagram in your Dropbox. I'll now see if I can find it on my machine. Again, thank you.

 

[Montecresto]

If you refer to the wiring schematic I included in post # 21 bottom paragraph, you'll see it will be the yellow wire with red tracer on it, that's the wire that has positive power only when you activate the ignition to trigger starter. This Y/Red is the one you need to tap into and it runs from the ignition switch (labeled with ST at switch on schematic), to a diode then to starter relay. I wanted a short lead to the m-acr as well as out of most water and mud, therefore tapped into the circuit just behind the ignition key high up in the dash.

jrc

Ok, so I've made up all my cables and routed them from the stock battery to the location of the switch and isolater. Used the solder method on those large cable ends and then shrink wrap, LOVELY! I've fashioned a bracket similar to yours to mount the switch/isolater to. I'm still waiting on the battery to arrive to make everything up. But I must say that I'm rather intimidated with taping into the Y/R wire on the ignition switch.

 

[JCart]

Ok, so I've made up all my cables and routed them from the stock battery to the location of the switch and isolater. Used the solder method on those large cable ends and then shrink wrap, LOVELY! I've fashioned a bracket similar to yours to mount the switch/isolater to. I'm still waiting on the battery to arrive to make everything up. But I must say that I'm rather intimidated with taping into the Y/R wire on the ignition switch.

Intimidated as it might not work or ?
I guess you could run a wire from the starter solinoid (at the starter), I was thinking of doing that at the time, as I was reluctant to cut, strip insulation on the Y/R too. As I was concerned about having a waterproof seal I opted to use a none insulated butt connector. So ended up cutting the Y/R and using a butt connector just oversized to fit the tap wire, prior to connection I slid on a good section heat shrink tube over the Y/R and slid over the joint after reconnecting. Also used dialectric grease in the butt connections and put a layer of tape over heat shrink as well as accordion tube over that.... Again as it high up under the dash it seems to stay clear of mud, water and other keerap.

jrc

 

[Montecresto]

Intimidated as it might not work or ?
I guess you could run a wire from the starter solinoid (at the starter), I was thinking of doing that at the time, as I was reluctant to cut, strip insulation on the Y/R too. As I was concerned about having a waterproof seal I opted to use a none insulated butt connector. So ended up cutting the Y/R and using a butt connector just oversized to fit the tap wire, prior to connection I slid on a good section heat shrink tube over the Y/R and slid over the joint after reconnecting. Also used dialectric grease in the butt connections and put a layer of tape over heat shrink as well as accordion tube over that.... Again as it high up under the dash it seems to stay clear of mud, water and other keerap.

jrc

Not that it might not work, I know it will work, you did it. I'm just uncertain of my ability to do so successfully. If it can be done from the solenoid, I believe I'll do that. Do you know which stud on solenoid would be the appropriate one?

 

[JCart]

Not that it might not work, I know it will work, you did it. I'm just uncertain of my ability to do so successfully. If it can be done from the solenoid, I believe I'll do that. Do you know which stud on solenoid would be the appropriate one?

When I look at the wire harness schematic there is only one black wire running to the starter from starter relay switch (SRS), the other black wire is from battery to SRS and it is activated by the Y/R and the Brake peddle (brake inhibitor circuit) must be depressed Y/G combined relay. Meaning, when the ignition key is rotated to start, and brake peddle is pressed this powers the starter relay switch (closes points) and puts power to the black starter wire from battery. So I would think that attaching on the starter Black wire stud (right at starter) would work right? Another option is right at the SRS, however you need to test which black wire of the two black wires has constant power at the SRS. The constant power is direct from battery, and you want to connect to the other stud as that is power only at start, which we need for the SI circuit to work properly. I'll check my shop manual and see if it shows location and black wire orientation with a picture, of starter relay switch (SRS).

In respect to tapping into the Y/R iirc I think I may have undone the actual dash to give me more room, I do remember taking out the digital display. I'll check the manual on that too....Yeesh sorry for my poor memory, I do remember it was over a couple of nights, outside my shop under lights.
Hope the lengthy ramble makes some sense.....

jrc

 

[Montecresto]

When I look at the wire harness schematic there is only one black wire running to the starter (from starter relay) the other black wire is from battery to relay, and it is activated by the Y/R and the Brake peddle (brake inhibitor circuit) must be depressed Y/G combined relay. Meaning, when the ignition key is rotated to start, and brake peddle is pressed this powers the starter relay (closes points) and puts power to the black starter wire from battery. So I would think that attaching on the starter Black wire stud (right at starter) would work right? Or right at the starter solinoid, however you need to test which black wire of the two black wires has constant power at the solinoid. The constant power is direct from battery, and you want to connect to the other stud as that is power only at start, which we need for the SI circuit to work properly. I'll check my shop manual and see if it shows location and black wire orientation with a picture, of starter solinoid.

In respect to tapping into the Y/R iirc I think I may have undone the actual dash to give me more room, I do remember taking out the digital display. I'll check the manual on that too....Yeesh sorry for my poor memory, I do remember it was over a couple of nights, outside my shop under lights.
Hope the lengthy ramble makes some sense.....

jrc

Yep, that makes complete sense. I've got a plan now for the next leg going forward. But I'm not finished with you by any means jrc, lol. And, this thread is becoming a very good guide for others who decide to add a dual battery in the future. Thanks. Btw, would the language of a starter relay and a solenoid be used interchangeably in this?

 

[tjoreo]

I've been stalking this thread for a while and I just want to thank you guys for all the info on this. It has answered alot of questions that I have on my own install. I'm hoping to pick up my Add-a-battery kit this weekend and give it a go on my 700. All I can say is just keep posting. Oh and Thanks again.

 

[JCart]

Sorry Monte.... Should have used one name for the starter relay switch (SRS), I've edited my last post. If you take the battery box cover off and looking above the battery you will see a black solid cylinder with two posts on the top of it. This is the starter relay switch. The posts might have rubber covers on them to protect from cross shorting with tools. The post on the right (according to manual), is the one that you will want to attach the SI circuit wire to. To be sure I'd double check, by using a volt meter or wire test light. Post on the left should have constant power direct from battery and therefor right post will be energized when this SRS contacts are closed, via activation of Y/R and Y/G circuits. Id say this might be the better location to attach the SI circuit back to the M-ACR, (if you don't wish to cut stock wire harness) as you'll have the battery cover and skid off anyways, plus it's well protected.

I'll try to post pix from manual after work today.
Link added Feb 19, 2016.
Dropbox - P5 starter relay switch.jpeg

cheers,
jrc

 

[Montecresto]

Sorry Monte.... Should have used one name for the starter solinoid, I've edited my last post. If you take the battery box cover off and looking above the battery you will see a black solid cylinder with two posts on the top of it. This is the starter solinoid. The posts might have rubber covers on them to protect from cross shorting with tools. The post on the right (according to manual), is the one that you will want to attach the SI circuit wire to. To be sure I'd double check, by using a volt meter or wire test light. Post on the left should have constant power direct from battery and therefor right post will be energized when this start solinoid contacts are closed, via activation of Y/R and Y/G circuits. Id say this might be the better location to attach the SI circuit back to the M-ACR, (if you don't wish to cut stock wire harness) as you'll have the battery cover and skid off anyways, plus it's well protected.

I'll try to post pix from manual after work today.

cheers,
jrc

Awesome, thanks again.

 

[JCart]

Dropbox - P5 starter relay switch.jpeg
Link to Starter relay switch image in shop manual indicating that item #6 the right post, is the correct one to attach SI circuit to.

jrc

 

[Montecresto]

Dropbox - P5 battery solinoid.jpeg
Link to battery solinoid photo in shop manual showing B Solinoid posts.

jrc

Thank you. It would appear to me that post #6 is the point at which I need to connect the wire from the SI blade on the m-ACR??? Again it appears you're using solenoid and the shop manual is saying starter relay, I assume they are one in the same?

 

[JCart]

Thank you. It would appear to me that post #6 is the point at which I need to connect the wire from the SI blade on the m-ACR??? Again it appears you're using solenoid and the shop manual is saying starter relay, I assume they are one in the same?

Yes you are correct, in fact they call it a starter relay switch which it is. And yes the right post, (in the image) referred to as #6, is the post to attach the SI circuit to. Apologies for the confusion on the starter relay switch. Thing is I didn't look into the actual manual until the night prior to posting the pix, then realized I was calling it starter solenoid etc., I was like Krap! So a test to see who is paying attention . I'll edit my posts back aways to be consistent again my apologies, lesson learned for me is to look in manul first.

Also changed the link label to be consistent too....
Dropbox - P5 starter relay switch.jpeg

 

[Montecresto]

Yes you are correct, in fact they call it a starter relay switch which it is. And yes the right post, (in the image) referred to as #6, is the post to attach the SI circuit to. Apologies for the confusion on the starter relay switch. Thing is I didn't look into the actual manual until the night prior to posting the pix, then realized I was calling it starter solenoid etc., I was like Krap! So a test to see who is paying attention . I'll edit my posts back aways to be consistent again my apologies, lesson learned for me is to look in manul first.

Also changed the link label to be consistent too....
Dropbox - P5 starter relay switch.jpeg

Awesome, thanks buddy, I'm seeing light at the end of this tunnel. I'll let you know if I have any further questions and or when I have successful completion!!

 

[JCart]

Awesome, thanks buddy, I'm seeing light at the end of this tunnel. I'll let you know if I have any further questions and or when I have successful completion!!

No problem take some pix and post when you get a moment. Where are you hooking the winch circuits into?

jrc

 

[Montecresto]

No problem take some pix and post when you get a moment. Where are you hooking the winch circuits into?

jrc

I used the Honda sub harness and then the main cables to the winch solenoid are coming from the start (OEM/stock battery) for + and the negative cable is coming from a ground bar that I installed under the hood which is tied back to the stock battery negative post. So for sure I will post picks once it's all completed, which may be several days as unfortunately, fun as it is, I cannot afford the P-500 build to be my primary occupation.