P1000 enclosed trailer

[Smitty335]

actually it’s a Jubilee. It’s a project I’m working on with my nephews. It was stuck in two gears. The tranny is now unstuck but there’s a problem in the pumpkin that is next area of attack. Engine runs. Will fix rear soon and paint in spring for parades and acreage work.

My 518N has 2500 hours on it after buying it with 1500 hours and 8 years ago, use it for mowing, blading the drive way and tilling the garden.

 

[Plumber32]

My 518N has 2500 hours on it after buying it with 1500 hours and 8 years ago, use it for mowing, blading the drive way and tilling the garden.

What model of enclosed trailer is that?

 

[Smitty335]

What model of enclosed trailer is that?

It's 8 footer with a Alien sun shield! HA!

 

[Leo-1950_69]

factory you can get away with a 7’ height door opening which is 6” extra added to the trailer, if you start adding tires and lift you’ll need to measure the machine and add height accordingly.

An 8-8.5’ wide is going to be best unless you’re a spry youngster and can climb out the back of the machine.

I have a deposit on one at the moment myself.

Last spring I bought a Stealth Cargo trailer for my Pioneer 1000 which has the Honda hardtop. If I remember right the trailer is 8 by 16,not including the hitch and tongue, it seems to work great, I have about two inches of clearance above the roof and door opening. I would recommend the wider trailer as when you drive it in, you can get the doors far enough open to get out! 16 feet of floor is just right to get the tie downs properly hooked up and allow you storage for gas cans etc up front. Mine also has lights , two of them as its pretty dark in there with no windows. Inside walls are also nice to have but I wouldn't cover the ceiling as aluminum sweats , mine does, at least the ceiling does. Right now its winter here in Montana so the Pioneer stays in the trailer as its a perfect garage. I have been shoveling off the roof occasionally as here it gets so heavy it will cave about any roof that's made, this roof is on 16 inch centers but I wouldn't walk on it. The trailer is rated to haul a small car, door is very heavy and well supported by the hinge, and has several rubber blocks to bear the weight with a flapper to unfold to allow you to drive on the door without scuffing up the edge. I put blocks under the rear corners so the trailer doesn't tip when loading. Could have gotten jacks installed there in the corners but then there is the risk of scraping them on curbs. I moved the hitch from the front of the tongue to rear of the tongue so I can drop my tailgate without trouble. Rewired the brake battery so it uses the interior lights when your not towing. No harm in that as long you don't leave the lights on and kill your breakaway battery.

 

[saw1]

Last spring I bought a Stealth Cargo trailer for my Pioneer 1000 which has the Honda hardtop. If I remember right the trailer is 8 by 16,not including the hitch and tongue, it seems to work great, I have about two inches of clearance above the roof and door opening. I would recommend the wider trailer as when you drive it in, you can get the doors far enough open to get out! 16 feet of floor is just right to get the tie downs properly hooked up and allow you storage for gas cans etc up front. Mine also has lights , two of them as its pretty dark in there with no windows. Inside walls are also nice to have but I wouldn't cover the ceiling as aluminum sweats , mine does, at least the ceiling does. Right now its winter here in Montana so the Pioneer stays in the trailer as its a perfect garage. I have been shoveling off the roof occasionally as here it gets so heavy it will cave about any roof that's made, this roof is on 16 inch centers but I wouldn't walk on it. The trailer is rated to haul a small car, door is very heavy and well supported by the hinge, and has several rubber blocks to bear the weight with a flapper to unfold to allow you to drive on the door without scuffing up the edge. I put blocks under the rear corners so the trailer doesn't tip when loading. Could have gotten jacks installed there in the corners but then there is the risk of scraping them on curbs. I moved the hitch from the front of the tongue to rear of the tongue so I can drop my tailgate without trouble. Rewired the brake battery so it uses the interior lights when your not towing. No harm in that as long you don't leave the lights on and kill your breakaway battery.

Last summer I had a custom Stealth V-nose 7.5x16, enclosed trailer built in Bonner Montana ( ALCOM factory) and delivered to northern Nevada. I have a 2018 Pioneer 1000-5. A few of the things that I had it built with: 6 inch added interior height, extended tongue, moved the jack back 6 inches so I could open the truck tailgate, had the trailer fully insulated, white vinyl walls and ceiling, wired for 30 amp external power, 8 LED ceiling lights plus 2 - 4ft 110 lights, 3 -110 outlets plus USB connections, coin rubber flooring with recessed E track for wheel tie downs for the UTV, it also has 4 recessed D-rings. I had 2 escape windows added, one on each side. Spread axles for weight distribution and aluminum wheels. the clearance is tight but I am able to get in and out of the Honda ok. This trailer was purchased to use for extended out of state trips (security) and a shelter to camp in if necessary. It is also a rolling garage to keep the Honda in. I have a flatbed trailer to use for short day trips. There are a few things that are on the list to do on the enclosed trailer, seems there is always something to add or modify.