P700 EPS recall done + fuel pump. Now it dies when driving.

FlipKing

FlipKing

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May 17, 2020
139
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Georgia
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  1. 700-4
Mine has been dying on me similar to what you describe but only after the machine has been used to long periods of time and is pretty hot(not temp gauge wise, just 90+degrees outside wise). After it cools down it behaves again for a while.
 
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Slackjaw

Slackjaw

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Feb 11, 2020
277
452
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Durham NC
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  1. 700-2
Still not fixed. I took video on Saturday.
Would love to post it here, can anyone help with that? They are short.
I would email the vids to anyone who can post.
 
DG Rider

DG Rider

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  1. 700-2
Still not fixed. I took video on Saturday.
Would love to post it here, can anyone help with that? They are short.
I would email the vids to anyone who can post.
Do you have YouTube account? You'll have to upload it and link it.
 
H

HondaTech

Guest
This definitely looks like the unit looses all electrical power for a split second.

If thr fuel pump quit, it would only display the oil light, since the engine isnt running and providing oil pressure.

The dash illuminating all the lights make me think the entite system is losing power directly from the battery. I dont have my laptop with me to look at the wiring diagram but the flow of electricity is being interrupted for a split second somewhere.
 
DG Rider

DG Rider

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  1. 700-2
This definitely looks like the unit looses all electrical power for a split second.

If thr fuel pump quit, it would only display the oil light, since the engine isnt running and providing oil pressure.

The dash illuminating all the lights make me think the entite system is losing power directly from the battery. I dont have my laptop with me to look at the wiring diagram but the flow of electricity is being interrupted for a split second somewhere.
^^^ what he said.

I thought I had mentioned this with the "Christmas tree" on here, but I guess it was another post.

Also Double check those batt terminals again and everything near it, since it was taken out. There is also a plug there. Don't know what it feeds, but check it and make sure it's plugged in. Fiddle (wiggle) with the ignition switch and see if you get a pattern.
 
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Slackjaw

Slackjaw

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Feb 11, 2020
277
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Durham NC
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  1. 700-2
Comments on the two vids that may help with potential leads:

In one video, I'm driving forward, get "Christmas tree lights" and immediate stall.
No sputter or any warning.

Second video is in Neutral, I'm pulsing the gas petal slowly. Same exact Christmas tree, but it doesn't stall out. Engine never missed a beat.

So we can assume that the gear position makes a difference in the outcome.
In D it stalls out, in N it stays running.
 
Brmcg324

Brmcg324

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Aug 17, 2020
51
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SW Ohio
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  1. 500
I would be checking voltage from the battery with engine off, engine on, while shifting gears to rule out battery problem or engine alternator / generator /charging voltage. Trying to rule out undervoltage problems. Loose negative wires or ground wires hidden behind the battery is a suspect. Also, are the lights coming on exactly the same lights as with turning the ignition key on? Think about reseating or pushing in on all of the fuses in the fuse box, and pressing on every electrical connector you can see, possibly one loosened connection somewhere. Also I would consider adding a temporary extra ground from the battery negative to the metal frame, as with a jumper cable, black wire, alligator clamp-on lead. This would need to be done very carefully to not short out anything by accident. See if an extra ground wire makes any difference.
My only reference is a P500 but the area around the battery is really small and low to the ground, hard to work in there.
 
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DG Rider

DG Rider

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Casa Grande, AZ
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  1. 700-2
Comments on the two vids that may help with potential leads:

In one video, I'm driving forward, get "Christmas tree lights" and immediate stall.
No sputter or any warning.

Second video is in Neutral, I'm pulsing the gas petal slowly. Same exact Christmas tree, but it doesn't stall out. Engine never missed a beat.

So we can assume that the gear position makes a difference in the outcome.
In D it stalls out, in N it stays running.
This might...MIGHT be something with the start in gear feature...dunno for sure (never tried). Try the first situation again with the brakes pressed enough to trip the lights (if possible).
 
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Glock21user

Glock21user

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  1. 700-4
Could it be wiring from the ignition key switch? Loose or a short.
2nd the key switch issue or possibly a shorted or pulled wire in that circuit.
A buddy has one and his key switch went bad of all things and it would randomly shut off.
 
Brmcg324

Brmcg324

Active Member
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Aug 17, 2020
51
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33
SW Ohio
Ownership

  1. 500
AEC37976 FF01 41B7 A5C8 A1A980A8CB3C3CD2090C 1ED9 473C 85BB B05AC91CC105

This is from the P500 after 2017. I do not see a diagram from the 700, hopefully it is similar.

Ignition switch has multiple wires to fuses and relays. I have a screen shot of left hand side and right hand side of the diagram. The ignition switch goes through fuses and wires to fuel pump relay and self management relay (?).

All of these connections are opportunities for a loose connection that act like the ignition switch cutting off. Could be a relay not seated into a connector. Could be a loose fuse

We would guess it’s something not tight after the fuel pump was replaced, must be connected enough to run ok sometimes and then loose enough to just cut in and out at random.


The area of the fuel pump, battery, and fuse box is what was taken apart by the dealer and put back together. They really do not want to take it all apart to reseat all the connections.

That is my guess, along with others suggesting the ignition switch.

Hope it helps. I do electrical troubleshooting of industrial machinery all day, every day.
 
Slackjaw

Slackjaw

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Feb 11, 2020
277
452
63
Durham NC
Ownership

  1. 700-2
Dropped it off at the dealership today.
3rd time at this shop, 5 times prior at a local shop.
I told them I won't be picking it up without hardware being replaced and a guarantee it's repaired.
Sucks to go hardline but I've hauled this thing 700 miles so far only to dealerships for repair.
Never a single trip to ride it.
I've reached my limit.
 
highpocket74

highpocket74

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Jul 2, 2019
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Kinder, Louisiana
www.10-80dirtsports.com
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  1. Other Brand

  2. Talon X
It's hard to find dealerships with good techs. I didn't buy my Talon X2 from my local dealer because I really don't like anyone that works there, and they didn't have what I wanted anyway. Another in state powerhouse dealership 3.5 hours on the other side of state had what I wanted and at a closeout price! My father-in-law took his Talon to local dealership due to shifting issues. Now, he has known these people forever. They told my FIT to shave the plastic shifter plate for better shifting into low!!! Needless to say that didn't solve the problem so he went back to the dealership we both bought from. They not only adjusted the shift cable but showed my FIT how to adjust it himself next time. That incident led me to designed my own shifter plate for Talon and later P1000. No complaints from any customers yet.

So I feel your pain Slack. Our local polaris dealer is the same. They can't fix anything. I used a different small dealership that has excellent techs who can find a problem. They aren't even that far from me. They always fixed my polaris right.

This may not be a problem with Honda's but on polaris the voltage regulators go out often and that screws up ALL KINDS of electrical things. I've had a few of those replaced. Every time we saw different symptoms.
 

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