P700 EPS recall done + fuel pump. Now it dies when driving.

DG Rider

DG Rider

Member: Triple Clutch Club
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  1. 700-2
Screenshot 20211115 134950

$68, comes with 2 keys and easy to change (and subsequently alarming just how easy it would be to drive off with one of these just by buying one).

I don't like loading up the parts cannon and have the tools and knowledge to document the issue if it occurred enough to do so, but mine was so erratic it would have been impractical to do so. So I used an "educated guess" and it appears I got it.
This switch, and the ground wires on the frame behind the gas tank are big causes, along with loose battery cables. Clean/tighten them and do the switch and stop wasting money on a dealer who doesn't give a damn.

If you truly can't or won't do it yourself, I'd Suggest you contact @HondaTech and make arrangements for a road trip.
 
Slackjaw

Slackjaw

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Feb 11, 2020
286
459
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Durham NC
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  1. 700-2
Stalled out two times on first tank back from shop.
Unlike before, it "came out of it" and ran on.
I'm on second tank now. No confidence yet.
Probably never will have any.
 
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DG Rider

DG Rider

Member: Triple Clutch Club
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Aug 14, 2013
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  1. 700-2
Stalled out two times on first tank back from shop.
Unlike before, it "came out of it" and ran on.
I'm on second tank now. No confidence yet.
Probably never will have any.
So nothing has been done since your last post?
 
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FlipKing

FlipKing

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May 17, 2020
139
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Georgia
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  1. 700-4
I went back to Durahmtown and had 0 cut offs. Lol Darndest thing trying to diagnose it.
 
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Dockman

Dockman

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Jul 5, 2020
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Missouri
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Man I feel bad for you. You've had way more patience than I would have. Hope you get it figured out soon,


Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
 
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Slackjaw

Slackjaw

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Feb 11, 2020
286
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63
Durham NC
Ownership

  1. 700-2
It's back on the trailer. Stalling out repeatedly while driving. If I pop it in neutral before it actually dies, it stays running.

ZERO sputter before stalling out. It's behaves like the spark simply stops (like a kill switch).

Bringing it back to Capital in Wake Forest.
They won't be happy to see me.
I am going to contact a lawyer for advice.

Every time I get it back from Capital I find jacked up stuff. Straps not re-installed, bolts missing, push pins half ass installed, loose bolts etc etc.
Attention to detail give a s*** is not something they seem to possess.


PXL 20220110 195056091
 
DG Rider

DG Rider

Member: Triple Clutch Club
Lifetime Member
Aug 14, 2013
9,450
43,071
113
Casa Grande, AZ
Ownership

  1. 700-2
It's back on the trailer. Stalling out repeatedly while driving. If I pop it in neutral before it actually dies, it stays running.

ZERO sputter before stalling out. It's behaves like the spark simply stops (like a kill switch).

Bringing it back to Capital in Wake Forest.
They won't be happy to see me.
I am going to contact a lawyer for advice.

Every time I get it back from Capital I find jacked up stuff. Straps not re-installed, bolts missing, push pins half ass installed, loose bolts etc etc.
Attention to detail give a s*** is not something they seem to possess.


View attachment 313457
I'm sorry to hear it...

Is it still doing the dash thing?
 
WagginTail

WagginTail

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Oct 13, 2020
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I wouldn't take it back to that place if you can help it. I'd try Ron Ayers. If their service department is like their sales department they will serve you well. Extension 704 is for the shop.
Screenshot 20220114 091438 Google
 
Slackjaw

Slackjaw

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Feb 11, 2020
286
459
63
Durham NC
Ownership

  1. 700-2
I'm sorry to hear it...

Is it still doing the dash thing?

It loses spark while driving. No sputter, no lugging. Has to be in Drive & moving but no pattern about speed. Slow or fast, doesn't matter.
If I pop it in neutral before it totally dies then it will stay running. Reminds me of the safety switch on a mower seat. If you sit back down fast enough it doesn't die out.
Dispay reboots everytime.
 
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Mudwisel

Mudwisel

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Nov 23, 2020
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  1. 700-2

  2. 1000-5
Sounds like it could be grounding issue or something shorting to ground while moving
 
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Slackjaw

Slackjaw

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Feb 11, 2020
286
459
63
Durham NC
Ownership

  1. 700-2
Sounds like it could be grounding issue or something shorting to ground while moving
Agreed.
Or a ground wire with a break in it.
Or a bad sensor like a roll over switch or a seatbelt switch.
(Full disclosure, I removed the magnet from the seatbelt receiver.)

It might go 1/4 tank no problem then starts it's BS. Always at the worst time.

Dealership said they found a loose ground last time but played stupid when I asked which one. That really pissed me off since I want to document everything carefully.
It's insane how they have found a way to twist this as it's some fault of mine.
Very hard not to get defensive when they nail me for $400 for a loose ground with a full warranty still in place.
 
DG Rider

DG Rider

Member: Triple Clutch Club
Lifetime Member
Aug 14, 2013
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Casa Grande, AZ
Ownership

  1. 700-2
Agreed.
Or a ground wire with a break in it.
Or a bad sensor like a roll over switch or a seatbelt switch.
(Full disclosure, I removed the magnet from the seatbelt receiver.)

It might go 1/4 tank no problem then starts it's BS. Always at the worst time.

Dealership said they found a loose ground last time but played stupid when I asked which one. That really pissed me off since I want to document everything carefully.
It's insane how they have found a way to twist this as it's some fault of mine.
Very hard not to get defensive when they nail me for $400 for a loose ground with a full warranty still in place.
Is it at the dealer now?

The 700 has like 3 grounds if you include the battery. Anyone that charges $400 to check them should be charged with extortion.

Have you shown them this thread? Specifically, my comments about the ignition switch and the comments about the ground.
If they're doing these things under warranty and not charging you, it's one thing. If you're getting charged for this...It's another. In my opinion, its time you took control of this yourself.

Go to the grounds in front of the right rear wheel. Use a 10 millimeter and remove the bolt that holds them to the frame. Scuff it up withe Sandpaper to make sure it's good bare metal. Do the same with the eyelets...make sure there is no corrosion. Reinstall and hit it with a bit of touch-up paint to prevent rust. Tighten the battery bolts as well. Now drive it.

Of that doesn't fix it, buy the $70 ignition switch from RMATV or somewhere and spend all of 5 minutes replacing it.
 
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Mudwisel

Mudwisel

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Tampa Bay Florida
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  1. 700-2

  2. 1000-5
I was thinking more along the lines of a power source shorting to ground. You know what they say if you cant fix it witha hammer then it is electrical... Electrical issues suck
 
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DG Rider

DG Rider

Member: Triple Clutch Club
Lifetime Member
Aug 14, 2013
9,450
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Casa Grande, AZ
Ownership

  1. 700-2
Well...here's some irony. 4 hours after posting the above, my machine starts doing the dying off again. This is the first time this has happened in probably a thousand miles or a few months or better. I removed the ground out on the trail and tried to scrape it off a bit with a knife and reinstalled it. So we'll see how it goes on the way back to the vehicle. I'm not a fortune teller or a psychic, but I'm seeing a Yamaha visit in the future. Used to buy Hondas to get away from s*** like this, but the longer I own it, the longer I begin to realize that that Honda has lost its edge.
 
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