P1000 Fox shock preload

[BillChestnutt]

I just added Viper springs to my Fox QS3 shocks . I went with 250 front and 300 rear. I’m currently at 1 1/4 preload in the front. That puts me close to the 1/3 sag overall. I was just wondering if going to 1 3/4 is too much preload. Any thoughts??

 

[Robobrainiac]

Preload is going to be up to you and your comfort. 1 3/4 should be fine. At some point it will start to feel stiffer.

 

[BillChestnutt]

Thanks for the rapid response. I’ll post my opinion of ride quality after a few miles.

 

[Remington]

Yup its all up to you. Cant tell you how to set them. Like trying to tell u what size underwear fits best🤣 but yes, the tighter you turn the jam nut the the stiffer the ride.
NoHomo on all of it🥳

 

[ToddACimer]

I just added Viper springs to my Fox QS3 shocks . I went with 250 front and 300 rear. I’m currently at 1 1/4 preload in the front. That puts me close to the 1/3 sag overall. I was just wondering if going to 1 3/4 is too much preload. Any thoughts??

Did you have passengers and your normal payload in the machine when you set the sag? You're probably close but you may need a bit more. I set preload on a day when I was filling the water softener so I had about 450lbs of salt to use as payload and I didn't have to battle my passengers.

 

[BillChestnutt]

I just got back from a test ride at 1 3/4 preload. The ride was definitely stiffer. Will drop down to 1 1/2 tomorrow and call it good for the front. I’m trying to get the best ride and maximum clearance at the same time.

 

[CID]

I just got back from a test ride at 1 3/4 preload. The ride was definitely stiffer. Will drop down to 1 1/2 tomorrow and call it good for the front. I’m trying to get the best ride and maximum clearance at the same time.

Remember that the taller you set it, the sharper your CV angles will be. That's why I'm running the Talon at spec'd ground clearance.

 

[Todd627]

At some point it will start to feel stiffer.

TWSS 😜

 

[ToddACimer]

I just got back from a test ride at 1 3/4 preload. The ride was definitely stiffer. Will drop down to 1 1/2 tomorrow and call it good for the front. I’m trying to get the best ride and maximum clearance at the same time.

I think you'll still want to add weight and try it again. You'll likely lose 1.5-2" of ride height with payload and Passengers. I've kept mine low too.

 

[BillChestnutt]

I’m just trying to get a base line now. I have a 4 day overland trip scheduled in May and will be pulling a small trailer full of camping gear. I know when I attach the trailer things will change but I’ll have a good starting point then.

 

[Dirtstiffs-1000]

I have 350# Viper rear springs over Fox shocks. The OEM were like bad bed springs..
For a Base line, I loaded all my usual s***, including full gas and water cans and tools, then adjusted to 12.5" to 13"(ride height) clearance from the ground to the bottom center of the rear skid plate.. Pretty much the oem ground clearance with stock geometry ( A arms, ect.).

Then I loaded it with passengers, rode one weekend, re checked and ended up backing off the preload tension a bit.
Less than an inch of thread run out on top of the spring.
They are now dialed in with a load and ride pretty dam good, with tons of preload adjustment left for future sag.
Just mine..

 

[BillChestnutt]

I believe I finally have the shock preload where I want it both front and rear. I ended up 1 1/4 in the front and about 27/32 in the rear. When I first started the post I forgot to mention that I have TTC 3 inch lift A arms. I know that changes a lot because of the angle of the CV joints. I’m going to run it like this till I can buy and install 2.0 Rhino axles, they are supposed to have better flexibility. But I just wanted to say Thanks to everyone that responded. That’s what makes this such a great place!

 

[DRZRon1]

Remember that the taller you set it, the sharper your CV angles will be. That's why I'm running the Talon at spec'd ground clearance.

what he said - just set preload at stock ride height

I believe I finally have the shock preload where I want it both front and rear. I ended up 1 1/4 in the front and about 27/32 in the rear. When I first started the post I forgot to mention that I have TTC 3 inch lift A arms. I know that changes a lot because of the angle of the CV joints. I’m going to run it like this till I can buy and install 2.0 Rhino axles, they are supposed to have better flexibility. But I just wanted to say Thanks to everyone that responded. That’s what makes this such a great place!

the important number is "stock ride height" - accounting for lift/tire size/etc.

I see these with the preload cranked up for "lift", and they ride like crap as the springs are compressed

my suggestion is to really research the Chinese made 2.0's, and get the truth, just so many posts of bad experiences with 2.0's and then the machines that have zillions of miles are running stock axles

 

[JACKAL]

Did you have passengers and your normal payload in the machine when you set the sag? You're probably close but you may need a bit more. I set preload on a day when I was filling the water softener so I had about 450lbs of salt to use as payload and I didn't have to battle my passengers.View attachment 421425

Never have I ever seen anyone use 80 lbs of solar salt as a booster seat

 

[BillChestnutt]

I think that’s what everybody means by riding season!!😂

 

[ToddACimer]

Never have I ever seen anyone use 80 lbs of solar salt as a booster seat

I couldn't come up with a cheaper way to put 450 lbs in the machine that wasn't going to complain about it taking too long

 

[NTCPrezJB]

I couldn't come up with a cheaper way to put 450 lbs in the machine that wasn't going to complain about it taking too long

Didn’t want to park beside KFC with a sign that said free fried chicken? Nevermind the salt was probably cheaper.

 

[BillChestnutt]

Can I hijack my own thread? I’ve got a front outer cv boot leaking grease . My question is , after I take everything off the hub except the A arms connections can I just remove the bolts from the lower arm and lift everything out of he way or is it better to take the upper A arm loose?

 

[ToddACimer]

Can I hijack my own thread? I’ve got a front outer cv boot leaking grease . My question is , after I take everything off the hub except the A arms connections can I just remove the bolts from the lower arm and lift everything out of he way or is it better to take the upper A arm loose?

I prefer to take the axle nut off and the lower a-arm. It's easier if you remove the shock and tie rod. I do not like pulling the ball joints apart or fighting the upper a-arm bolts.

Sometimes its worth cleaning the CV boot and re-crimping the clamp on the boot. You likely changed the CV angle and created a bit more heat than previously in the joint. Typically the boots will purge a bit and be fine. It's not a bad idea to plunge the CV several times to move the grease around within the boot and joint.

 

[BillChestnutt]

The adventure continues. I got the front axle out and removed the bands . After popping the CV joint apart I found 2 ball bearings laying in the boot. The cage was busted.New axles are to be delivered tomorrow. Since this was totally unexpected I went with axles from Sixity, anyone have opinions on these.