P500 "I have questions" thread

[trigger]

Any old jack should work as long as you can get under it then raise it high enough. Never used sway control on any of my open trailers, just don't put too much weight behind the axle and it'll pull straight.

 

[Admin]

 

[The Green Goat]

Does the P5/2 have a tilt switch, where is it, and how can I disable it?

 

[Bomersteve35]

2 Questions for trailering peoples:
1> Any recommended jacks for 5x10 utility trailer? Scissor VS bottle? or is a $20 harbor freight scissor jack good enuf?
Have a good one in the truck I can drag over and use if I need to, just looking for one to keep on the trailer toolbox.

2> Anybody put on trailer sway control for these little things? Trailer is max rated at 3000lbs, I might get over 2000 once in a while, but not very often. Was a trucker for like 7 years, so used to hauling bigger stuff, this is the smallest trailer I've ever hauled, lol.

I saw a video a while ago of a guy that had his front tinge jack mounted in a receiver. He would take it off and go back to the axles where he had a receiver sticking out just between both tires. Plugged it in and cranked and lifted both tires off the ground. Simple setup and worked well and you would always have a trailer jack with you. Myself I have a gmc 2500 with camper and trailer behind. My truck rear axle is about 6000 on its own. So ya I have a nice 20ton bottle jack

 

[The Green Goat]

Are the Honda nerf bars compatible with the SSS skid plates? How about with the optional rock sliders on the skid plates?

 

[trigger]

Are the Honda nerf bars compatible with the SSS skid plates? How about with the optional rock sliders on the skid plates?

If by compatible you mean just bolt on? No, the instructions call out cutting a notch even into the factory skid. I had to take an angle grinder to my aluminum rock sliders. Still worth it. 😏

 

[Smitty335]

Any old jack should work as long as you can get under it then raise it high enough. Never used sway control on any of my open trailers, just don't put too much weight behind the axle and it'll pull straight.

I usually just take my shop floor jack, a lot more stable than a small jack.

 

[trigger]

I usually just take my shop floor jack, a lot more stable than a small jack.

Yeah, I've got one in the enclosed trailer. Never carried one on an open trailer though.

 

[lee]

I quit worrying about jacking the trailer when I got one of these (sorry, internet image).

I still have a screw jack for the truck if I need more lift.

 

[Bigtee]

I have an electrical question. I will be running all my accessories (except winch) through the Nilight relays with a positive trigger.

Can I just loop the the power source to all my switches from one power wire and then run individual power wires out to the relays? (#86 below)

This will prevent me from having so many single wires to just trigger the relay. I will be running single power wires to the relays (#30 below). I’m just trying to cut down on the wires coming from the positive bus bar.

 

[The Green Goat]

I would think you would be perfectly fine to daisy chain all the switch wires together. They won't be high current since they are only used to trigger the relay, which will handle the higher current loads. That is essentially what I plan on doing for my other bank of auxiliary switches. For simplicity sake, I will be purchasing, probably 12-16 conductor, tray cable for this purpose. It'll be 12-16 (depends on what I can find) small gauge (probably 22-26awg) wires packed into one cable that will only be used for the switch loads. I think it'll drastically cut down on the wire clutter.

Something like this:

 

[Bigtee]

I would think you would be perfectly fine to daisy chain all the switch wires together. They won't be high current since they are only used to trigger the relay, which will handle the higher current loads. That is essentially what I plan on doing for my other bank of auxiliary switches. For simplicity sake, I will be purchasing, probably 12-16 conductor, tray cable for this purpose. It'll be 12-16 (depends on what I can find) small gauge (probably 22-26awg) wires packed into one cable that will only be used for the switch loads. I think it'll drastically cut down on the wire clutter.

Something like this:
View attachment 266360

That's a good idea, I'll look for one with 8 to 12 wires.

 

[Mudder]

I have an electrical question. I will be running all my accessories (except winch) through the Nilight relays with a positive trigger.

Can I just loop the the power source to all my switches from one power wire and then run individual power wires out to the relays? (#86 below)

This will prevent me from having so many single wires to just trigger the relay. I will be running single power wires to the relays (#30 below). I’m just trying to cut down on the wires coming from the positive bus bar.


View attachment 266355

You should be fine as you are not exceeding the total amps of the one wire rating. I just finished two switched relay circuits on my motorcycle, and had one bad relay that drove me crazy rechecking my wiring.

 

[The Green Goat]

What turn signal/hazard/horn kit are you guys using? Was looking at XTC products, but they're real proud of their product.

Alternatives?

 

[Montecresto]

What turn signal/hazard/horn kit are you guys using? Was looking at XTC products, but they're real proud of their product.

Alternatives?

Turn Pro...

 

[The Green Goat]

Turn Pro...

Purchased. Thanks!

 

[The Green Goat]

Is the factory 1-1/4" hitch strong enough for Tiger Tail duties without bending something? I have a 2" MFG Supply receiver as well, but I'd like to utilize that for a Hornet tire carrier with the TT underneath.

 

[lee]

1 1/4 inch hitch will pull 1000 lb trailer all day long.
So it sounds like it's in the ball park.