P1000 Jackal's P1000-5

[jak9922]

the relay needed for the winch is is 100xs what a relay for lights are at any givin time a winch can draw 100s of amps a light 10ish

 

[Admin]

 

[Smitty335]

Here is a typical winch relay.
View attachment 56516

In this setup below the relay above is in top right corner of below picture. Note the heavy wires I previously mentioned.

View attachment 56517

Mine is very similar.The two open spade connections go to the controls

No relay needed, maybe a 10 amp fuse. Can wire direct to switches. Anything under 20 amp can go to quality rocker switches without a relay.

After I get it wired I think I will leave it outside and see if it catches fire. HA! If I get a light bar, I would think I would need a relay.

 

[JACKAL]

Mine is very similar.The two open spade connections go to the controls

After I get it wired I think I will leave it outside and see if it catches fire. HA! If I get a light bar, I would think I would need a relay.

Well a rule of thumb is if you smell plastic wire insulation burning, it's bad...

 

[Smitty335]

Well a rule of thumb is if you smell plastic wire insulation burning, it's bad...

Thanks for all the help, I think?

 

[Tri2hunt]

Lot of great info with you build.
Thanks

 

[Smitty335]

Thanks for all the help, I think?

Just installed automatic fire suppression system, I think it would have made more since to pay some one to wire Rooster! HA!

 

[Wiggins]

One side done

View attachment 9170

what all did you have to do to yours to go to 30s lift I seen how big and what bout clutches or gearing bout to order new ones for mine just curious

 

[JACKAL]

what all did you have to do to yours to go to 30s lift I seen how big and what bout clutches or gearing bout to order new ones for mine just curious

30's did not work out for me, if you continued reading I had issues and dropped back to 28x10x14 all the way around with just a strongmade lift kit. You can get 30's to work if you replace A arms that go 1.5" forward and back, just wasn't worth it to me.

 

[Ericthered]

Thanks!

One more question, can you send a photo from under the hood showing the double battery setup you mention in your garage? I think thats a good idea, especially with several electrical accessories, winch, etc. I'd like to have a look at the layout for reference, if i may.

That's a sweet ride, evolving into a one hellava Honda. I have to say, I really like the big hoops and lift!! Aarrrrr..

Has anyone thought of adding a "real" battery under the driver's seat? I'm thinking an Optima 12 volt truck battery would guarantee never having an issue. (Replaces little ATV battery)

 

[JACKAL]

Has anyone thought of adding a "real" battery under the driver's seat? I'm thinking an Optima 12 volt truck battery would guarantee never having an issue. (Replaces little ATV battery)

A few have dabbled in the big battery route under drivers seat.

 

[ohanacreek]

A few have dabbled in the big battery route under drivers seat.

Dabbler here, look at the two build threads in my signature.

 

[Jeffro]

I decided to go ahead and try and alternative method of carrying a spare tire, jack, and fuel can by using the Honda bed extender accessory as a platform. The Kolpin bar just wasn't going to work out for me with anyone in back seats. The way I did it still leaves me room for a cooler, etc behind the back two seats.

Mounting, I used two, 2"x 5/16" x 4" Ubolts for the fuel mount and spare carrier with nylock nuts. To get things snug cut 1.25" plastic conduit sections to snap over bed extender tubing wrapping pieces in gorilla tape for grip and finish protection.
In addition to the Bed extender used the Quickshot verticle spare carrier with built-in jack. Got it from RMATV.COM here:
Pro Armor Quickshot Universal Tire and Accessory Vertical Mount | UTV | Rocky Mountain ATV/MC
I also went with the 3 gal rotopax and quick mount also from RMATV.COM.

I mounted everything up and went for a shakedown ride everything stayed put and held up to rough terrain just fine. If you,want full access the bed extender still quick releases with everything still mounted, heavy but it works for me. Here is what the finished product looks like. I will mount my chainsaw on the left opposite of the rotopax, tired of being turned around by downed trees.
View attachment 20127 View attachment 20128
View attachment 20129

Do you still have your spare and rotopax mounted like this? If so, do you still like it and is it holding up well with rough riding? I really like this setup.

 

[JACKAL]

Do you still have your spare and rotopax mounted like this? If so, do you still like it and is it holding up well with rough riding? I really like this setup.

The setup works fine, I did take it off though due to getting in the way of rocks where I ride and didn't like that much weight that far back.

 

[mjn]

@JACKAL, thank you SO much for taking the time to put this together. There is a ton of excellent information here. Very cool stuff in this thread.
Great reading for someone like me that's about to jump on the Pioneer wagon..

 

[JACKAL]

@JACKAL, thank you SO much for taking the time to put this together. There is a ton of excellent information here. Very cool stuff in this thread.
Great reading for someone like me that's about to jump on the Pioneer wagon..

Thanks, It was fun doing everything and just thought at that early stage (28 months ago) would just document the progress. Everything I did was for a purpose not too many bells and whistles.

After 3000 miles have learned a lot and have developed different opinions of what I would change. I wouldn't bother with any lift, it's not needed and can cause CV joints to fail when in a bind in hard terrain. Also would not go to super heavy tires especially on the front, it just pounded the steering rack loose internally from hard running in rocky & rutted terrain. As a comparison I also have a 2018 LE that is 100% stock running exact same terrain with 1500 miles on it too. The LE has handled every type of difficult terrain with ease. I would only install a glass windshield that can be opened for ventilation in hot weather but closed for cold or wet conditions. Beyond that everything else has worked out as desired.

 

[mjn]

Thanks, It was fun doing everything and just thought at that early stage (28 months ago) would just document the progress. Everything I did was for a purpose not too many bells and whistles.

After 3000 miles have learned a lot and have developed different opinions of what I would change. I wouldn't bother with any lift, it's not needed and can cause CV joints to fail when in a bind in hard terrain. Also would not go to super heavy tires especially on the front, it just pounded the steering rack loose internally from hard running in rocky & rutted terrain. As a comparison I also have a 2018 LE that is 100% stock running exact same terrain with 1500 miles on it too. The LE has handled every type of difficult terrain with ease. I would only install a glass windshield that can be opened for ventilation in hot weather but closed for cold or wet conditions. Beyond that everything else has worked out as desired.

The '18 1K3 LE is what I'm going to end up with.. are you still running the OE Bighorns on yours? I just can't see sticking with a 4 ply tire.. I have Moto Hammers on my Viking, and really like 'em. I know they are heavier, but the 8 ply toughness is nice peace of mind.

 

[JACKAL]

The '18 1K3 LE is what I'm going to end up with.. are you still running the OE Bighorns on yours? I just can't see sticking with a 4 ply tire.. I have Moto Hammers on my Viking, and really like 'em. I know they are heavier, but the 8 ply toughness is nice peace of mind.

Still running OEM tires, I will replace them with 27x9x14 front and 27x11x14 rear Roctane XD 8 ply tires once I either cut, puncture, or wear these out. The OEM are actually only 25.5" and those 27" Roctane are 27.5" so they will still be 2" taller than current while not adding too much weight on front drive line and being tough.

 

[bucktaker]

Thanks, It was fun doing everything and just thought at that early stage (28 months ago) would just document the progress. Everything I did was for a purpose not too many bells and whistles.

After 3000 miles have learned a lot and have developed different opinions of what I would change. I wouldn't bother with any lift, it's not needed and can cause CV joints to fail when in a bind in hard terrain. Also would not go to super heavy tires especially on the front, it just pounded the steering rack loose internally from hard running in rocky & rutted terrain. As a comparison I also have a 2018 LE that is 100% stock running exact same terrain with 1500 miles on it too. The LE has handled every type of difficult terrain with ease. I would only install a glass windshield that can be opened for ventilation in hot weather but closed for cold or wet conditions. Beyond that everything else has worked out as desired.

Are you saying that the Stock LE machine handles the same terrain as the modified machine, Skids, lift ,tires included???

 

[Delton]

Are you saying that the Stock LE machine handles the same terrain as the modified machine, Skids, lift ,tires included???

Ive ran behind that LE. Did it handle same terrain? Yup. But that ground clearance did help out a few times. Stock machines are very trail capable.

 

[JACKAL]

Are you saying that the Stock LE machine handles the same terrain as the modified machine, Skids, lift ,tires included???

Yes, that's what I am saying. You can modify a machine to excel for a specific purpose, while at the same time be making sacrifices in other areas. For all around general trail riding, even fairly difficult trails an OEM Pioneer 1000 is very capable as is. I still recommend the skids and even a more durable tire as long as you don'tget one super heavy in physical weight, but the lifts and tall tires negatively impact the center of gravity and longevity of items like CV joints, axles, tire rods, and steering rack.