P1000 Knocking in left front outer CV joint

[Herbie]

I recently purchased this 2016 1000-5, and a couple of days ago took it on an 80 mile journey thru the Mountains around Silverton Colorado. I noticed that during tight turns to the left, while in 4 wheel drive, there is a knocking coming from the left front axle, probably from the outer CV joint.
When I got back to the cabin we are staying at, I noticed grease coming out of the outer left front CV boot. There was also grease in different places inside the wheel. (Not sure if it is cut or not yet)
So, I will be removing the axle and inspecting the CV joints (as much as I can). I am at our cabin, and have a good set of mechanic tools, but not my pullers for bearings, tie-rod ends, etc. They are at home.
I have the service manual for the machine, and am fairly mechanically competent.
What special tools might I need to pull and reinstall the axle and front suspension.
Can the outer CV joint be rebuilt, or does the axle need to be replaced, if I find problems with it? I believe the service manual says you cannot work on the outer CV joint.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

 

[Admin]

 

[JTW]

The only thing “special” you need to do an axel swap is a 30mm socket for the wheel nut. Everything else can be done with a set of metric sockets/ wrenches and a set of pliers or side cutters.

 

[CumminsPusher]

The only thing “special” you need to do an axel swap is a 30mm socket for the wheel nut. Everything else can be done with a set of metric sockets/ wrenches and a set of pliers or side cutters.

Don’t even need the 30mm. Good set of channel locks or a pipe wrench will get the job done.

 

[JTW]

Don’t even need the 30mm. Good set of channel locks or a pipe wrench will get the job done.

That’s a fantastic way to f*** up a castle nut!!

 

[CumminsPusher]

That’s a fantastic way to f*** up a castle nut!!

Ya no s*** socket works better but if you have limited tools sometimes you use what ya got. It works. Those aren’t on as tight as many of the 10mm or 5mm Allen bolts in the Pioneer lol.

 

[joeymt33]

I recently purchased this 2016 1000-5, and a couple of days ago took it on an 80 mile journey thru the Mountains around Silverton Colorado. I noticed that during tight turns to the left, while in 4 wheel drive, there is a knocking coming from the left front axle, probably from the outer CV joint.
When I got back to the cabin we are staying at, I noticed grease coming out of the outer left front CV boot. There was also grease in different places inside the wheel. (Not sure if it is cut or not yet)
So, I will be removing the axle and inspecting the CV joints (as much as I can). I am at our cabin, and have a good set of mechanic tools, but not my pullers for bearings, tie-rod ends, etc. They are at home.
I have the service manual for the machine, and am fairly mechanically competent.
What special tools might I need to pull and reinstall the axle and front suspension.
Can the outer CV joint be rebuilt, or does the axle need to be replaced, if I find problems with it? I believe the service manual says you cannot work on the outer CV joint.
Any help would be greatly appreciated.

I’ll give this a shot from memory real quick. You don’t have to remove the upper and lower ball joints like the manual says. There is an easier way.

I’ve not had good luck with a clicking CV after trying to clean it and re-grease it. You can’t buy individual parts for it. You can get the whole outer CV with axle shaft for about $180.

To remove it:

1: Jack up vehicle

2: Take off whee

3: Remove plastic shield in front of brake/CV by removing two screws using 10mm socket.

4: remove brake caliper screws using a 12mm socket or wrench.

5: remove brake pads

6: remove brake caliper bracket by removing two screws using a 17mm socket. They are installed by Honda using red Loc-Tite so use heat and/or a stout impact gun.

7: pull rotor and hub nut off by removing the pin and nut using a 30mm socket.

8: remove lower shock bolt using 17mm wrenches.

8: remove lower a-arm from frame by removing the two bolts using 17mm wrenches.

9: grab a-arm and rotate it 180° from it’s original position and lift the lower arm/knuckle/upper a-arm assembly up high enough so that the axle will come out of the knuckle. (May have to swing the shock out of the way) also, don’t lose the rubber o-ring on the outer end of the CV stub.

10: now that the axle is out of the hub, have ha helper or rope hold the suspension assembly up high enough so you can have the axle horizontally positioned and give it some sharp pulls and it should pop out. Be ready with a rag to plug the hole in the diff in case it’s a little over filled.

I’ve been meaning to video this. Maybe sometime soon. I hope this helps

 

[JTW]

I’ll give this a shot from memory real quick. You don’t have to remove the upper and lower ball joints like the manual says. There is an easier way.

I’ve not had good luck with a clicking CV after trying to clean it and re-grease it. You can’t buy individual parts for it. You can get the whole outer CV with axle shaft for about $180.

To remove it:

1: Jack up vehicle

2: Take off whee

3: Remove plastic shield in front of brake/CV by removing two screws using 10mm socket.

4: remove brake caliper screws using a 12mm socket or wrench.

5: remove brake pads

6: remove brake caliper bracket by removing two screws using a 17mm socket. They are installed by Honda using red Loc-Tite so use heat and/or a stout impact gun.

7: pull rotor and hub nut off by removing the pin and nut using a 30mm socket.

8: remove lower shock bolt using 17mm wrenches.

8: remove lower a-arm from frame by removing the two bolts using 17mm wrenches.

9: grab a-arm and rotate it 180° from it’s original position and lift the lower arm/knuckle/upper a-arm assembly up high enough so that the axle will come out of the knuckle. (May have to swing the shock out of the way) also, don’t lose the rubber o-ring on the outer end of the CV stub.

10: now that the axle is out of the hub, have ha helper or rope hold the suspension assembly up high enough so you can have the axle horizontally positioned and give it some sharp pulls and it should pop out. Be ready with a rag to plug the hole in the diff in case it’s a little over filled.

I’ve been meaning to video this. Maybe sometime soon. I hope this helps

I pull the upper ball joint and tie rod nuts off and just let the whole hub lay out flat. Just keep a 5 gallon bucket under it all to set it on.

 

[ohanacreek]

14mm, 17mm hammer

I’ll give this a shot from memory real quick. You don’t have to remove the upper and lower ball joints like the manual says. There is an easier way.

I’ve not had good luck with a clicking CV after trying to clean it and re-grease it. You can’t buy individual parts for it. You can get the whole outer CV with axle shaft for about $180.

To remove it:

1: Jack up vehicle

2: Take off whee

3: Remove plastic shield in front of brake/CV by removing two screws using 10mm socket.

4: remove brake caliper screws using a 12mm socket or wrench.

5: remove brake pads

6: remove brake caliper bracket by removing two screws using a 17mm socket. They are installed by Honda using red Loc-Tite so use heat and/or a stout impact gun.

7: pull rotor and hub nut off by removing the pin and nut using a 30mm socket.

8: remove lower shock bolt using 17mm wrenches.

8: remove lower a-arm from frame by removing the two bolts using 17mm wrenches.

9: grab a-arm and rotate it 180° from it’s original position and lift the lower arm/knuckle/upper a-arm assembly up high enough so that the axle will come out of the knuckle. (May have to swing the shock out of the way) also, don’t lose the rubber o-ring on the outer end of the CV stub.

10: now that the axle is out of the hub, have ha helper or rope hold the suspension assembly up high enough so you can have the axle horizontally positioned and give it some sharp pulls and it should pop out. Be ready with a rag to plug the hole in the diff in case it’s a little over filled.

I’ve been meaning to video this. Maybe sometime soon. I hope this helps

You can skip 3-7a, with a fresh axel and a good helper that can be accomplished in about 5-7 mins.

I have two aftermarket that need to be swapped for factory let’s do it.

 

[snuffnwhisky]

14mm, 17mm hammer


You can skip 3-7a, with a fresh axel and a good helper that can be accomplished in about 5-7 mins.

I have two aftermarket that need to be swapped for factory let’s do it.

But kinda drunk/mostly/kinda on a hill side in the dark with a rickitdy winch rope holding the rig over on its side and beer brakes and walking uphill to the vehicle with the parts and tools multiple times adds time.

 

[Herbie]

I’ll give this a shot from memory real quick. You don’t have to remove the upper and lower ball joints like the manual says. There is an easier way.

I’ve not had good luck with a clicking CV after trying to clean it and re-grease it. You can’t buy individual parts for it. You can get the whole outer CV with axle shaft for about $180.

To remove it:

1: Jack up vehicle

2: Take off whee

3: Remove plastic shield in front of brake/CV by removing two screws using 10mm socket.

4: remove brake caliper screws using a 12mm socket or wrench.

5: remove brake pads

6: remove brake caliper bracket by removing two screws using a 17mm socket. They are installed by Honda using red Loc-Tite so use heat and/or a stout impact gun.

7: pull rotor and hub nut off by removing the pin and nut using a 30mm socket.

8: remove lower shock bolt using 17mm wrenches.

8: remove lower a-arm from frame by removing the two bolts using 17mm wrenches.

9: grab a-arm and rotate it 180° from it’s original position and lift the lower arm/knuckle/upper a-arm assembly up high enough so that the axle will come out of the knuckle. (May have to swing the shock out of the way) also, don’t lose the rubber o-ring on the outer end of the CV stub.

10: now that the axle is out of the hub, have ha helper or rope hold the suspension assembly up high enough so you can have the axle horizontally positioned and give it some sharp pulls and it should pop out. Be ready with a rag to plug the hole in the diff in case it’s a little over filled.

I’ve been meaning to video this. Maybe sometime soon. I hope this helps

That was what I was thinking about doing. Glad someone else has done it this way, too. I did this on a Kawasaki Bayou 400 when changing axle boots, but wasn't sure how easy/difficult it would be on this P1K5.
Thanks!

 

[Herbie]

So, next question would be: What axle assembly would you recommend? While I was under front end, I noticed that the right front had already been replaced by previous owner. It is an All Balls Racing 8 Ball Axle, and was thinking about using the same on this one.

 

[JTW]

So, next question would be: What axle assembly would you recommend? While I was under front end, I noticed that the right front had already been replaced by previous owner. It is an All Balls Racing 8 Ball Axle, and was thinking about using the same on this one.

SATV rhino for the fronts.. stay with Honda on the back

 

[joeymt33]

So, next question would be: What axle assembly would you recommend? While I was under front end, I noticed that the right front had already been replaced by previous owner. It is an All Balls Racing 8 Ball Axle, and was thinking about using the same on this one.

I know a guy that has been using the all balls axles and abuses them very hard without a single issue but then I also know a couple people that have broke them very easily. I think the OEM axles are very hard to beat. Too bad they are a little pricey.

By the way, the stock axles are eight ball as well.