Oil and sub trans drain extension

[rslafave]

I saw a video showing and telling what you need to extend the drains so u don’t make a mess all over your skid plate. Can anyone help me with this. Thanks I have a 2021 1000-5 deluxe

 

[Admin]

 

[P1K5Dave]

What did he mean by "extend the drains?" If it involves any full-time extension added to your drain port, skip that idea.

Oil changes on the 1000 can be a little messy, but that's just part of the deal. You can take your skid plates off if you want, it's a lot of added work I don't need.

 

[rslafave]

Yes extend the drain with a hose so I don’t need to take skid plate off when I have to change.

 

[Remington]

Yes extend the drain with a hose so I don’t need to take skid plate off when I have to change.

Never seen that before. also did an extensive search on here and notin honey! Why are u wanting to do this, have you done it the old fashion way yet? If u were to extend them, u would have to change the plug to some kind of barb fitting then something else to cap it. Doing this, I would be afraid that it would catch something in the woods, muck what have you and tear it off and then no oil and bug $$$. Just use a holesaw and cut the hole bigger around the drain plug. I did that to my P1 all gooder now.

Welcome BTW. Got any pics of that machine? 2 posts and bo pics!
#POIDH

 

[Bighat]

They make drain valves you can purchase that screw into the drain plug hole but I think that would be very dangerous on and off road machine like these. You would be placing a device that sticks out from the engine housing that could possible be broken off. If you did break it off you may even damage the engine housing where the plug screws into. Now that wouldn't be good.

 

[someguy1313]

as others have noted, would not recommend unless your machine is strictly a flat farm or golf course machine.

 

[Red500]

A bigger hole in the skid plate?
You can always use duct tape to reseal it.
Welcome to the club from East Tennessee.

 

[Prntckt]

I remove my skid plate for each oil change. After you do it a few times, you get pretty efficient at it. Per a good recommendation from member ToddACimer, all of the tapped mounting points in the frame have been retrofitted with rivnuts. It takes a little longer to do the oil change, but I find its a good thing to drop the skid plate on a regular basis to clean out all the debris that gets caught above the skid plate. Its a good opportunity to look over the underside of the machine too.

 

[Bighat]

If you're determine to do it, take a look and this site: Featured Products I'd be scared to death to use one because anything like a stick or rock could turn the valve on and drain your oil.

 

[hondabob]

Like "Prntckt" said remove the skid plate. It doesn't hurt to do a good clean up and inspection with the skid plate off.

 

[PJon]

I’m getting ready to do an oil change on mine and I’m hoping to add a Fumoto valve along with a piece of capped hose. Skid plates SATV 1/2” will come off for the install and if the valve opening lever comes out on the bottom I’ll try to shim it so the valve lever is up. This will only be the drain that comes out of the engine case horizontally. Don’t know if it will all come together well, but I’m getting tired of the mess.

 

[hondabob]

I had the Fumoto valve on the oil tank on my 2011 RZR 900. It worked great. You might need to add a steel skid plate section around the drain area.

 

[PJon]

I had the Fumoto valve on the oil tank on my 2011 RZR 900. It worked great. You might need to add a steel skid plate section around the drain area.

Yes, I’ll need to check clearance carefully. Right now it’s about 1-1/2” to bottom of skid plate.

 

[PJon]

Well, today was oil change day for my P1k5. I went ahead and pulled the rear half of my SATV skid plate knowing that it was going to be loaded with oily dirt from the last oil change. I also planned to install a Fumoto valve for the engine sump ( the horizontal plug). Unfortunately, the Fumoto valve couldn’t be used. It would turn in about 2 full revolutions and then the valve body started hitting the sump. The good part of the ordeal was that due to having part of the skid plate removed, was that there was no mess to clean up. Guess I’ll just pull the skid plate in the future for oil changes.

 

[tdhanses]

Well, today was oil change day for my P1k5. I went ahead and pulled the rear half of my SATV skid plate knowing that it was going to be loaded with oily dirt from the last oil change. I also planned to install a Fumoto valve for the engine sump ( the horizontal plug). Unfortunately, the Fumoto valve couldn’t be used. It would turn in about 2 full revolutions and then the valve body started hitting the sump. The good part of the ordeal was that due to having part of the skid plate removed, was that there was no mess to clean up. Guess I’ll just pull the skid plate in the future for oil changes.

What are the threads for the drains plugs? I’d get this as it’s an internal ball check valve, have one on my pickup https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AMXATSC/?tag=sxsweb24-20

 

[PJon]

What are the threads for the drains plugs? I’d get this as it’s an internal ball check valve, have one on my pickup https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B01AMXATSC/?tag=sxsweb24-20

The engine oil sump is M12 x 1.5 and the sub trans is M14 x 1.5

 

[PJon]

If you're determine to do it, take a look and this site: Featured Products I'd be scared to death to use one because anything like a stick or rock could turn the valve on and drain your oil.

That valve looks to be very similar in size to the Fumoto which I just found won’t work due to clearance problems with the sump.