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P1000 P1K5Dave's TTC 3" Lift and Fox Shock Install

TripleB

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Post #641

That's exactly the way I did mine.
 
P1K5Dave

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The thing about that method that gets me is, you compress the spring down and all...but then when you want to take the pressure off, there's no click-by-click release, just throwing the ratchet all the way back, pulling the lever and BAM the whole load is dumped.
 
JenElio

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The thing about that method that gets me is, you compress the spring down and all...but then when you want to take the pressure off, there's no click-by-click release, just throwing the ratchet all the way back, pulling the lever and BAM the whole load is dumped.
Undo one at a time little by little. Makes it a bit easier
 
Remington

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The thing about that method that gets me is, you compress the spring down and all...but then when you want to take the pressure off, there's no click-by-click release, just throwing the ratchet all the way back, pulling the lever and BAM the whole load is dumped.
Yep, key is to have the pre load off and to not have the spring compressed to all hell. Just enough to do the work you need to
 
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P1K5Dave

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I accidentally ordered 12" long springs for the front (12 x 2.5 x 250) and it's going to cost me about $90 with shipping and restocking fees to exchange for 14".

I'm thinking about just running the 12's. On a shock that only moves 6", it shouldn't matter anyway, right? Besides, I'm thinking the 12' will be easier to install anyway.

Votes?
 
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TripleB

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I accidentally ordered 12" long springs for the front (12 x 2.5 x 250) and it's going to cost me about $90 with shipping and restocking fees to exchange for 14".

I'm thinking about just running the 12's. On a shock that only moves 6", it shouldn't matter anyway, right? Besides, I'm thinking the 12' will be easier to install anyway.

Votes?
The front springs on a 3 seater are only 12.5" long. I think it's the same shock body as the 5 seater, just different springs. I myself would put them on and see what happens. I'm no expert and I make a lot of bad decisions so maybe someone really smart can tell you for sure.
 
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P1K5Dave

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I talked to Dave at Dave's Offroad and he said your springs should be 2x your shock travel. 12" springs should cover that, but then the question is whether you have enough threaded length on the shock body to preload them properly.

After riding for a bit tonight, I went with my instinct to "do it right" and put in the order for the 14s.
 
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P1K5Dave

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I have a bit of a mea culpa re: 814 shocks..

When I started this upgrade, I was clueless about preload, 30% sag, and all of that. In my
Fox Shock Spring thread a few months later, I detail all I've learned about this stuff since I installed the 814's and promptly ditched them for the Fox QS-3's.

The main thing I"m concerned about is the fact that the only guideline I had for preloading was 4.5" on one end and 4.0" on the other. I can't recall which was which now (front or rear) but now I realize that it's entirely possible that those shocks were waay over preloaded. However, I did dump a s***load of preload off the front at one time to test it out, and it didn't really get better.

Maybe the limiter straps would have been less of an issue if the preload was set right? I dunno. But I really, really disliked the straps as soon as I started installing them in the first place, and I had that horrible experience with a lack of articulation.

Just some thoughts to be fair. I'd still never buy them again.
 
P1K5Dave

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I just realized I've come full circle on the issue I had installing ball joints, and the requirement for washers to keep the castle nuts from going past the threads on the uppers:

The "cheap" upper ball joints he shipped with my kit (ones without grease zerks) had a too-small tapered stud, which caused it to draw too far into the hub, which caused the premature failure documented over on my build thread:

Post in thread 'P1K5Dave's 1000-5 Build' P1000 - P1K5Dave's 1000-5 Build


That cost me money and time, a fail on TTC's part. He shipped cheap ball joints because of supply chain issues due to, well, you know.
 
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P1K5Dave

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Well, this isn't good:

Hit my machine with the power washer, getting ready to install my new springs on the Fox shocks up front. Cleaning the front a-arms and looked at the right side upper arm, near the shock mount, and found a crack.

0922211739



Looked over at the same place on the drivers side, and found a smaller crack starting.
0922211740a


Contacted Jared at TTC, he's manufacturing and rushing two new upper a-arms to me asap. I'm a little concerned about how / why this happened, waiting for more feedback. My machine is certainly not on the high-end of the abuse-o-meter, mostly trail riding under 20 mph, hitting some bumps and ruts here and there, climbing some stuff. No rock bashing, no jumping.

3 months / 1500 miles.
 
JenElio

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Well, this isn't good:

Hit my machine with the power washer, getting ready to install my new springs on the Fox shocks up front. Cleaning the front a-arms and looked at the right side upper arm, near the shock mount, and found a crack.

View attachment 296598


Looked over at the same place on the drivers side, and found a smaller crack starting.
View attachment 296597

Contacted Jared at TTC, he's manufacturing and rushing two new upper a-arms to me asap. I'm a little concerned about how / why this happened, waiting for more feedback. My machine is certainly not on the high-end of the abuse-o-meter, mostly trail riding under 20 mph, hitting some bumps and ruts here and there, climbing some stuff. No rock bashing, no jumping.

3 months / 1500 miles.
That sucks man! At least they are taking care of the issue for you. Hope the new ones work out better 👍
 
toddvdh

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That’s why I don’t clean my machine before I work on stuff!! Between the mud falling in my eyes and the mud on the a-arms, I would have never noticed cracks!

Im glad they are fixing it so quickly.
 
P1K5Dave

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As a follow-up, Jared at TTC did send me new front arms asap, and they're much heavier duty. I learned that all builds going forward are made with the heavier material.

I ran the new ones with no issues last season.
 
Dezrik

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Mine cracked in the exact same place, Ive welded them back up a few times. Jared also sent me the thick tube boys, which im just now getting around to installing a year later lol!
 
Jas sxs

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I'll also have a bracket lift, Highlifter arms, and 3 stock shocks to sell after I'm done, if anyone's interested in them. The front right shock is junk, that's another story...
pm me with what u want for the bracket lift
 
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Robobrainiac

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Today I put out the order for a set of Viper springs from Dave's Off Road Supply.

After losing all of my softer side of the Fox rear springs after preloading (see 2nd pic a few posts up,) I decided I wanted to go to a single rate spring so I can get the preload right and get full travel from the spring.

I went with 2.5" x 14" x 250# on the front, and 3.0" x 14" x 300# on the rear.

Note that if you're going to go with 3" on the rear (instead of removing your mud guard and going with cheaper 2.5" springs) it's actually cheaper to go with Dave's over Summit. While Summit is cheaper on the 2.5's, their markup on the 3.0's is way up there. Overall, I saved about $20 on the whole order from Dave's, even with paid shipping - and I got my springs in RED, which I liked better than silver.

I was curious if you might know this info because I can't find much about Viper online. I emailed FOA, and Viper Spring Technology on the 28th and I have not received a response yet. The rear 3.0" on the site have a title of just shocks, front primary, rear primary, tender, front tender, and rear tender. I am not sure what the difference is. All options have the same color and pound rate availability.
 
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P1K5Dave

P1K5Dave

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I haven't been into this for a while, but aren't tender springs those short springs Ive seen sitting on top with the Polaris's?

You just need the length / diameter we've been talking about here, and the weight rating you need.
 
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