P1000 Quick light wiring question

[bmcote]

thanks in advance! i am installing side/alley light pods, each on their own switch/circuit for individual control. the pods are 120W so 10 amps each (Amazon.com: Nilight 18022C-B 6.5Inch 2PCS 6.5 Inch 120W Spot & Flood Combo Bar Driving Waterproof Led Work Light Triple Rows Off-Road Truck Car ATV SUV Jeep Cabin Boat, 2 Years Warranty: Automotive)

if i had to guess, total wire run is maybe 8 feet to the front.

@RobSparre diagram recommends using a relay for higher current/longer distances (just unsure what the criteria is)

1. do i need to put a relay? or can i just run them to the fuse block/switch without it?

2. if yes to the relay, would i get a 15 or 20 amp relay (not a 10)?

 

[Admin]

 

[sporttrac4x4]

thanks in advance! i am installing side/alley light pods, each on their own switch/circuit for individual control. the pods are 120W so 10 amps each (Amazon.com: Nilight 18022C-B 6.5Inch 2PCS 6.5 Inch 120W Spot & Flood Combo Bar Driving Waterproof Led Work Light Triple Rows Off-Road Truck Car ATV SUV Jeep Cabin Boat, 2 Years Warranty: Automotive)

if i had to guess, total wire run is maybe 8 feet to the front.

@RobSparre diagram recommends using a relay for higher current/longer distances (just unsure what the criteria is)

1. do i need to put a relay? or can i just run them to the fuse block/switch without it?

2. if yes to the relay, would i get a 15 or 20 amp relay (not a 10)?

Do what ever you want to but I would look for something That took less watts.

 

[Hondasxs]

These do not pull the calculated amps.
(Most all LED's dont) [W÷V=A]=inaccurate.

They pull 2.1a each @ 13.5 volts.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

[HBarlow]

As a general rule always use a relay to maintain integrity of the electrical system.

Murphy's Law should be your guide. If something can go wrong it will.

 

[bumperm]

No relay needed. The rocker switches are rated at 20 amps, so even if the Nilight pulled rated current of 10 amps, which they won't, they would still be at only about half the switch rating. I'd guess you'd see something like 6 amps for one of the lights. 14 ga wire would be suitable for the installation.

I recently installed a Nilight 312 watt 54" light bar. It should draw 26 amps at 12 volts according to the wattage claim. I measured it while monitoring voltage, at 16.4 amps with a 13 volt supply. So figuring about 2/3 claimed rating would get you in the ballpark. I kept the light as it is more than bright enough for my purpose.

 

[bmcote]

thank you @bumperm and @Hondasxs! i figured as much but always good to hear from someone else haha.

 

[HBarlow]

So what happens if one of the lamps or wires supplying current to the lamps is shorted to ground?

There are many ways that can happen.

 

[bumperm]

So what happens if one of the lamps or wires supplying current to the lamps is shorted to ground?

There are many ways that can happen.

No one suggested that the light be wired without fusing!!! That would be nuts. The positive wire for the light comes from the fuse block, (probably a 15 amp fuse at most) then goes to the panel switch. From there it goes to the light. The ground wire, or ground return path, is of no concern. This is assuming that the load (device being wired) consumes a relatively low amount of current that is suitable for direct switching without the need for a relay. If a relay is needed, it gets fused too.

On the roof mounted light bar, I just installed, I fused both the 12 ga + feed to the relay, as well as the relay coil (control) wire going to the light switch.

 

[Rayger143]

So what happens if one of the lamps or wires supplying current to the lamps is shorted to ground?

There are many ways that can happen.

It should blow a fuse if you are using the correct size. I also installed a 52 inch light bar that I got on Amazon for cheap that claimed it was 675watts. When I received it I connected to a battery on my bench and used a clamp on meter to measure dc amps and was 9 amps. I installed it with a relay on a 15 amp fuse. My rear lights and side lights are just led pods so I just wired them in pairs without relays and a 10amp fuse on each pair. Works well so far.

 

[bumperm]

It should blow a fuse if you are using the correct size. I also installed a 52 inch light bar that I got on Amazon for cheap that claimed it was 675watts. When I received it I connected to a battery on my bench and used a clamp on meter to measure dc amps and was 9 amps. I installed it with a relay on a 15 amp fuse. My rear lights and side lights are just led pods so I just wired them in pairs without relays and a 10amp fuse on each pair. Works well so far.

675 watts!! Wow, if that were accurate, (56.25 amps) it would be sucking all the electric power the engine is making when running. Being as the Honda is relying on all that computer power to do it's thing, when you flipped the light switch it'd probably all come to a grinding halt!! But a well lit grinding halt!

 

[Hondasxs]

You could run both these lights through a switch and 10A fuse direct to a power source if you choose.

I would prefer you wire it after a stinger or other simular switched supply.

Relay for this item is just added headaches.
But you could if you choose.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

[Rayger143]

675 watts!! Wow, if that were accurate, (56.25 amps) it would be sucking all the electric power the engine is making when running. Being as the Honda is relying on all that computer power to do it's thing, when you flipped the light switch it'd probably all come to a grinding halt!! But a well lit grinding halt!

Lol! That's what I'm talking about. Must be an equivalent rating. Just look at the gauge of wire on the light.

 

[bumperm]

You could run both these lights through a switch and 10A fuse direct to a power source if you choose.

I would prefer you wire it after a stinger or other simular switched supply.

Relay for this item is just added headaches.
But you could if you choose.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

I think that's wise. I used a Bosch 75 amp relay, key switched, to provide power for half my fuse block - the other half always on. I modified the fuse block to split it ( that turned out to be more of a hassle than using two smaller fuse blocks ).

 

[HBarlow]

No one suggested that the light be wired without fusing!!! That would be nuts. The positive wire for the light comes from the fuse block, (probably a 15 amp fuse at most) then goes to the panel switch. From there it goes to the light. The ground wire, or ground return path, is of no concern. This is assuming that the load (device being wired) consumes a relatively low amount of current that is suitable for direct switching without the need for a relay. If a relay is needed, it gets fused too.

On the roof mounted light bar, I just installed, I fused both the 12 ga + feed to the relay, as well as the relay coil (control) wire going to the light switch.

Okay, I'm with you now. No argument.

I prefer to use a relay near the battery or alternator and as near the load as possible and use the switch only to control the relay. That eliminates or reduces voltage drop in long wire runs, and reduces chances of high current shorts if wires get pinched.

 

[bumperm]

Okay, I'm with you now. No argument.

I prefer to use a relay near the battery or alternator and as near the load as possible and use the switch only to control the relay. That eliminates or reduces voltage drop in long wire runs, and reduces chances of high current shorts if wires get pinched.

Not to be argumentative, but I don't understand the logic? Relays (or contactors) are used for loads that draw too much current to run through a switch, and running heavy wire to a switch is at minimum, clumsy.

I can't see how the use of a relay minimizes voltage drop in any significant manner over direct wiring that is well within a switch's current rating. Relay or not, the length of the wiring runs we are dealing with, and the gauge of the wire remains essentially the same. You still need to run a heavier wire from the battery to the relay and from there to the load. True, without the relay, you have to go from the bat to the switch and then to the load, but that added distance is what, 4 feet max? For something drawing a couple of amps, not worth the trouble. 10 amps or inductive load, (when the load breaks is when there is the most arcing) go with a relay.

 

[Hondasxs]

@bumperm, totally agree.
No need for a relay to a dome light. Yet, seen many do it.
to each his own...