Talon Front Driveline Woes

[906UP]

That means pulling the axles, correct?

I think @906UP pulled the whole thing all the way out and worked it on the bench.

That's what it sounded like to me also.

Yes, I pulled the front diff first. Unbolt the clutch from the back of the diff (3 bolts, a 12mm ratchet wrench works awesome), remove the bottom bolt on the shocks and the bottom 2 control arm bolts, use a ratchet strap to hold the upper A arm up and give the axle a yank, it'll pop right out. Then a couple of sensors on the diff for the i4wd, 3 bolts on the diff and it comes out the front.

I'm assuming you already have the front bumper off but that's only a couple bolts each side. The diff will slide right out the front, then you can pull the front driveshaft with clutch attached out the front as well.

Probably seems like a lot of extra work but it's just a few bolts and I was done fighting that clip while standing on my head. Plus it gave me an opportunity to have a few beers and "bond" (as my wife calls it) with my buggy 😁

 

[Admin]

 

[906UP]

It's worth mentioning by the time I got to swapping the driveshaft I'd already had the front diff out twice before, once to set the backlash (was wrong from the factory) and once to install the TorqLocker so it wasn't a big deal to pull in one more time.

 

[Dankathy]

Yep, my two local shops (Reno and Carson City) don't have them and show them on back order. A few online places show 10 days or so for delivery but Partzilla says 200-210 days! I have a short list of shops that have them with the closest in Utah. I'll start calling and seeing if they'll send it to me. Is there any word on a cross reference for this piece, either from another Honda unit or something else?

The noisy shaft may have to stay put for the time being.

I use rocky mountain ATV for western region, when something's out of stock I try Ron Ayers eastern region sometimes it works. Close doesn't matter to me, freight is what it is, rmatv is quick if in stock. Some dealers will divulge who else may have it, most don't give a shot if you get what you need or not. Ron Ayers helped me locate one, I got one out of Kentucky.

 

[CID]

I use rocky mountain ATV for western region, when something's out of stock I try Ron Ayers eastern region sometimes it works. Close doesn't matter to me, freight is what it is, rmatv is quick if in stock. Some dealers will divulge who else may have it, most don't give a shot if you get what you need or not. Ron Ayers helped me locate one, I got one out of Kentucky.

Why were you in there, Dan? Did you get the SATV CV driveshaft? Problems with yours (mileage?) or preventative?

 

[Dankathy]

I don't think they've moved so far. I did put JB on them but they may have been moving before. There is definitely a bit of play in the front u-joint. I have the new SATV shaft sitting here, just waiting. I tracked down a few clips and ordered one from a shop in UT. I was on the line with one in WV but they wanted about $60 for shipping a $3 part! I'll push before I pay that.

$60 worth of u-joints and some tack welds I'm hoping I should be good for another 23-24k miles. I'm sure the satv shaft is super cool, I don't normally run the talon where I can feel a little vibration. But I don't balance my tires either, so🤷‍♂️

 

[Dankathy]

Why were you in there, Dan? Did you get the SATV CV driveshaft? Problems with yours (mileage?) or preventative?

She with good ears heard a rattle, yokes were good so new u-joints and away we go. About 24k-24,5000 miles. No reason for a different shaft

 

[CID]

She with good ears heard a rattle, yokes were good so new u-joints and away we go. About 24k-24,5000 miles. No reason for a different shaft

Do you have a link, part number, source etc. for the u-joints? I don't think Honda sells them separately.

 

[Dankathy]

Do you have a link, part number, source etc. for the u-joints? I don't think Honda sells them separately.

Went to a local shop that does driveshafts, $75 they installed two neapco joints,1000 series is about all I can say. Common Spicer part, napa stocks them. Commonly used in the steering shaft for trucks. If you have time to shop around, you can get them with a zerk in the center of the cross (practically useless even in a steering shaft) or a zerk in the cap that I would probably never use. The guys I found stocked a sealed unit,and you know us- we had places to go see

 

[906UP]

She with good ears heard a rattle, yokes were good so new u-joints and away we go. About 24k-24,5000 miles. No reason for a different shaft

My buggy had a vibration & noise from day 1, thats how I found the backlash in the front diff was wrong but that didn't take care of the issue, the new SATV driveshaft cured the noise & vibration issue. I'd say my driveshaft was junk from the start.

Do you have a link, part number, source etc. for the u-joints? I don't think Honda sells them separately.

I have a replacement u-joint on my shelf, I'll get you the number. If you want it I'll send it to you, I won't use it now.

 

[CID]

My buggy had a vibration & noise from day 1, that's how I found the backlash in the front diff was wrong but that didn't take care of the issue, the new SATV driveshaft cured the noise & vibration issue. I'd say my driveshaft was junk from the start.

I have a replacement u-joint on my shelf, I'll get you the number. If you want it I'll send it to you, I won't use it now.

Thanks for the offer, 👍 but if I go to the trouble of removing the DS, SATV's CV will be going back in. I wanted the u-joint info to be posted 'for the record'.

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

Do you have a link, part number, source etc. for the u-joints? I don't think Honda sells them separately.

Paul posted the part numbers somewhere in this thread. I'm 99% sure I used the numbers to buy greasable joints for my Talon.

 

[Zeppelindad]

I read through the 10 pages on this thread after my rear cup failed at 5300 miles. I initially got a Moog 338 u-joint but I wanted the non-greasable one mentioned from Neapco 1-0170NPL . Local auto stores didn’t have the Neapco. After installing the Moog I see there isn’t ANY way to get a grease gun on it! So ordered the Neapco from Drivetrain.com.
Btw I’m doing all this without removing the propellor shaft. Someone had suggested they did this. I can see it’s going to be a real challenge to get the c-clips (my dad always called these Jesus clips because you yell Jesus when they go flying) so I may not install all of them since I’m welding the caps in anyway.
I welded the front caps while installed.
I see the fuel tank is directly next to this shaft too. I’m going to put my fiberglass blanket around everything. Sparks near here can be bad.😉
I was going to if Honda sold the U-joints but I see it’s only the shaft assembly.