Talon Front Driveline Woes

[Lateral G]

If the U-joints have play and the bearing caps are in place you may be able to do a ride. You can use a sawzall with a 9 inch blade and cut the driveshaft in half to remove it quickly. With it out you can drive ok in 2WD. Sometimes we will have 10 Talons on a ride. I always take my sawzall to cut the driveshaft in half if some had a bearing cup fall out. It can be cut through the coolant drain hole in the skid plate then just pull it forward off the sub trans.

Is it typically the front joint or the rear one that goes bad? Or both?

I like the sawzall trick, if I go that route I'll be SENDING IT up some shale shelfs!

 

[hondabob]

Most are the rear U-joint but my buddy has the front one fail. Its easy to check to see if there is play in the U-joint. My 2020 Talon with nearly 6,000 miles is still OK. I marked the cups and check them at every oil change or before a big ride. There is a cardboard sleeve inside the drive shaft.

 

[sparky4460]

I have read that some have tried a cold weld epoxy such as JB Weld instead of a tack weld. Does anyone have any experience with this solution?

 

[sparky4460]

Is it typically the front joint or the rear one that goes bad? Or both?

I like the sawzall trick, if I go that route I'll be SENDING IT up some shale shelfs!

If you use the sawzall method, I assume as long as the 4 wheel drive is NOT engaged the drive shaft still connected to the front final gear will NOT be rotating and flopping around. Correct?.

 

[sparky4460]

If the U-joints have play and the bearing caps are in place you may be able to do a ride. You can use a sawzall with a 9 inch blade and cut the driveshaft in half to remove it quickly. With it out you can drive ok in 2WD. Sometimes we will have 10 Talons on a ride. I always take my sawzall to cut the driveshaft in half if some had a bearing cup fall out. It can be cut through the coolant drain hole in the skid plate then just pull it forward off the sub trans.


View attachment 324774View attachment 324775

If you use the sawzall method, I assume as long as the 4 wheel drive is NOT engaged the drive shaft still connected to the front final gear will NOT be rotating and flopping around. Correct?.

 

[highpocket74]

I have a noise that is concerning, not sure if its the same thing discussed here. It could be described as a "rattle", I thought it sounded similar to an exhaust leak but it isnt an exhaust leak. The noise gets louder with speed, I dont even hear it under 20MPH. Also, the noise is worse with the engine at low RPM under throttle; like if I upshift to drop my RPMs. The noise does seem to come from the drive shaft towards the front. Am I going down the right path here?

Same with mine. I noticed it a few weeks ago when running higher speeds on roads. It doesn't sound right!!

 

[scottkooch]

I have not seen any reports of the X4 having a driveline fail (not that it isn't possible). The X4 has a 2 piece driveline with a center carrier bearing and the parts are all different. Maybe the X4 parts have better press fit tolerances than the 2 seater, only time will tell...

View attachment 271100

I've been following this for a year now, any X-4's having issues?

 

[CID]

Same with mine. I noticed it a few weeks ago when running higher speeds on roads. It doesn't sound right!!

Mark your u-joint caps as shown in post 142 and keep an eye on them. Since you're already able to feel it in the chassis, I'd drop the skid and feel each u-joint.

I've been following this for a year now, any X-4's having issues?

There have been a few X-4 reports, nothing as widespread as the X-2 though, yet. eta: and the R-2

 

[Tramguage1]

I replaced both on a buddies 4LV a month or so back.

 

[CID]

If you decide to tack weld the u-joint caps - important welding tip for the less experienced - when welding to the 'yolk side' caps, ground to the yolks. When welding the 'driveshaft side' caps, ground to the driveshaft. If you don't move your ground, you'll be forcing welding current through the u-joint rollers, causing arcing and permanently damaging the u-joints. You won't be able to see this but it IS happening.

 

[PaulF]

If you decide to tack weld the u-joint caps - important welding tip for the less experienced - when welding to the 'yolk side' caps, ground to the yolks. When welding the 'driveshaft side' caps, ground to the driveshaft. If you don't move your ground, you'll be forcing welding current through the u-joint rollers, causing arcing and permanently damaging the u-joints. You won't be able to see this but is IS happening.

THIS^^^^

It has been mentioned before but well worth repeating...

Talon Front Driveline Woes

There have been multiple reports of U-Joints on the Talon falling apart. I have now fallen victim to the problem but luckily caught it in the shop before it broke and not out on the trail. Many speculations such as missing clips, bad joints, etc. Instead of replacing the driveline and...

hondasxs.com

 

[AMink]

Dragging this one up from the dead, forgive me if the info is elsewhere. I am replacing my prop shaft. I got as far as getting the shaft off the sub transmission. I have spread the clip on the front but can't get the shaft to come off of the front differential. Any tips or tricks? This easy-on-the-surface swap has turned into a real PIA.

 

[HondaTech]

Dragging this one up from the dead, forgive me if the info is elsewhere. I am replacing my prop shaft. I got as far as getting the shaft off the sub transmission. I have spread the clip on the front but can't get the shaft to come off of the front differential. Any tips or tricks? This easy-on-the-surface swap has turned into a real PIA.

Loosen all three differential mount bolts.
Remove the top and front bolt, leave the rear
Remove the inner fender panel (if not already)

While spreading the clip open use a prybar from underneath (one of the round holes in the frame) to push the driveshaft back enough to clear the clip from the differential.

Then remove the remaining differential bolt and slide the diff forward.
Be sure the clip is moving all the way, I hose them down with parts cleaner and lube.

 

[AMink]

Loosen all three differential mount bolts.
Remove the top and front bolt, leave the rear
Remove the inner fender panel (if not already)

While spreading the clip open use a prybar from underneath (one of the round holes in the frame) to push the driveshaft back enough to clear the clip from the differential.

Then remove the remaining differential bolt and slide the diff forward.
Be sure the clip is moving all the way, I hose them down with parts cleaner and lube.

Grrr...when spreading the clip (with the correct tool) it bends up instead of sliding. I can keep one end under the diff piece but then the other side bends before it goes all the way in. It's a good thing I'm retired and have 20 hours to do this!

 

[HondaTech]

Grrr...when spreading the clip (with the correct tool) it bends up instead of sliding. I can keep one end under the diff piece but then the other side bends before it goes all the way in. It's a good thing I'm retired and have 20 hours to do this!

Make sure it's free to move in the groove first by pushing up on the bottom tab. If it's not moving then it won't spread open correctly.

We use a similar pair of pliers to these.

 

[AMink]

Make sure it's free to move in the groove first by pushing up on the bottom tab. If it's not moving then it won't spread open correctly.

We use a similar pair of pliers to these. View attachment 402904

It moves and I have pliers like those. What tab?

 

[HondaTech]

It moves and I have pliers like those. What tab?

The clip has the 2 tabs sticking out that your spreading apart. I make sure it moves in the groove by pushing up on the bottom tab to verify its moving.

The clip wont come out of the diff, until you get the shaft to move. It gets spread open into the groove in the differential then the driveshaft can be pushed rearward. Then you can release the clip, pull the last diff bolt out and push it forward.

 

[AMink]

The clip has the 2 tabs sticking out that your spreading apart. I make sure it moves in the groove by pushing up on the bottom tab to verify its moving.

The clip wont come out of the diff, until you get the shaft to move. It gets spread open into the groove in the differential then the driveshaft can be pushed rearward. Then you can release the clip, pull the last diff bolt out and push it forward.

OK, I got all that. I thought I missed a secret tab somewhere. My problem is the clip keeps bending before it spreads the whole way, even with the special pliers. I can get to it from the top and bottom but without the clip sliding all the way I'm fubar. I'm wondering if I can pull the clip all the way out around the circumference of the shaft. But if it breaks off inside I'm really screwed.

 

[HondaTech]

Sounds like its not moving internally then, I have had luck slide hammering them out like you described but the downside to that is a whole other problem.

 

[AMink]

Sounds like its not moving internally then, I have had luck slide hammering them out like you described but the downside to that is a whole other problem.

I can move the clip by hand so I do think it's free inside. I have to figure a way to get the bent side in without bending it more. These things frustrate the hell out of me!