Talon Front Driveline Woes

[SLOWPOKE693]

Swivel 12mm socket (1/4" drive) will take the bolt closer to the floorboard out easy.

Exactly how I did mine both times.

 

[Admin]

 

[Doogle]

Exactly how I did mine both times.

I had to use a 1/2" breaker bar with leverage to remove the easy one. I would have split a 1/4" socket easily. My rear loop bolts were just as stubborn. I lubed the last one and will try it again tomorrow.

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

I had to use a 1/2" breaker bar with leverage to remove the easy one. I would have split a 1/4" socket easily. My rear loop bolts were just as stubborn. I lubed the last one and will try it again tomorrow.

Try heating the nut welded to the frame with a propane torch for a brief second before you try to back them out. It softens up the lock tite and makes them alot easier to crack loose

 

[Doogle]

The first nut I took off the other day was on the rear. It was tough because I couldn't see the small tack welds. The second one seemed almost as tough. Same with the front right side. No evidence of lock tight. So today I removed the front driver side bolt. I wasn't sure what PaulF was describing in #102, but I think it is probably similar to what I did.

I cut a couple 2x4 wedges to hold the floor pan away, and wedged them against the driveshaft and the other against the yoke. I didn't need to strain as much removing this bolt. It must have been torqued correctly. Pictures below so others may not need to remove floor or cut a hole in it. Also pictured the tools I used and wedges I made.

 

[SLOWPOKE693]

I pulled the skidplate and did mine from the bottom and only used one 3" extension. Maybe that's why mine came off easier?

 

[HondaTech]

I pulled the skidplate and did mine from the bottom and only used one 3" extension. Maybe that's why mine came off easier?

Same here

 

[Boundertom]

Next one I remove I will use a hole saw and make a hole in the floorboard to make it easier to access that hoop bolt. Then a piece if plastic shaped to fit the contour of the floorboard with 4 push pins.

That's what I did. I think I posted that here and some said it wasn't necessary. Sure made it easier for me. And I haven't yet found a reason to plug that little hole!

 

[Doogle]

My floor panel was very tight to the loop. I couldn't get a 3/8" and swivel in without the wedges. Then expecting the bolt to be as tight as the others were, I wanted to use the 1/2" socket. For me, the less time I spend on my back looking up, the less chance of my vertigo symptoms. Many people may be able to use the 3" extension from the bottom with less tight bolts. If that doesn't work this option with pictures may benefit others

 

[Doogle]

Today I installed my new driveshaft with tacked u-joint caps. Removing the snap ring on the differential wasn't as bad as installing it today. I finally removed the panel in the front left wheel well for easier access. I also made modified snap ring pliers tips to expand the snap ring. I used some at hand bailing wire. But it was marginal thickness and caused problematic movement. I should have used #10 electrical wire. It did work eventually. I don't know why they didn't use a flange with 4 bolts like you see on cars. And I probably wouldn't say that if they made the yokes with proper interference fits, so the caps wouldn't wear out the bores and finally disintegrate.
Picture below of my snap ring pliers tips that were very helpful for me.

 

[HondaTech]

We use a pair of pliers like this, but from Mac Tools

 

[Doogle]

We use a pair of pliers like this, but from Mac Tools

View attachment 322727

I have similar pliers also. But sticking my hand in at a distance and trying to keep the tips lined up didn't work very well. The circle tips captured the retainer ring and held it easily. If I thought I would be doing this again, I would make a set from a heavier wire and try to center the loops more.

 

[HondaTech]

I have similar pliers also. But sticking my hand in at a distance and trying to keep the tips lined up didn't work very well. The circle tips captured the retainer ring and held it easily. If I thought I would be doing this again, I would make a set from a heavier wire and try to center the loops more.

These have divots on the outer edge of the tips to hold the clip. They also dont pivot in an arch, they spread in a straight line so the they wont slip.

Trust me, ive done way too many of these with everything under the sun and these are the only way.

We keep one bolt in the diff, spread the clip, then pry the shaft backwards to get it past the slot in the diff coupler. Then pull the diff forward, remove the front hoop and its out.

 

[Doogle]

These have divots on the outer edge of the tips to hold the clip. They also dont pivot in an arch, they spread in a straight line so the they wont slip.

Trust me, ive done way too many of these with everything under the sun and these are the only way.

We keep one bolt in the diff, spread the clip, then pry the shaft backwards to get it past the slot in the diff coupler. Then pull the diff forward, remove the front hoop and its out.

I guess I don't have pliers like that. No divots and bad arching. But my bailing wire goter dun.

 

[Lateral G]

I have a noise that is concerning, not sure if its the same thing discussed here. It could be described as a "rattle", I thought it sounded similar to an exhaust leak but it isnt an exhaust leak. The noise gets louder with speed, I dont even hear it under 20MPH. Also, the noise is worse with the engine at low RPM under throttle; like if I upshift to drop my RPMs. The noise does seem to come from the drive shaft towards the front. Am I going down the right path here?

 

[Fyathyrio]

Driveline noise will generally have a rhythm matching vehicle speed that doesn't change when changing engine speed by shifting higher/lower. Not sure what you are describing, but it doesn't seem like a driveshaft issue.

 

[jonacombs]

I have a noise that is concerning, not sure if its the same thing discussed here. It could be described as a "rattle", I thought it sounded similar to an exhaust leak but it isnt an exhaust leak. The noise gets louder with speed, I dont even hear it under 20MPH. Also, the noise is worse with the engine at low RPM under throttle; like if I upshift to drop my RPMs. The noise does seem to come from the drive shaft towards the front. Am I going down the right path here?

It’s u joints. To verify put it in 4wd and the noise will quiet down. Mine was the loudest if I was in a higher gear (4th-6th) and low rpm.

 

[Lateral G]

It’s u joints. To verify put it in 4wd and the noise will quiet down. Mine was the loudest if I was in a higher gear (4th-6th) and low rpm.

So, I'm in a pickle. I'm committed to leading a couple of rides with UTVUtah at the Green River Watermelon Crawl on March 25th and 26th. Not feeling comfortable with this noise but probably cant get it fixed under warranty in time. Other than the noise, any clues I can look for as to when this thing will come apart?

 

[Hometeam]

So, I'm in a pickle. I'm committed to leading a couple of rides with UTVUtah at the Green River Watermelon Crawl on March 25th and 26th. Not feeling comfortable with this noise but probably cant get it fixed under warranty in time. Other than the noise, any clues I can look for as to when this thing will come apart?

You could put paint marks on your caps to see if they are moving at all. I would say that if they aren't moving at all then you are still fine during the rides and will help tell you if your driveshaft is a problem yet. I don't have the caps welded on one of Talons yet but I have been watching the caps for movement till I get it tack welded.

 

[CID]

So, I'm in a pickle. I'm committed to leading a couple of rides with UTVUtah at the Green River Watermelon Crawl on March 25th and 26th. Not feeling comfortable with this noise but probably cant get it fixed under warranty in time. Other than the noise, any clues I can look for as to when this thing will come apart?

IF it's the u-joints making noise, you're done 'right now', they're on their way out. But if that's the problem, you should be able to feel the wiggle. You'll probably have to remove the skid plate for best access but there's an access panel shown earlier in this thread that might allow a 'good enough' wiggle inspection and a better visual.

 

[hondabob]

If the U-joints have play and the bearing caps are in place you may be able to do a ride. You can use a sawzall with a 9 inch blade and cut the driveshaft in half to remove it quickly. With it out you can drive ok in 2WD. Sometimes we will have 10 Talons on a ride. I always take my sawzall to cut the driveshaft in half if some had a bearing cup fall out. It can be cut through the coolant drain hole in the skid plate then just pull it forward off the sub trans.