PioneerPete submitted a new Garage Item:
The Making of Pete
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The Making of Pete
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joeymt33
i4WD=imitated 4WD
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I just read the other thread, I guess y'all didn't go to Prentice Cooper unless those trail systems connect.
Sent from my iPhone 10s
Sent from my iPhone 10s
PioneerPete
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we were at AMA, its on the opposite side of the river from PC. I did tweak the vertical roll bar on the drivers side, which jacked up my windshield mounts. its not too bad, but I'll have to have it straightened out. and yes, when in doubt, GAS IT! is exactly what happened there. really no other choice but to take the chicken route, and that gets old...
PioneerPete
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I'm looking to replace the wire rope on my Warn 4500lb winch with synthetic cable. I want to use the 3/8" synthetic, but I'm not sure what length will fit on my spool. Anyone else done this swap over, or know about how much 3/8" synthetic will fit on a 4500lb spool?
J
LOVE THE LOCATION OF THE LIGHT BAR. HOW IS IT ATTACHED. IF THERES ANOTHER THREAD THAT HAS IT ALL DESCRIBED FILL ME IN. IM LOOKING TO ADD MOST OF THE SAME ACCESSORIES THAT YOU HAVE THE 4 CUBES, LIGHT BAR, SPEAKERS, DOME ECT THE WIRING IS WHAT SCARES ME THE MOST SO IF YOU DESCRIBED THE DETAILS THAT WOULD BE GREAT. THANKS
PioneerPete
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welcome to the forum @jstreun . I have been very pleased with the light bar and cube set up. The extra light is really nice on night rides.
For the light bar, I drilled holes in the black plastic and used the mounting brackets and bolts/nuts that came with the light bar. I'd be glad to answer any specific questions about the wiring. It's not too hard, but it is fairly time consuming to install everything.
J
Ok so the plastic is what the light is secured to? Wasn't sure if it would be strong enough to fasten it to. Did the cubes come with hardware to secure to rops. Thanks again for info
PioneerPete
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Sorry I didn't get back with you sooner, was out of town all week. Yes, the bar is mounted directly to the black plastic, and it is plenty strong. The front cubes are mounted using the fender bolt holes. had to get longer bolts to make it work. picked the bolts up at o'reileys. the rear cubes are mounted to the net attachment brackets that came factory welded to the rops.
PioneerPete
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Ok folks, if you still haven't done this, git'er done... wish I hadn't waited so long... get a good quality automotive window shade with some stiffness/thickness. Tuck it up under the black plastic piece thats between the lower and upper seat cushions and then reinsert the 8mm push/pins. Trim to fit. It was very easy.
PioneerPete
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This heat shield under the seat combined with the other insulation I've already done on the plastic pieces between the seat cushions has eliminated a significant amount of heat and noise in the cab. Like I said above, I wish I hadn't waited so long. Highly recommend this modification to anyone who is concerned about the heat/noise in the cab.
J
So light bar instal went ok except bolt on driver side was tuff a hell to get to and then my brackets interferd with hood so had to modify hood a tad but all good. winch in as well but was checking your pics and didnt see the silenoid or the circuit breaker that came with winch in pics are they hidden. Hope you dont mind question? I a rookie at the wiring which ill start next week i guess when as switches, isolator, pdm battery come in? I ll need some help?? looking at your pics at those blades on back of switches.WOW where to start lol
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PioneerPete
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haha... no worries... glad to help. glad you were able to get the light bar and hood to cooperate. are you gonna share any pics with us?lol
the winch solenoid is front and center between the radiator overflow jug and the front hood bumper. it has 2 large black wires coming out from under the cover, one with a yellow wrap and the other with a blue wrap. it also has a large red wire coming to it from the aux battery. not sure what "circuit breaker" you are referring to... I have a circuit breaker between the 2 batteries. also called an isolator. it is located on the drivers side of the under hood area and has a large red wire coming to it from each battery.
as for the switches, I recommend doing a little youtube research. I learned everything I needed to know after watching a couple of youtube videos.
good luck! feel free to ask any questions... lots of knowledgeable folks here on the forum! and share some pics!
PioneerPete
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Delton
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I like that!! Totally stealing that from you soon as I get the chance
Nice mod.....I bought one....if it's not enough I'll just add another and splice into original one
PioneerPete
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my home trails have lots of technical sections that require slower speeds, and even with the heat shielding and insulation that I had installed, the heat was unbearable this summer. every person who rode with me recently complained about the heat... it truly was unbearable, and I had to find a remedy or just park the dang thing until summer was over...very happy to report that the blowers solved the problem! rode for several hours this weekend, and never felt like a dragon was blowing fire up my back! the blowers made a huge difference.
I think I figured out what was happening. the area under the seat is a high point above the engine and exhaust manifold... the heat rises and collects in that high point, and if not blown out by higher speeds or a blower, becomes the source of the dragons breath. Based on my experience with this, I don't believe that any amount of insulation or sealing will solve the problem... If you ride consistently at slower speeds during the warmer months, you will probably want to install a blower (or two). The beauty of this solution is that you can turn the blowers off in the winter when the dragon is your friend!
PioneerPete
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Delton
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Pretty sure he has the same ones as me. 3" attwood units from Amazon. Less than 34 bucks for both of them. They work too.
PioneerPete
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PioneerPete
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They are both Attwood. And like you said, relatively cheap.
I got a 3" that is h2o resistant, and a 4" that is "quiet"... I wasn't sure how much blowing it would take, so I installed both. So far, no issues with either.
I never ran them separately, so I don't know if the "quiet" one is actually any quieter.
The water resistant one was built the same as the other one except it had some heat shrink over the back of the motor where the wires come out. They're both pretty well protected underneath the seat, so I don't expect to have any issues with either one.
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