P500 Torq locker install

[mdavenpo]

Hello All, I installed the locker over the weekend and have everything put together but not tightened down, except for the dif , it is torqued to service manual spec's. I disassembled using TJoffroads description, but ended up switching to the AMR install video install. (tell you why later)
Quick question, should I go back and loctite every fastener(A arms, tie rod ends, shocks etc.) and also the ones on the dif case? Some bolts had Red or Blue.
I screwed up a couple things along the way during the install that set me back time wise that i had to fix. I'll detail that in a write up when I'm done that I hope may help other by not repeating... live & learn.
Thanks,
Mark

 

[Admin]

 

[Mudder]

No loctite done here. All good after 16 months of bumps.

 

[Chooglin]

No loctite on mine either!

 

[trigger]

Me either and I don't torque anything, just make it tight. ( Not apprentice tight though )

 

[Gassygordo]

I used ZERO Loctite.

 

[tomcj2]

I was actually thinking of using anti-seize on some of the bolts but didn't do so.
As I understand it, use Loctite if you will NEVER have to take it apart and anti-seize on something that has to be taken apart from time to time for normal servicing, otherwise, use nothing

 

[70Bones]

I was actually thinking of using anti-seize on some of the bolts but didn't do so.
As I understand it, use Loctite if you will NEVER have to take it apart and anti-seize on something that has to be taken apart from time to time for normal servicing, otherwise, use nothing

There's a bit more to it than that... blue loctite on threads just makes sure the nut or bolt will not vibrate loose, but can be removed with wrenches easily. Red loctite comes in different "model #s" and is for more permanent or important applications, as in different model #s require you to heat the threads to a certain temp to release the glue. Some as low as 150 degrees, others as much as 500 degrees to release. Then there's the bees wax release agent, but that is another chapter, maybe you can google it.

 

[TJoffroad]

I'm curious on what went wrong with the disassembly/assembly. If there is a better way, we need to get the info out to others.

 

[mdavenpo]

I'm curious on what went wrong with the disassembly/assembly. If there is a better way, we need to get the info out to others.

Believe me, I have no better way. I have been reading all the replies and was going to wait a few days to jump back in, but I think I owe you an explanation. I will also post a couple pics as well. First let me say that my thought has always been that before I pay someone to do or fix something I should try to do it myself first, if I screw it up, at least I tried, and then fork out the money. Also, I can do my own maintenance, and some small engine repair but this locker install would be my first tear-down of any kind on on a atv, utv, sxs etc.
To begin with, I removed the dif using your method but I had a hard time until I took the tires off, and then it came out. At that point I felt I would not be able to put it back together by myself confidentially by reversing the order, that's my issue and nothing to do with how you did it. What you did most certainly works.
My 2015 machine only has (4) miles on it (different story for another time). It's really clean so I decided now is the time to try doing other things I've never done before fasteners rust etc., so I switched to the AMR method. Doing so meant I learned how to take the A arms, Tie-rod ends, shocks and brakes off (I've never done that). I also had to buy a tap & die set as well as an ez-out kit for screw-ups on my part that I'll share when I'm done. Oh, and a torque wrench that failed didn't help either. Anyway, I basically decided to make it a learning experience, and it was / is. Jason's videos and the peening video by JWB helped immensely, and I would not have attempted this tear down without them.

Also note that I have the service manual and it does state to use thread lock the the (2) 10mm bolts on the dif cover. For all the other frame fasteners I'm considering using anti-seize (what do you guys think?)

Regarding the locker itself... what keeps the (2) small springs from sliding out? Looks like they sit on a shelf with no outer lip to retain them. I will post a pic of my locker, maybe I'm missing something. Also note I forgot to adjust the circlip, but saw a thread on this forum from Torq Masters stating that that step is no longer necessary ,even though they still send out the supplement instructions, I hope this is still accurate.
Lastly, I don't want to hi jack this thread anymore than I already have. Also note that this/your thread also inspired me to do the install, thank you. Maybe you can help me do the power steering kit I'm doing next I hope this follow up helps.

The first pic is right after I pulled the dif following your description, the second pic is as it sits in my garage now with loosely assembled fasteners, the third is my locker installed... do the springs look right?
Thanks.
Mark

 

[TJoffroad]

First off, that is one clean machine. Glad to head that I didn't mislead anyone. As far as the locker springs, the top of the spring appears to be in the groove. The bottom is questionable. Could be the photo angle. I think I remember the springs on mine being captured on both ends. Did your springs snap into place on both ends? If so I think you are good to go. I didn't lock tight or anti-seize anything on my machine. Just tightened with wrenches and elbow torque. You can never go wrong using a torque wrench. I've been building jet engines for almost 30 years now. Use a torque wrench on every fastener. Even the clamp bolts. I tend to not use them at home unless it is a critical bolt. YOU are doing the right thing by using the torque wrench. Also best part of a full teardown is now you understand how everything works. That is critical when it comes to troubleshooting. Get that thing back together and put some miles on it.