Vikes79 longship rebuild thread

Vikes79

Vikes79

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Got the winch reassembled, tested, restrung with some line and mounted to the Talon while I have the front clip off.

Still have to wire it etc.

IMG 6384
 
Vikes79

Vikes79

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Got the front clip back on this afternoon. No more cross eyed headlights. Still have to re aim them.

IMG 6386


Rapidly closing in on the point where I need to make a decision on what I’m going to replace the light bar with and where it’s really mounted. Also need to figure what to do about a winch battery…if at all.
 
Vikes79

Vikes79

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Pulled the right rear door cover off…yeah no fixing that one. Every screw boss is wiped out. The ones remaining are barely on.

Image
Image


Since @Coeus wont donate from his parts pile..I finally broke down and bought a replacement hood and the rr panel with graphics. 🫤 no idea when I’ll receive them from mother Honda via partszilla.
 
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Vikes79

Vikes79

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I have yet to locate any fuses for any of the accessories that the talon came with (light bar, cubes, turn signals, speakers)…so I ordered plan b trigger wire and fuse block from the club store. I’ll make a 40 amp switched block with the winch remote directly hot. Winch switch in cab will be switched. What’s in the photo is what is currently installed.

Going to skip the extra battery for now…I really don’t like the setup on my p1k5…might go bigger car battery later on.

Image

Extra winch wires and solenoid I had laying around

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Vikes79

Vikes79

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Yes, the ole wrap it around the fuse leg trick. Found what appears to be the only fuse used in the entire mess. At least there’s 40 amp relays in use I guess.. The exposed hot leg wire of the relay is awesome. I know a bit nitpicking but atleast run some tape around it.

🤦🏼‍♂️


IMG 6389
IMG 6390



Now I’m wondering how much I should trust the PO wiring…(by the relay on the white wire)
IMG 6391
 
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Vikes79

Vikes79

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The glue residue from the plastic protective sheeting the insurance auction used all over the talon is really starting to piss me off.

On the SATV flip up, the hard coat is completely missing in sections….not a whole bunch can be done with it…the hazy spots are actually lower than the clear. 🤬

You can see on the door panels the leftover residue thats stubbornly slow to remove.

Only thing that seems to be semi working is a heat gun, a wipe with dish soap and hot water followed by wipes from a tub of towels. Wd40 and PB no go..sorry @Todd627 , @J80 .

Probably going to skip this part until it warms up a lot more.

IMG 6396 IMG 6395 IMG 6392

Image
 
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Vikes79

Vikes79

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Drove thru water in my pasture and learned why everyone installs door bottoms and fender flares.

Don’t bother me but Mrs Vikes79….lol

Also learned why everyone is using a shift gate…low doesn’t always want to be in low I quickly realized.


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906UP

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Drove thru water in my pasture and learned why everyone installs door bottoms and fender flares.

Also learned why everyone is using a shift gate…low doesn’t always want to be in low I quickly realized.

I’ll add that to my box stacking list
A shift gate is a must on the early ones, @Coeus yours may be alright, Honda made some updates in the subtrans, not sure about the gate.
 
906UP

906UP

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Any signs I should pay attention to when dealing with shifting to low?
Make sure it's in low and shows "L" on the screen before taking off.....really no different than the P1K. Really shouldn't be an issue for yours, Honda made changes so it stays in low better and less risk of popping out of gear around '22 maybe???? There's plenty of threads on it.
 
Vikes79

Vikes79

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By chance, have you tried "GOO GONE"? I have had good luck on adhesives with it. YMMV.

WB
I’ve chipped away at enough that I have about 1.5 doors left to do. Getting the plastics warmed up with the patio heater really helps.

The flip up windshield…I may try some novus polish on it. Not sure yet.
 
GovtMule

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I’ve chipped away at enough that I have about 1.5 doors left to do. Getting the plastics warmed up with the patio heater really helps.

The flip up windshield…I may try some novus polish on it. Not sure yet.
3m Adhesive Remover has always been my go-to. It’s head and shoulders above all others. Maybe it would work.
 
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