P1000m5 Windrock1000- She’s still sexy!

Windrock1000 submitted a new Garage Item:

Windrock 1000's- She's Foxy Now

View attachment 20119

Read more about this showcase item here...

 

[Admin]

 

[Windrock1000]

The rear arms have begun! Rear width

 

[Admin]

 

[Windrock1000]

Front Width

 

[Windrock1000]

Right rear

 

[Windrock1000]

Oops I left something off!

 

[CumminsPusher]

View attachment 37205 View attachment 37206 Oops I left something off!

Ya opps


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[Windrock1000]

Finally finished!

 

[amc019]

I hope to do the same thing with the removal of the sway bar/ Fox shocks combo in the future, looking forward to seeing how it handles at speed around corners.

 

[Eltobgi]

Looks Good!

How about a picture of your adjustments with a tape measure for reference?

 

[harrelljr99]

I hope to do the same thing with the removal of the sway bar/ Fox shocks combo in the future, looking forward to seeing how it handles at speed around corners.

What was the reason for getting rid of the sway bar?


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[Windrock1000]

Looks Good!

How about a picture of your adjustments with a tape measure for reference?

Super top secret.
Are you running a high Lifter bracket lift?

 

[Eltobgi]

I am! Have 1" spacers on the way and 4x3 offset rims with 28x10x14 tires! So what do you think? Share your super top secret photos?

 

[Windrock1000]

This will get you really close with High Lifter bracket in place!

 

[Eltobgi]

Thanks appreciate it! Your a good man! So how does it ride?

 

[snuffnwhisky]

Looks Good!

How about a picture of your adjustments with a tape measure for reference?

One thing I should have done is put an angle finder on the hub when stock at full droop and matched that with the new arms on to get the camber set with out having to put the wheels on and drop it and roll it, multiple times... Can put a straight edge on the hub before and after and measure to the frame in the same spot for the toe setting.

 

[Windrock1000]

Thanks appreciate it! Your a good man! So how does it ride?

Been storming here really bad. So no test ride today. Its a two man job if you want to do it with speed. I got 3.5 hours in it. Really time consuming get caster and camber adjustments. Took 3 times and I'm still not happy yet. The directions they come with are ok. The 10mm starting number is really off when you running the lift. It did take out the camber problem associated with bracket lifts. My camber in at -1 degree and neural on caster right now. The numbers I listed is where I'm going next.

****You do not have to take out the axle nut to change the a-arms just use a racket strap to hold the a-arms up. I did lower first then upper. You may have to take a hammer to the frame brackets that hold the a-arm. One of the arms was about 1/16' out from lining up.

When you do adjustment you have to take the bottom shock bolt out and both lower a-arm bolts out. Lift the hub up and pull the lower a-arm out. The pivot block on has about 1.25' -1.5"' of threads.

Sway bar removal was only 4 bolts and 4 nuts on the end links. I going to have to dial in some preload on the drivers side to compensate for the sway bar. The added weight of the battery on the set and the driver makes it droop on the drivers side.

 

[snuffnwhisky]

Make sure the axle doesn't pop out of the differential also...

 

[Windrock1000]

One thing I should have done is put an angle finder on the hub when stock at full droop and matched that with the new arms on to get the camber set with out having to put the wheels on and drop it and roll it, multiple times... Can put a straight edge on the hub before and after and measure to the frame in the same spot for the toe setting.

My camber start was +6 at full droop with stock a-arms. 0 degrees at full droop with superatv arms.

 

[Eltobgi]

Thanks! I noticed you saved some time doing it this way! Makes sense! Appreciate all your effort and advice!

 

[Windrock1000]

What was the reason for getting rid of the sway bar?


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More traction... Hopefully.

 

[Windrock1000]

Very true, some people will really love the multiple adjustment options. Elka stage 5 has the most adjustment, W/E is in the middle and Fox is the most simple. However, we aren't driving sport vehicles so Fox should get a good look due to price, most simple, the only to have dual rate coils, and the Fox name and service is top notch.

I'm in the same boat and still haven't bought any. I'll admit that I looked hard at Elka but after seeing snuff spend a lot of time adjusting and me not make any adjustments, that spoke to me.

I can't wait until he gets his retuned shocks back from Elka, I'm anxious to see if they are worth the high price tag.

Also, I followed pioneerpete thru AMA the other day and judging from following him, his vehicle looked to ride very nice with stage 5 Elkas.

Sorry for the rambling, I'm just throwing out random thoughts on this topic.

My main reason to go with Fox was it was designed for the machine. Years of motocross racing on totally custom shocks with triple rate springs with all the adjustments of stage 5's- adjustability will drive you nuts! Picking the right click or spring will only make you fast on one style of trail or track. By the way they can be sent back to Fox for the upgrades to be comparable to the stages 5's for about the same money you would have in the Elkas. Fox can't sell you the shock but they can service and upgrade. Just saying!