4in. Chop steps

Hcrr1

Hcrr1

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Back in June I posted hcrr1 build that included the 4in. Chop. Sorry for taking so long for detailed chop. It took a Saturday and part of Sunday to complete.
Contrary to some thinking you have to add length in the top bars at 4in. You do not. And the factory too will go right back on with no modifications. I also have steps on cutting and using honda flip out windshield.
I started at front and move to back. Cut six 4 in. Peices out. Sleeved each section with a 4 in. Sleeve.
#1View attachment 21879 View attachment 21880 0625161443a
For the passenger front mark cage cage 2.5 in. Above. Bung weld. Then Mark off 4in. I used a billet roll bar clamp to scribe straight line all the way around both marks to get straight line. Cut 4in. Section out.
Use a 4in. Sleeve marh 2in. Center slide sleeve 2in. In. slide two bars back together.
For the drivers side I cut the 4in. Out around middle of windshield bar. Do the same for cutting and sleeving. Slide pieces together.
Reinstal front bars lightly tighten so they the bungs aren't tight.
Screenshot 2016 09 11 10 34 45 0625161538
#2
Remove center main loop.
You have to cut and grind welds off to remove the cross bar headrest. It has to be repostioned. Then clean up weld smooth.
0625161631 0625161609

Mark both sides 3 in. Obove the top weld on nutsert on inside of cage on both sides. Mark off 4 in. Cut 4in. Out. Sleeve ,put back altogether. Also the weld on net nut braket above the cross bar you remove must be removed. And repositioned if you use nets. Another note the middle cage is thicker steel. The front is the thinnest. The back section is in between. You might have to cut the sleeve down the middle if you don't have the exact size.
Screenshot 2016 09 11 11 11 32 Screenshot 2016 09 11 11 12 05
Put center section back in bolt lightly together
Now put cross bar back in takes a little muscle and a couple pry bars. Put 12mm boost back in lightly.
Screenshot 2016 09 11 11 42 00
Screenshot 2016 09 11 13 24 07

#3
Now for the rear section.
Mark the left and right upright bars around the bottom of tailite. Remove rear section. I took the center out for easier handling.
Cut 4in. Out of each side from your marks upward. Sleeve. put back together.
Now bolt everything together start tightening everything down tight do your aligning as you tighten. A little muscle at the rear at bottom I used a drift pin. To align hole up for bolts. Screenshot 2016 09 11 14 38 41

Once everything is tightened and line up to your satisfaction. Tack weld then weld splices. Grind welds. I used a 1/2 in. Belt sander to finish welds off smooth. Little sanding to feather powdercoat out metal etch primer. Pant some gloss blackout. I'll have it powdercoated later.
0625161938b

Use welding blankets if you have them. They don't burn and keeps things from getting melted.
Next you can install roof. Just clamp it back on. 0625161840a

So I hope this was detailed enough. Was flying blind on this when I decided to do this at 11am on a Saturday morning loaded it up took it to shop. Took accessories off around 2pm. Started marking and cutting. At 11pm was painting cage. Sunday put back together took it home.
All in all everything went well. The only part that took a little muscle to line bolts to was the lower rear. But their is no bending or binding anything. With the sleeves it's a very strong mod. Sorry took so long to write up not enough hours in a day. Hope this helps.
0626161642
0626161642d

I will post the windshield cutting and steps in the near future I need to get some better pics. But the winsheild is fully functional. Post it in a couple weeks.
Screenshot 2016 09 11 11 11 29
 
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Eltobgi

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Interesting thread! I am not much of a welder, but I feel confident in my ability to get her to the stage where it should be welded! How do you feel about camouflage gorilla tape as an alternative to weldingo_O I think I've got a couple rolls in the garage:)
 
Eltobgi

Eltobgi

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@Eltobgi.
Not sure camo will hold up. Might should go with the pink.
Good thinking! Hot Pink Gorilla Tape;) lol. But seriously the chop doesn't look bad. I know a guy, who knows a guy, who makes people offers they can't refuse!:eek: I might be able to get her chopped by PT17:rolleyes:
 
Delton

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Great write up. You make it look really easy. Still not a fan of the chop, but to each his own. Great job.
 
CumminsPusher

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Glad to see the sleeves that's important for anyone thinking of doing it. Good write up nicely done!
 
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Revtech100

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Hmmmmm. Something to consider. It would fit it the toy hauler much nicer.
 
pct

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Great post nicely detailed Good work and Thanks for the info
Paul
 
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vwbmx219

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What diameter pipe did you use for the sleeves?

Sent from my SM-N900P using Tapatalk
 
pct

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Hey Hc good job ob the chop But I have a question was the reason for the offset cut on the front tubes for strength or alignment reasons
and did top top come out level cutting 4" front and back was wondering because of the angles being different on the front and the back and
a big Thank You for all this info on chopping the top
Paul
 
Hcrr1

Hcrr1

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I used 1 5/8. The problem is the front middle and rear sections are different cauge thickness.
The front it slid in nicely
The middle section is the heaviest cauge and the rear is in between front and middle.
For the middle and rear I cut a slice down the sleeves so they would squeeze down at tapped them in
 
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Hcrr1

Hcrr1

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Paul the reason for offset really isn't one on the passenger side I did it under the grab handle so I could keep it on there..
The top came out level roof went right back on.
 
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pct

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Thanks for the info and the pic looks better than stock and I can also tell that you are very good at what you do and are very skilled at it Thanks for the help
Paul
 
CumminsPusher

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Excellent write up, The cage seems super high on these. Thanks for this.
If you drop the front an inch more it'll allow water to run off of the roof and not puddle up in front. Makes a nice visor during heavy sun too lol
 
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