P500 A faster P5, it is possible.....gearing increase

[Spellmajr]

I did hit the speedometer cutout yesterday at 42 but real gps said 49mph. First time I’ve hit in 400+ miles after doing this mod.

 

[Spellmajr]

What size tire are most of you running. I will need some Within a year. I ride a lot of pavement and good solid trails. Not a lot of deep mud for this guy. I currently have p700 pulloffs. They aren’t a bad tire. 25” diameter and I can get a brand new set from our local Honda place for $300 with the stock wheels.

 

[monaco]

27

What size tire are most of you running. I will need some Within a year. I ride a lot of pavement and good solid trails. Not a lot of deep mud for this guy. I currently have p700 pulloffs. They aren’t a bad tire. 25” diameter and I can get a brand new set from our local Honda place for $300 with the stock wheels.

27" STI BLack Diamond - No frame mod. It's my opinions that 27" should be the stock size for this machine. Top speed 41mph downhill with the wind at my back

 

[906UP]

What size tire are most of you running. I will need some Within a year. I ride a lot of pavement and good solid trails. Not a lot of deep mud for this guy. I currently have p700 pulloffs. They aren’t a bad tire. 25” diameter and I can get a brand new set from our local Honda place for $300 with the stock wheels.

I had 27" Terrabites when I did the mod, sold them shortly after...too heavy for the new gearing. Thinking I'll get a set of 25" Bighorns for it in the spring

 

[Mike49]

Kudos to @906UP and a few others , that are so willing to jump in and help the ones that are doing this mod!

From a PM from one of the member's, he ran into some trouble but we worked through it.


It turned out that the thrust washer that is on the reverse lockout shaft fell off during disassembly and was mistakenly put on the starter drive idler shaft during re-assembly, this caused the starter drive to be bound up......NO START.

View attachment 148466

First off, if you're not comfortable with tearing into the engine internals STOP right here & hit the back button. This isn't what most would consider an easy modification.

If you're still reading.....

Like many others I thought the P5 was geared extremely low from the factory, at the rev limit in 5th gear, I was able to squeak out 40mph on GPS with 27" tires. It really felt like there should be another gear. The intent was not to make the P5 into something it's not....sport SxS racer, I just wanted to bring the engine RPMs down at trail speeds, we ride a lot of forest roads, gravel roads, etc to get from one section to another UP here.

Parts needed

• GEAR, FINAL DRIVE (25T) Honda # 23621-HP7-A00 from RMATV ,$33.19
  
• GEAR, FINAL DRIVEN (37T)) Honda #23631-HP7-A00 from RMATV ,$22.12
  
• SpeedoDRD, SpeedoDRD , $79.95
• A shim for the speed sensor, approx 2.76mm or .108" works well (HD 6mm flat washer)
• A tube of Permatex Motoseal or similiar. This is what Honda uses to seal engine/diff cases. Don't use regular silicone, it will leak.
• Oil & filter

Tools needed

• A set of 1/4" & 3/8" metric sockets, ratchets & various extensions
• A set of metric allen wrenches
• A set of metric combinations wrenches
• Can of brake clean & rags for clean up
• Bench grinder/right angle grinder to clearance the counter shaft gear if necessary

View attachment 81888

Here's what we will be changing, #2 & #3

Start by draining the oil.

Although I did it without loosening the front diff I'd recommend doing this. I may have damaged the front seal. This will take the preload off the final shaft from the front driveshaft otherwise it will want to push the final shaft backwards. Removing the top diff case bolt and the two bolts on the front of the diff to frame. Pulling the diff forwards will remove the preload.

Getting to the back of the engine is a bit of a chore, you need to pull the rear engine cover so start by removing the rear rack, 4 bolts on each side and one electrical connector on the passenger side for the taillights. This is a good time to disconnect and pull the battery.

View attachment 81809

Remove the air box, exhaust shield, throttle body. Disconnect the speed sensor, angle sensor, stator & pick up wiring. Unbolt the battery box and lay all wiring out of the way. This gives you access from the passenger side. Remove the speed sensor, 10mm socket and the angle sensor, 2 4mm allen wrench. Remove the reverse lockout cable & lever on the bottom of the engine, 10mm socket.

Pull the rear brake caliper & unbolt the rotor from the driveshaft hub, 6mm allen wrench. Rotor must be unbolted to provide enough room to get the clear the frame. Pull the 3 bolts that hold the rear diff so it can be moved back far enough to get the rear driveshaft off the final shaft at the back of the engine.

View attachment 81883

After pulling the throttle body out place a clean rag or paper towel in the intake, you really don't want to drop something in there!!!! (Green arrow)

Disconnect & pull the starter motor out, 10mm socket (Red arrows). Now you can start pulling the bolts out of the rear cover. (Yellow arrows, these go all the way around the cover, not just on top!)

View attachment 81884

The 2 gears being changed are on the left, the top is the counter shaft from the transmission, the bottom is for the final shaft, this shaft runs through the engine and connects to both F&R driveshafts.


Once the cover is removed the 2 gears will slide off their shafts, watch for the thrust washer on the counter shaft gear, you will need to reuse it.

View attachment 81885

Top gears are the old ones, 2016 & older are 16T/30T for a ratio of 1.875
(The OEM gears for the 2017 & newer are 22T/40T for a ratio of 1.818....more on this below)
Bottom gears are the new ones, 25T/37T for a ratio of 1.48

View attachment 81886

There is some minor interference with the new 25T gear and the case, you could grind the case a little but I chose to "clearance" gear a little bit on one side. The area that I ground is above the pitchline of the gear so I have no concerns about a decrease in strength.

View attachment 81887

Once everything is fit you can start reassembly.


Clean the edges of the cases, I recommend brake clean to get the oil & old sealant off, apply moto seal and reverse procedure. Keep in mind that there are 2 longer & 1 shorter bolts in the cover. The rest are the same length. Take care to make sure the shift sensor is lined up correctly, this will be a shaft about 1/4" with a small pin thru it. You may need to shim the speed sensor, I ended up putting a 6mm HD flat washer under the mounting tab to get the correct spacing to the new counter shaft gear. I added a little Motoseal around the sensor to prevent leaks.


OK.... so it's back together and full of oil but now we have to trick the ECU, otherwise you will get the dreaded "--" on the dash. This is where the SpeedoDRD comes into play. One end plugs into the speed sensor & the other into the P5 harness. It is easily programmed following their instructions on the website. Depending on the year of your P5 the settings will be in the -36% range for 2016 & older(16T gear) or -12% range for 2017 & newer(22T gear). The trick is to get the signal to the ECU to match the previous gearing.... on mine the old gear had 16T, the new has 25T. Keep in mind the speedometer/odometer will no longer be accurate, mine shows a speed of 40mph while the GPS shows 48mph.

View attachment 81836

Now I get 48mph on GPS and haven't hit the rev limit, I may try the OEM tires/wheels just to see.... How does it feel on the trails? It feels like I've dropped L gear and added 6th, I'm running the trails in a gear lower than previously while also going faster.

Here's a couple Youtube videos from @dpnorth during his install....

*Update #1* 7/23/18
During doing this mod I found the final shaft wanted to push out....towards the back, I wasn't really sure why at the time but I did the Torq Locker tonight and it dawned on me. The preload from the front driveshaft was pushing the final shaft out. In doing so it may have damaged the front seal. I will update the procedure above accordingly.

*Update #2* 7/25/18
I've put about 100 miles on it since the mod, I couldn't be more pleased. L gear is still incredibly low but it's usable now, before I would just skip over it. No lack of power going up hills, still climbing the same big hill across the road from my house in 3rd. Now I can run down the edge of the road at 40-42mph without it sounding like it's coming apart. I do have to change the front seal on the final shaft, it's leaking, hoping the Honda dealer has one in stock.

*Update #3 7/26/18
I replaced the damaged front output shaft seal, fairly simple job, took a couple hours.

*Update #4* 7/28/18
I swapped the original 24" tires on for a test, 46mph GPS / 42mph on dash, still haven't hit the limiter.

*Update #5* 7/31/18
I've put about 200 miles on since the swap, no issues. We did an evening ride last night, used the stock 24" tires, it did much better in the sand/mud than with the 27's. The Terrabites are heavy and robbing too much power when it gets bogged down w this gearing. Might look for a set of lightweight 25"or 26" rubber, I think that may be the optimal size for this set up. Found the rev limit in 5th for the 1st time, 43-44mph on the dash / 47-48mph on GPS.

*Update #6* 10/30/18
Another member @Duckhunt did this mod and had an issue getting the speed sensor spacing correct, after a few messages and some measuring we found that the "spacer" under the speed sensor it sorta critical.
From @Duckhunt
"I just wanted to put in a follow-up note in here in case people are considering this or following. The gears work awesome, Low is unnoticeable change (to me) and now in 5th upper 30's mph to low 40's mph is a pleasant cruise. But I had speedo calibration/ speed sensor reading issues causing an irratic speedometer, with and without the SpeedoDRD, and electronic-delayed shifting. On upshifts it would wait a good half second after the shift before firing the injector again. First, I thank @906UP for very much appreciated help. The new drive gear is APPROXIMATELY 5mm or .2" larger OD, or 2.5mm/.1" radius. This is an approximation by measuring the factory "old" gear and using pictures and CAD for calculating a size difference ratio of the two gears, neither of us ripped apart the case and measured the new larger gear. Now, @906UP is using a .1085" or 2.76mm spacer under the speed sensor, and I was using three .047" washers for .141" or 3.58mm total. I was .0325" or .82mm further spaced from the new driven gear. After installing a same sized spacer as @906UP I have corrected the speedo and shift-delay issues. The speed sensor spacing is that critical.

If you do this mod be sure the speed sensor has clearance, but also do not space too far. Unfortunately we do not know the exact tolerance of a spacer but .094" or 2.39mm (two of my washers) is interference, .1085"or 2.76mm works, and .141" or 3.58mm is too much. Again this is for the speed sensor spacing. Thanks again to @906UP for all the help."

*Update #7* 2/21/19
I have a few of the "special" washers I used as a spacer for the speed sensor. It is a heavy duty version of a 6mm flat washer that just happens to be the correct thickness. At the moment I only have a couple but can probably find more if needed. If anyone is planning to do this mod send me a PM with your address and I'll send you one for free if you make a small donation to the site.

First off, if you're not comfortable with tearing into the engine internals STOP right here & hit the back button. This isn't what most would consider an easy modification.

If you're still reading.....

Like many others I thought the P5 was geared extremely low from the factory, at the rev limit in 5th gear, I was able to squeak out 40mph on GPS with 27" tires. It really felt like there should be another gear. The intent was not to make the P5 into something it's not....sport SxS racer, I just wanted to bring the engine RPMs down at trail speeds, we ride a lot of forest roads, gravel roads, etc to get from one section to another UP here.

Parts needed

• GEAR, FINAL DRIVE (25T) Honda # 23621-HP7-A00 from RMATV ,$33.19
  
• GEAR, FINAL DRIVEN (37T)) Honda #23631-HP7-A00 from RMATV ,$22.12
  
• SpeedoDRD, SpeedoDRD , $79.95
• A shim for the speed sensor, approx 2.76mm or .108" works well (HD 6mm flat washer)
• A tube of Permatex Motoseal or similiar. This is what Honda uses to seal engine/diff cases. Don't use regular silicone, it will leak.
• Oil & filter

Tools needed

• A set of 1/4" & 3/8" metric sockets, ratchets & various extensions
• A set of metric allen wrenches
• A set of metric combinations wrenches
• Can of brake clean & rags for clean up
• Bench grinder/right angle grinder to clearance the counter shaft gear if necessary

View attachment 81888

Here's what we will be changing, #2 & #3

Start by draining the oil.

Although I did it without loosening the front diff I'd recommend doing this. I may have damaged the front seal. This will take the preload off the final shaft from the front driveshaft otherwise it will want to push the final shaft backwards. Removing the top diff case bolt and the two bolts on the front of the diff to frame. Pulling the diff forwards will remove the preload.

Getting to the back of the engine is a bit of a chore, you need to pull the rear engine cover so start by removing the rear rack, 4 bolts on each side and one electrical connector on the passenger side for the taillights. This is a good time to disconnect and pull the battery.

View attachment 81809

Remove the air box, exhaust shield, throttle body. Disconnect the speed sensor, angle sensor, stator & pick up wiring. Unbolt the battery box and lay all wiring out of the way. This gives you access from the passenger side. Remove the speed sensor, 10mm socket and the angle sensor, 2 4mm allen wrench. Remove the reverse lockout cable & lever on the bottom of the engine, 10mm socket.

Pull the rear brake caliper & unbolt the rotor from the driveshaft hub, 6mm allen wrench. Rotor must be unbolted to provide enough room to get the clear the frame. Pull the 3 bolts that hold the rear diff so it can be moved back far enough to get the rear driveshaft off the final shaft at the back of the engine.

View attachment 81883

After pulling the throttle body out place a clean rag or paper towel in the intake, you really don't want to drop something in there!!!! (Green arrow)

Disconnect & pull the starter motor out, 10mm socket (Red arrows). Now you can start pulling the bolts out of the rear cover. (Yellow arrows, these go all the way around the cover, not just on top!)

View attachment 81884

The 2 gears being changed are on the left, the top is the counter shaft from the transmission, the bottom is for the final shaft, this shaft runs through the engine and connects to both F&R driveshafts.


Once the cover is removed the 2 gears will slide off their shafts, watch for the thrust washer on the counter shaft gear, you will need to reuse it.

View attachment 81885

Top gears are the old ones, 2016 & older are 16T/30T for a ratio of 1.875
(The OEM gears for the 2017 & newer are 22T/40T for a ratio of 1.818....more on this below)
Bottom gears are the new ones, 25T/37T for a ratio of 1.48

View attachment 81886

There is some minor interference with the new 25T gear and the case, you could grind the case a little but I chose to "clearance" gear a little bit on one side. The area that I ground is above the pitchline of the gear so I have no concerns about a decrease in strength.

View attachment 81887

Once everything is fit you can start reassembly.


Clean the edges of the cases, I recommend brake clean to get the oil & old sealant off, apply moto seal and reverse procedure. Keep in mind that there are 2 longer & 1 shorter bolts in the cover. The rest are the same length. Take care to make sure the shift sensor is lined up correctly, this will be a shaft about 1/4" with a small pin thru it. You may need to shim the speed sensor, I ended up putting a 6mm HD flat washer under the mounting tab to get the correct spacing to the new counter shaft gear. I added a little Motoseal around the sensor to prevent leaks.


OK.... so it's back together and full of oil but now we have to trick the ECU, otherwise you will get the dreaded "--" on the dash. This is where the SpeedoDRD comes into play. One end plugs into the speed sensor & the other into the P5 harness. It is easily programmed following their instructions on the website. Depending on the year of your P5 the settings will be in the -36% range for 2016 & older(16T gear) or -12% range for 2017 & newer(22T gear). The trick is to get the signal to the ECU to match the previous gearing.... on mine the old gear had 16T, the new has 25T. Keep in mind the speedometer/odometer will no longer be accurate, mine shows a speed of 40mph while the GPS shows 48mph.

View attachment 81836

Now I get 48mph on GPS and haven't hit the rev limit, I may try the OEM tires/wheels just to see.... How does it feel on the trails? It feels like I've dropped L gear and added 6th, I'm running the trails in a gear lower than previously while also going faster.

Here's a couple Youtube videos from @dpnorth during his install....

*Update #1* 7/23/18
During doing this mod I found the final shaft wanted to push out....towards the back, I wasn't really sure why at the time but I did the Torq Locker tonight and it dawned on me. The preload from the front driveshaft was pushing the final shaft out. In doing so it may have damaged the front seal. I will update the procedure above accordingly.

*Update #2* 7/25/18
I've put about 100 miles on it since the mod, I couldn't be more pleased. L gear is still incredibly low but it's usable now, before I would just skip over it. No lack of power going up hills, still climbing the same big hill across the road from my house in 3rd. Now I can run down the edge of the road at 40-42mph without it sounding like it's coming apart. I do have to change the front seal on the final shaft, it's leaking, hoping the Honda dealer has one in stock.

*Update #3 7/26/18
I replaced the damaged front output shaft seal, fairly simple job, took a couple hours.

*Update #4* 7/28/18
I swapped the original 24" tires on for a test, 46mph GPS / 42mph on dash, still haven't hit the limiter.

*Update #5* 7/31/18
I've put about 200 miles on since the swap, no issues. We did an evening ride last night, used the stock 24" tires, it did much better in the sand/mud than with the 27's. The Terrabites are heavy and robbing too much power when it gets bogged down w this gearing. Might look for a set of lightweight 25"or 26" rubber, I think that may be the optimal size for this set up. Found the rev limit in 5th for the 1st time, 43-44mph on the dash / 47-48mph on GPS.

*Update #6* 10/30/18
Another member @Duckhunt did this mod and had an issue getting the speed sensor spacing correct, after a few messages and some measuring we found that the "spacer" under the speed sensor it sorta critical.
From @Duckhunt
"I just wanted to put in a follow-up note in here in case people are considering this or following. The gears work awesome, Low is unnoticeable change (to me) and now in 5th upper 30's mph to low 40's mph is a pleasant cruise. But I had speedo calibration/ speed sensor reading issues causing an irratic speedometer, with and without the SpeedoDRD, and electronic-delayed shifting. On upshifts it would wait a good half second after the shift before firing the injector again. First, I thank @906UP for very much appreciated help. The new drive gear is APPROXIMATELY 5mm or .2" larger OD, or 2.5mm/.1" radius. This is an approximation by measuring the factory "old" gear and using pictures and CAD for calculating a size difference ratio of the two gears, neither of us ripped apart the case and measured the new larger gear. Now, @906UP is using a .1085" or 2.76mm spacer under the speed sensor, and I was using three .047" washers for .141" or 3.58mm total. I was .0325" or .82mm further spaced from the new driven gear. After installing a same sized spacer as @906UP I have corrected the speedo and shift-delay issues. The speed sensor spacing is that critical.

If you do this mod be sure the speed sensor has clearance, but also do not space too far. Unfortunately we do not know the exact tolerance of a spacer but .094" or 2.39mm (two of my washers) is interference, .1085"or 2.76mm works, and .141" or 3.58mm is too much. Again this is for the speed sensor spacing. Thanks again to @906UP for all the help."

*Update #7* 2/21/19
I have a few of the "special" washers I used as a spacer for the speed sensor. It is a heavy duty version of a 6mm flat washer that just happens to be the correct thickness. At the moment I only have a couple but can probably find more if needed. If anyone is planning to do this mod send me a PM with your address and I'll send you one for free if you make a small donation to the site.

 

[Mike49]

I had 27" Terrabites when I did the mod, sold them shortly after...too heavy for the new gearing. Thinking I'll get a set of 25" Bighorns for it in the spring

From a PM from one of the member's, he ran into some trouble but we worked through it.

Just wondering, new to the P500 and love tinkering. Not into speed so much but wondering if this gearing change is worth it to decrease the noise? My dog insists on going and anything I can do to lower the dB would probably be worthy!

It turned out that the thrust washer that is on the reverse lockout shaft fell off during disassembly and was mistakenly put on the starter drive idler shaft during re-assembly, this caused the starter drive to be bound up......NO START.

View attachment 148466

 

[Mike49]

Just wondering, new to the P500 and love tinkering. Not into speed so much but wondering if this gearing change is worth it to decrease the noise? My dog insists on going and anything I can do to lower the dB would probably be worthy!

 

[dpnorth]

Just wondering, new to the P500 and love tinkering. Not into speed so much but wondering if this gearing change is worth it to decrease the noise? My dog insists on going and anything I can do to lower the dB would probably be worthy!

I think so. Less gear whine noise behind the seat. I think this is due to the finer teeth on the rancher gears. Lower rpms always nice when it comes to noise. On my 27” tires, i can putter around in 3rd and it sounds like a Honda should. Reminds me of my old Fourtrax 300.

I have been asked by a couple folks to do a ‘part 3’ to the you tube vids, and ill try to capture noise and gps speed vs dash when i do it.

 

[906UP]

Just wondering, new to the P500 and love tinkering. Not into speed so much but wondering if this gearing change is worth it to decrease the noise? My dog insists on going and anything I can do to lower the dB would probably be worthy!

That's the main reason I came up with this, top speed was just a way to measure the difference. I noticed a reduction in the noise but it's still noisy, whether it's worth it is up to you.

 

[trigger]

Just wondering, new to the P500 and love tinkering. Not into speed so much but wondering if this gearing change is worth it to decrease the noise? My dog insists on going and anything I can do to lower the dB would probably be worthy!

P500 - For Sale: Rubber Noise/Heat Shield

 

[washingtonnnn]

Welp, I finally got the p5 into the shop to test different values on the speedodrd and get it to stop going into limp mode. I put it up on blocks and had a helper drive while I worked the speedodrd device. I tried every value from -25.9 to -36.9. Nothing worked. Got the (-) symbol every time. Can't find the magic number.

I have a 2016, and got the appropriate gears, so should be in that range. I played with the numbers, trying very small numbers and very large numbers to see if the device actually does anything, and seems to work.

Anyone have any ideas what the problem is??? The only thing I think I could have done wrong during install is putting the special washer in. Could this be my problem? Anyone else unable to find the magic number?

 

[906UP]

Welp, I finally got the p5 into the shop to test different values on the speedodrd and get it to stop going into limp mode. I put it up on blocks and had a helper drive while I worked the speedodrd device. I tried every value from -25.9 to -36.9. Nothing worked. Got the (-) symbol every time. Can't find the magic number.

I have a 2016, and got the appropriate gears, so should be in that range. I played with the numbers, trying very small numbers and very large numbers to see if the device actually does anything, and seems to work.

Anyone have any ideas what the problem is??? The only thing I think I could have done wrong during install is putting the special washer in. Could this be my problem? Anyone else unable to find the magic number?

A 2016 (without auto shift) should be in the -33% to -35% range, it doesnt have to be exact. The spacing for the speed sensor is critical. Did I send you the washer? Did you put the washer under the hold down tab on the sensor? The washer should move the sensor upwards....away from the gear. If the sensor is too close it will rub, too far away will get erratic signals.

 

[washingtonnnn]

A 2016 (without auto shift) should be in the -33% to -35% range, it doesnt have to be exact. The spacing for the speed sensor is critical. Did I send you the washer? Did you put the washer under the hold down tab on the sensor? The washer should move the sensor upwards....away from the gear. If the sensor is too close it will rub, too far away will get erratic signals.

Yes I got the washer, but that must be the problem. For some reason I was having trouble with this. Unfortunately, I don't think I'll ever rip this thing apart and get inside the case again...

 

[Duckhunt]

Welp, I finally got the p5 into the shop to test different values on the speedodrd and get it to stop going into limp mode. I put it up on blocks and had a helper drive while I worked the speedodrd device. I tried every value from -25.9 to -36.9. Nothing worked. Got the (-) symbol every time. Can't find the magic number.

I have a 2016, and got the appropriate gears, so should be in that range. I played with the numbers, trying very small numbers and very large numbers to see if the device actually does anything, and seems to work.

Anyone have any ideas what the problem is??? The only thing I think I could have done wrong during install is putting the special washer in. Could this be my problem? Anyone else unable to find the magic number?

Are you getting (-) all the time? If so you got a bad speed sensor, reading, or wiring. Because even without the SpeedoDRD you will still get a numerical reading for a little bit before it cuts you out.

 

[906UP]

Are you getting (-) all the time? If so you got a bad speed sensor, reading, or wiring. Because even without the SpeedoDRD you will still get a numerical reading for a little bit before it cuts you out.

Good call Duckhunt, @washingtonnnn try unplugging the speedodrd, plug in the factory harness to the sensor and drive it around, see if you get a speed reading when going slow. If you do then the sensor spacing is most likely correct. Another member had to do a "factory reset" on his SpeedoDRD in order to get the setting correct. There are instructions on their website. If you get a "-" as soon as you turn on the key or when driving slow the spacing is not right or the sensor has been damaged.

 

[washingtonnnn]

Good call Duckhunt, @washingtonnnn try unplugging the speedodrd, plug in the factory harness to the sensor and drive it around, see if you get a speed reading when going slow. If you do then the sensor spacing is most likely correct. Another member had to do a "factory reset" on his SpeedoDRD in order to get the setting correct. There are instructions on their website. If you get a "-" as soon as you turn on the key or when driving slow the spacing is not right or the sensor has been damaged.

Welp. Bonehead of the year (literally for the past year) award goes to yours truly. I've been using the speedodrd wrong. I didn't realize that the device is permanently connected and have been taking it off every time and plugging factory harness back in. Set it to -33.3 and works like a charm. I probably put 600mi on this thing going into limp mode. Thanks all for your support and input.

 

[906UP]

Welp. Bonehead of the year (literally for the past year) award goes to yours truly. I've been using the speedodrd wrong. I didn't realize that the device is permanently connected and have been taking it off every time and plugging factory harness back in. Set it to -33.3 and works like a charm. I probably put 600mi on this thing going into limp mode. Thanks all for your support and input.

Haha.....awesome. Glad you figured it out. Happy trails!!!!

 

[Jvidahoyahoo]

Just did the gear change on 2017 500. Worked out perfectly. Did everything according to the notes in this forum. However I have a few notes to add. I only removed the rear brake caliper, removed the third member bolts (3), then moved it far enough back to get the driveline disconnected. Didn't have to remove the brake rotor. Also you can leave the throttle body and battery box in place. There's plenty of room to work around them. 2.75mm thickness washer on speed sensor then -12% on the speedodrd. Works great.
Thanks for the write-up and time taken to research.

 

[Jvidahoyahoo]

One more thing I forgot to mention. I didn't take the bolts out of the front diff. I used a ratchet strap with a few wraps around the front of the shaft where it comes out of the engine gearcase. Hook the other end of the strap to the front somewhere and pull a little tension. The shaft won't move.

 

[906UP]

One more thing I forgot to mention. I didn't take the bolts out of the front diff. I used a ratchet strap with a few wraps around the front of the shaft where it comes out of the engine gearcase. Hook the other end of the strap to the front somewhere and pull a little tension. The shaft won't move.

Good idea!