Air filter failure

D

Dankathy

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May 4, 2020
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Dan -
Let the dealer know about the throttle body connections being found fubar on several 'internet' Talons. If yours aren't connected properly, Honda has stepped up to the repair 'for some'. There's a thread on here somewhere about that very thing but I have no idea how to find it, it's been several months.
Could be time well spent for some. I'm 10 months out of warranty with almost 16000 miles, i think i know how this would go. Given my reluctance to deal with frustration and lack of negotiating skills i think i'll take my whipping and move on.
 
CID

CID

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Could be time well spent for some. I'm 10 months out of warranty with almost 16000 miles, i think i know how this would go. Given my reluctance to deal with frustration and lack of negotiating skills i think i'll take my whipping and move on.
I have the same lack of negotiating skills and abhor conflict but I would ask them to look and see if the air horn tubes were connected properly to the throttle bodies, for my own curiosity. I'd do that before picking it up (if they still have it), you never know, they might act on it if they see the video Lil_Steve linked. Or give you a great discount on a new one. 👍
 
Hometeam

Hometeam

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So have you decided what your actual plan for your Talon is yet? I have cash and might be interested in it. Just to recap what it seems to be.... Talon R with 16,000 mi on it, not sure what add-ons you have, noisy enough to think it needed a valve adjustment so took it in for valve adjustment, there has been a light dust on the clean air intake side since new, dealership said motor is toast due to dust, you stated it was running okay but could smell oil at times, definite scarring of the pistons but not sure to what degree, not sure yet what allowed the dust into the clean side of the intake. Does that about cover it?
 
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caverat

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I have lost the top end of motors before due to dirt getting through the filter. But it was very obvious you should be seeing blue smoke and depending how bad it is oil in the muffler. Just my 2 cents
 
M

McCarthy

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I have lost the top end of motors before due to dirt getting through the filter. But it was very obvious you should be seeing blue smoke and depending how bad it is oil in the muffler. Just my 2 cents

My thoughts exactly, whenever my dirt bikes need a top end (Including one or two over the years from me doing a s***ty job oiling filters) there's always a lot of blue smoke and oil in the exhaust.
 
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RedLevel

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Agree, but i do think its using oil, have to check to see how much. I do smell oil vapor, dont know if its blow by or out of the exhaust. Confidence has been shaken, if paul will go 10k i'll try my luck again with a new one
Be sure to check the air filter every 600 miles like in the owners manual. Not rely on an aftermarket thing to tell you when to service something. In the end Honda does know best
 
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F

fartsalot

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I run a filter minder and it works like a champ and does what it is designed to do for me anyway. I run a r2c filter and I cover the intake tubes with the green uni foam (oiled) just as a secondary precaution and I grease the sealing surface on the air box cover. I did notice after riding last week the filter minder is showing some restriction. I have ridden a lot since the last cleaning and this week I plan to remove the r2c to inspect how much dirt has collected in the back side. I also inspect the green uni foam and I have not found anything that has passed the r2c and lodged in the green oill foam.
 
WillyBill

WillyBill

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I'm dumbfounded that that much dirt got through the Uni?!?! :oops: Was it oiled? My Uni was filthy at 1066 (first cleaning) and a goopy/oily mess - but the stock air filter was still spotless at 1137 miles - all were with the Uni on its snorkel behind the passenger seat. (those pics are linked in my sig for the curious) The Donaldson (filter minder) would seem to be redundant since the Uni sits in plain sight? I'd be surprised if you ran your Uni as dirty as I did or past its ability to filter, it should have choked out the engine first.

To be clear - I am NOT pointing fingers like some will do, but I'm 'driven' to find solutions and this failure could happen to anyone using this concept.

Ride quality - If anything, the ride in the '21 is firmer than the red '20 I had but I'm sure that's because the '20 had 1500 miles on it and was finally breaking in.

My opinion on the Live Valve - I really, really want it to work and I think it will, someday. I'd have been tempted if the LV was available when I bought mine because I know any stock suspension can be improved. BUT, and a big but, I've read of too many issues with the LV for me to consider it at this time. The biggest problem is getting the shop techs trained in the very complex computer workings controlling the very complex mechanical systems involved. The SxS environment is a brutally harsh world, I keep my toys for years, you put big miles on yours - both of these situations are going to tax the mechanical components to their limits. I ride for fun and I don't want my buggy sitting in a dealership for weeks (months?) while their high school tech tries to figure out what pissy little computer glitch or delicate mechanical piece has failed.

So, no on the LV for me.

It's my (narrow minded) opinion that the best option for me at this time is having Weller Racing do the full shock treatment, including springs to match my load (2 spares and a bed extender). I'll be in Arizona shortly and can drop the Talon off there so I don't have to ship my shocks off (something I seem reluctant to do). If I was willing to step up to shipping, G-Force would probably be another shock service I'd look into, they have a great internet reputation too and external rebound and compression clickers AFAIK.

It goes without saying - keep us informed, inquiring minds need to know.

obtw: you got most of your money's worth out of this one IMHO - I'd trade it in.
You may also consider Shock Therapy. Ive been watching their YouTube channel tues n thurs and they seem to do a more thorough job than others. JMHO.

WB
 
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hondabob

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It really sucks to dust an engine. I run my under roof oiled uni pre filter for 10,000 miles. It would still hit the rev limiter in 6th gear but the uni was really dirty. My factory filter was still clean at 10,000 miles. I'm very careful installing the stock air filter. I just checked the clean side at a bit before 18,000 and its was still clean. I will replace the factory filter at 25,000 miles before I sell it. Its easy to check the clean side, I'm really careful to make sure the O-ring is in place. My buddy washed the stock Honda filter and that ruined it. He only had around 200 miles on it after he washed it. There was a little dust on the clean side but it was easy to clean up and that probably caused 600 miles of wear instead of 200. I installed a new air filter and made the snorkel going through the rear window up in the center of the roof with a oiled uni pre filter. Its easy to check the clean side at every oil change. I helped my buddy snorkel his RZR 1000 and now his factory air filter stays clean. He used this pre filter. I'm using this filter now too. It comes pre oiled and will last at least 5,000 miles. With the cost of $32.00 I will replacing it.

4d 5 20200514 153211 resized 20200514 161711 resized
 
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1HasBeen

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Be sure to check the air filter every 600 miles like in the owners manual. Not rely on an aftermarket thing to tell you when to service something. In the end Honda does know best
If Honda knew best they wouldn't be sucking the dirt off the rear wheel. Heavy equipment that costs hundreds of thousands of dollars rely on Donaldson filters with filter minders. Over-servicing air filters is a good way to introduce dirt into the intake tract. That's what restriction indicators are for.
 
B

Boundertom

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I like Hondabob's solution so much, I installed it on my Talon with 3 miles, before it ever saw dirt. I am not worrying about (or cleaning) air filters. :D
 
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PaulF

PaulF

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If Honda knew best they wouldn't be sucking the dirt off the rear wheel. Heavy equipment that costs hundreds of thousands of dollars rely on Donaldson filters with filter minders. Over-servicing air filters is a good way to introduce dirt into the intake tract. That's what restriction indicators are for.
AND if Honda knew best, they wouldn't have put the world's crappiest (non-reusable) seals on a filter that requires inspection every 300-600 miles!!!

The whole filter system on the Talon is problematic. When sealed up and working properly it is great but it is too easy to screw up. There is much evidence that even the factory has installed the gaskets wrong.
 
CID

CID

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AND if Honda knew best, they wouldn't have put the world's crappiest (non-reusable) seals on a filter that requires inspection every 300-600 miles!!!

The whole filter system on the Talon is problematic. When sealed up and working properly it is great but it is too easy to screw up. There is much evidence that even the factory has installed the gaskets wrong.
Photographic evidence - :oops:

Photo thanks to highpocket74
1615567802871


Photo thanks to AJMX824 -
1615567865826
 
H

hondabob

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Honda knows the air filter intake location sucks and the customer complaints at the dealer level and to Honda should get them to make a new design in the future. I'm so careful changing or checking the air filter. The suspension especially on the Talon X get lots of complaints too. When I worked with the Honda guys in Japan I told them it is really difficult to make a new product but very easy to make improvements. I think the Talon was designed in Ohio so hopefully we will see improvements next year. Well we can hope. Polaris had a terrible belt drive on a RZR model a few years ago. The next year they offered a $250 upgrade kit that also came with a new belt. It should have been free.
 
Montecresto

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I run a filter minder and it works like a champ and does what it is designed to do for me anyway. I run a r2c filter and I cover the intake tubes with the green uni foam (oiled) just as a secondary precaution and I grease the sealing surface on the air box cover. I did notice after riding last week the filter minder is showing some restriction. I have ridden a lot since the last cleaning and this week I plan to remove the r2c to inspect how much dirt has collected in the back side. I also inspect the green uni foam and I have not found anything that has passed the r2c and lodged in the green oill foam.
Where do you find the green UNI foam?
 
F

fartsalot

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Jun 11, 2019
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  1. Talon X
Where do you find the green UNI foam?
My local friendly Honda Dealer ordered it for me. They of course have a account with UNI and have access to all their products. A google search for uni.com or something like that should give you the link to order it on your own. I just finished closing up the air box tonight after filter maintenance and I put the uni foam back over the intake tubes,,, it is one of those feel safe feelings. I suggest running a bead of Belray grease around the outer edge of the air box lid for a air tight seal. I just fill the groove with the grease without getting sloppy and after you snap the lid down wipe off any extra that squishes out the sides of the lid. When you remove the lid it will take a tug at it to get it off because it is sealed snugly...another feel safe feeling that it is sealed ;)
 
Montecresto

Montecresto

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I just fill the groove with the grease without getting sloppy and after you snap the lid down wipe off any extra that squishes out the sides of the lid.
Is this in addition to or instead of the rubber gasket ring? So that green UNI foam is a special fit, specifically made for the intake side where the two tubes are (clean side of the filter) and is stout enough not to get sucked down in there?

Thanks for the time....👍
 
F

fartsalot

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  1. Talon X
Is this in addition to or instead of the rubber gasket ring? So that green UNI foam is a special fit, specifically made for the intake side where the two tubes are (clean side of the filter) and is stout enough not to get sucked down in there?

Thanks for the time....👍
Oh ! heavens no,,,, leave the o ring seal in place. You will need to cut the foam to fit over the outside of the intake tubes and make it large enuf to go over the outside edge. Take a longer wire tie and run it around the outside of the intake tube with the foam under it and make it tight. The foam will not suck down in the tube because air flows thru it and there is little downward pressure on the foam. It is all just extra insurance against the engine getting dusted in a dirty environment that you could encounter and knowing that the air going down in the engine is clean as possible.
 
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