Uni filter

Hondasxs

Hondasxs

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Here is one after 500 miles.
Cotton clogging up the UNI, wall full of dust and debris.
Also, proof that the UNI is, in fact, the new PRIMARY filter.

1661048659099
 
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H

HondaTech

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Was it a canister filter?
I do know airbox size and ambient spaces are very important for proper throttle response.

I didn't actually see the filter but my GM said that's what they were running.

The airbox itself looked like something off of an atv.
 
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Hondasxs

Hondasxs

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Just sent @Georgiaboy a private message apologizing.
I didn't mean it towards him. It's just I'm fairly hot about this mod being so deceptive.

Here is my final message, and I'm done giving my thoughts.
I may make a more informative and friendly-toned post at some point. lol.
I'll let yall make your own decisions in its thread.

My Final Thoughts....
If and ONLY IF the goal is to "save the OEM filter," Then YES, it 100% works.
I just hate people are whitewashing the negatives on the grounds the UNI is "washable".

Example 1 the cotton ball clog posted above.

Example 2
Here is the guy with a 10-day Moab trip. You can clearly see the cup is catching the dirt as it should.
His OEM filter is visible behind and, again, 99% clean because the UNI IS NOT A PRE-FILTER. Its a primary.
I don't know much about airflow, but I know not much air was flowing there.

Example. 3
Finally, an image showing what looks like a dirty filter.
Then the same filter cut open to show how much life is still left and the surface area of the OEM compared to the UNI.
The UNI is the black one, Not the red outer cover filter.
The red outer filter is actually a true pre-filter when run correctly; when run reverse, it is not needed and is useless.

Thanks for reading my thoughts on this.

1661049782206 1661049791590

Eed7b4d3639ce02ca6f1c0d6e43f88eb1661049801141
 
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TripleB

TripleB

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Just sent @Georgiaboy a private message apologizing.
I didn't mean it towards him. It's just I'm fairly hot about this mod being so deceptive.

Here is my final message, and I'm done giving my thoughts.
I may make a more informative and friendly-toned post at some point. lol.
I'll let yall make your own decisions in its thread.

My Final Thoughts....
If and ONLY IF the goal is to "save the OEM filter," Then YES, it 100% works.
I just hate people are whitewashing the negatives on the grounds the UNI is "washable".

Example 1 the cotton ball clog posted above.

Example 2
Here is the guy with a 10-day Moab trip. You can clearly see the cup is catching the dirt as it should.
His OEM filter is visible behind and, again, 99% clean because the UNI IS NOT A PRE-FILTER. Its a primary.
I don't know much about airflow, but I know not much air was flowing there.

Example. 3
Finally, an image showing what looks like a dirty filter.
Then the same filter cut open to show how much life is still left and the surface area of the OEM compared to the UNI.
The UNI is the black one, Not the red outer cover filter.
The red outer filter is actually a true pre-filter when run correctly; when run reverse, it is not needed and is useless.

Thanks for reading my thoughts on this.

View attachment 349784 View attachment 349785

View attachment 349799View attachment 349786
You really hurt my feelings about the walmart rain jacket.
 
scottkooch

scottkooch

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WOW, I don't log on for 20 hours and I missed all these posts where we run the gambit of hurt feelings and burning on Walmart raincoats. First off, I live in Minnesota, not Arizonia, but we still have plenty of dust on the trails if you're riding in a group. I started off running the Uni filter in my air box and cleaning it after every ride where there was a fair amount of dust. A habit I got into being an old mx'er. That was a pain in the ass. When 10-80 was still developing his snorkel kit, I got my name on his list for when he started selling them. Unfortunately, I own a 4 door and he wasn't sure if his kit would fit the 4-door model. He contacted me and asked me to take a bunch of measurements that didn't match what he was seeing with the 2-door model. He talked me into drilling the 3" hole in my fender and trying his pipe out. It worked and now I just swap the dirty filter with my clean, oiled spare one after every dirty ride. I do believe the key her is to clean the UNI often. My 2 cents.
 
Hondasxs

Hondasxs

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Your capable of making your own decisions.
Lol.

I do wish for and welcome positive UNI reviews and feedback from those who have it. I wish for ppl to be able to decide for themselves on the best method.
But be sure it's a full review and just not a "look how clean my oem is" review.

I will say the 10-80 has some drawbacks. One being noise levels if you don't have a rear panel.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
 
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CID

CID

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...

I do wish for and welcome positive UNI reviews and feedback from those who have it. I wish for ppl to be able to decide for themselves on the best method.
But be sure it's a full review and just not a "look how clean my oem is" review.

I will say the 10-80 has some drawbacks. One being noise levels if you don't have a rear panel.

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk
I've run the external UNI on my Talon since the first mile. It's my first SxS and I'm an ex dirt biker, so well aware of clean air. I had seen Hondabob's snorkel and UNI prefilter idea and liked that it kept the stock air intake chamber and decided that it would work best for me. Those details and part numbers are linked in the thread in my sig for the curious, post #18.

For the record - the internal UNI makes no sense to me, you still have to open the complicated stock airbox and you can't see when it needs cleaning.

I'm well aware that the UNI has nowhere near the same surface area as the stock filter but I'm rarely 'pinned' and have never noticed a running problem with an obstructed airflow. Is there a restriction, sure, maybe, but it hasn't affected me. And I'm no OCD, keep the filter spotless kinda guy, I wait until the thing is filthy, usually 600-1000 miles.

The super advantage is that I can see the UNI and know when it needs cleaning, unlike the stock filter. I can change it out in <5 minutes with the clean spare. The second advantage is that I don't have to disassemble the overly complex stock filter assembly with 10' of small rubber gasket that had damn well better be in place if you don't want to ruin your engine.

Would I do it again? You can bet yer butt I would. Since highpocket has introduced the dry prefilter, I'm considering a change because I hate cleaning the messy UNI's.

I gXGK7GX XL

Before adding the hose clamps and you don't have to remove the fender to do this.
I T4FfTzf X2
 
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G

Georgiaboy

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Just messing with you Honda sxs, I could tell by your message you have really done your home work over this stuff, not sure the best way to go right now, but I don't think it's with a hole in my fender😂, thanks for all the great options and opinions, will let y'all know what I figure out
 
HUCK

HUCK

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It's a 3" hole in your brand new machine. :p When you get over that, and you will, it's a great solution to one of Honda's biggest engineering mistakes on the Talon.

IMO, the problem with 10-80's kit is that is eliminates the goofy air intake chamber thingie. I don't know if that thing is for tuning or noise control, either way, I don't want to remove it. That's why I copied Hondabob's snorkel idea (linked in my sig including a parts list along with other basic Talon information).

10-80's snorkel and prefilter thread -
Yup I'm lucky as HondaBob is a good friend of mine and he snorkeled mine , even cut through the SATV back window so the filter is inside just below the roof and no it isn't noisy .
 
SLOWPOKE693

SLOWPOKE693

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S&B Particle Separator is a Honda approved and must buy it from a Honda dealer. Works great and increases air flow.

And it's quite a bit more expensive than the 10-80 kit even if you bought several extra filters and covers. Both have to be cleaned but one isn't plumbed with dryer vent hose....
 
CID

CID

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This way looks pretty good, if y'all think it would work, seems a little expensive though
They could have saved themselves a lot of work if they had removed the inner fender liner instead of the outer fender (which is a PITA).

This removes with a handful of push pins, the outer fender is much more complicated. (fwiw: I've done both)
I ChDXMrx XL
 
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