P1000 I screwed up.

[mjn]

Hey y'all! Haven't been on here in awhile, but I need some help..

I called my local dealer & snagged a new battery as mine was not holding a charge very well..
What I didn't notice is the battery I got had pos & neg reversed. (I know... inspect what you expect.. my bad) once the rubber sleeve is on the battery, ya can't see the markings on the battery itself.
I hooked the bugger up backwards.
I now have the correct battery & I gotz nuthin. Absolutely nothing..
I checked the obvious fuses & they're good.
what did I screw up??

 

[Admin]

 

[JACKAL]

Inside the fuse box with all the 10 to 20 Amp fuses is a 50 Amp main fuse block all under hood behind air intake cover / deflector. That would be my best guess. I managed to blow one 6 years ago adding a second battery and accessories.

See below.

 

[mjn]

Yea, I see that one. Can't get a good enough look at it to see if it's blown, but it makes sense. Both my batteries are charged, but no juice comes thru.
I'll take it out and look at it closer.

 

[HBarlow]

Use a voltmeter or simple test lamp to check fuses.

Place the black (-) lead firmly on a good chassis ground. Then touch the red (+) lead on each side of the fuse in question. You should see 12 volts on each side.

If you read 12 volts on one side of the fuse but not the other - the fuse has blown.

 

[bumperm]

Hopefully, the ECU and other electronic stuff that is powered up when the ignition is on, has reverse polarity protection. In which case a blown fuse could be the end of your problem. If they don't, sadly things may get more ugly.

 

[JACKAL]

Yea, I see that one. Can't get a good enough look at it to see if it's blown, but it makes sense. Both my batteries are charged, but no juice comes thru.
I'll take it out and look at it closer.

Note the 40 Amp EPS fuse is not in line behind the 50 Amp like every other fuse. So it may be blown as well. Pretty sure the 50 Amp protects every else just in case a short or oops like you did happens. Good luck and let us know what you find out.

 

[mjn]

Note the 40 Amp EPS fuse is not in line behind the 50 Amp like every other fuse. So it may be blown as well. Pretty sure the 50 Amp protects every else just in case a short or oops like you did happens. Good luck and let us know what you find out.

is this fuse in one of the two little black boxes between the battery and the fuse box?

 

[Neohio]

50a main fuse in panel on left.
40a should be eps fuse.
Pictured is a 2016.

 

[mjn]

50a main fuse in panel on left.
40a should be eps fuse.
Pictured is a 2016.
View attachment 316516

Yea.. thats the one I'm referring to... but I think I've got two of em? Mine is an '18 LE... is one for the i4wd maybe?

 

[Neohio]

50a looks like a modified j case fuse. It may be bolted in though, i didn't try to remove it.

Parts breakdown looks like it is bolted in.

 

[Neohio]

Yea.. thats the one I'm referring to... but I think I've got two of em? Mine is an '18 LE... is one for the i4wd maybe?

Do you have power on both sides of 50a fuse?
I would start there before messing with 40a fuses.
And yes, 1 is eps, other is for i4wd.

 

[Neohio]

According to the harness pic I uploaded,
You may have blown the following fuses.
50a main
30a mtr +b
40a fsr +b
40a eps

Follow the 4 solid red wires from battery in image. All 4 should blow to protect remainder of machine.

 

[mjn]

According to the harness pic I uploaded,
You may have blown the following fuses.
50a main
30a mtr +b
40a fsr +b
40a eps

Follow the 4 solid red wires from battery in image. All 4 should blow to protect remainder of machine.

Thanks man! I have not checked for power yet.. had just enough time to install the correct battery last night & realize I had further issues. I glanced at a couple fuses in the panel... the one labeled "start" is still good, I didn't see the 30a mtr +b in there.. I'll look at it a bit closer tonite after work.
As always, you guys are a ton of help! Thank you!!

 

[mjn]

Well, as usual, less time than I thought I'd have tonite.. went over to the kids house for dinner, so all I had the time to do is check the 50a fuse in the fusebox, and it seems to be good.
Guess I'll check the eps and i4wd fuses next.. however, they appear to be in line in FRONT of the fuse box, and if one of them is blown, I would think I wouldn't have juice to the fusebox... but again, electrical s*** is not my forte'.

 

[mjn]

The 30a marked "cont M" looks good also

 

[mjn]

Okay... 2nd grade question here... I have this damn thing, but have no idea where to set it..
Where should the dial be to test these contacts??

 

[Rayger143]

Okay... 2nd grade question here... I have this damn thing, but have no idea where to set it..
Where should the dial be to test these contacts??

View attachment 316586

Right where you have it set.

 

[bumperm]

Rayger143 is correct if you are checking for voltage on each side of the fuse to ground, or if you are putting the probes on each side of the fuse with power on (zero good / 12 volts would be an open fuse - bad).

Edit to add, voltage checks are also good for "tracing", aside from the fuses, to see if you have 12 volts were it's supposed to be. E.g., if you have 12 volts on the input of a device, and the device isn't working as expected, the device itself is suspect - can't do that with an ohm meter .

I recommend leaving power off and using the ohms function of the meter. Slide switch to ON, turn dial so the "dot" is straight down at 6 o'clock "200". This will use the meter's battery to see if the fuse is short or open. Test the meter by touching the leads to indicate a short. This is what you should see if the fuse is good when you put a meter lead on each side of the fuse. Note that most automotive blade type fuses have a little hole on each side of the top so you can access the blade on each side of the fuse element.

 

[mjn]

Rayger143 is correct if you are checking for voltage on each side of the fuse to ground, or if you are putting the probes on each side of the fuse with power on (zero good / 12 volts would be an open fuse - bad).

Edit to add, voltage checks are also good for "tracing", aside from the fuses, to see if you have 12 volts were it's supposed to be. E.g., if you have 12 volts on the input of a device, and the device isn't working as expected, the device itself is suspect - can't do that with an ohm meter .

I recommend leaving power off and using the ohms function of the meter. Slide switch to ON, turn dial so the "dot" is straight down at 6 o'clock "200". This will use the meter's battery to see if the fuse is short or open. Test the meter by touching the leads to indicate a short. This is what you should see if the fuse is good when you put a meter lead on each side of the fuse. Note that most automotive blade type fuses have a little hole on each side of the top so you can access the blade on each side of the fuse element.

Okay... did the ohms test. Leads together shows .3-.4. Touch each side of the main 50a fuse, & nothing. Zip. Battery is still hooked up if that makes a difference... so, fuse is toast?

 

[Neohio]

Okay... did the ohms test. Leads together shows .3-.4. Touch each side of the main 50a fuse, & nothing. Zip. Battery is still hooked up if that makes a difference... so, fuse is toast?

correct, most meters will give an audible tone when touching probes together.

remove the 2 10mm bolts and grab the fuse in hand, you should be able to see if it is blown.