moparornocar
RIP....Rocmar...
Lifetime Member
I could only hope it's that simple. The brakes squeal like nobody's business anywayRock in rotor?
I could only hope it's that simple. The brakes squeal like nobody's business anywayRock in rotor?
As soon as someone finds aftermarket brakes I'm switching!I could only hope it's that simple. The brakes squeal like nobody's business anyway
I don't know if l'd have the balls to try this,I 'v got to give you credit for going at it.Hope it goes as planned for you.
Whatcha talking about @iowaguy? You were the first person to do a caged p5-4. You got hell for it yet did it anyway and it came out sweet!I don't know if l'd have the balls to try this,I 'v got to give you credit for going at it.Hope it goes as planned for you.
Ya that was the most I could go within reason. The center post will be a the worst but it know you know. You have to deal with that upper flange that's welded to the b post. I just cut that weld and pulled it back enough to get at the post but it's a pain to weld under. Might be easier to cut through it and reweldHey CP, did you cut 4.5 out if the b and c pillars? I took 5.5 out of the a pillar, wasn't sure what math you used to match them up.
Absolutely. The c post you will need to loosen the lower bolts after its cut and tilt it just a bit towards the b'sSo to be clear
A - 5.5
B - 4.5
C - 4.5
Yes?
Ya I know ,but everything I did , only put 3 -3/8" holes in the sxs,everything else slid into the frame rails, or clamped on,I really have to give you 2 credit for doing this.I could just see me telling the wife I f###ed up and have to order a new roll bar!I
Whatcha talking about @iowaguy? You were the first person to do a caged p5-4. You got hell for it yet did it anyway and it came out sweet!
It does just a little. You'll have to cut a few welds top and bottom just a hair. It does get into the curve a very little bit and you'll have to grind a little on your interior sleeve. I'd get everything lose before welds it has to flex just a bit Lower I b I cut long and came back and trimmed the upper seatbelt mount then put that on as a cap if that makes senseAwesome. Thanks. I'm sitting here trying to visualize the b pillars. If I cut 4.5 it looks like it will get into the curve. And I ran out of welding wire. Shcrap. Got the a pillars welded up at least.
Ya I know ,but everything I did , only put 3 -3/8" holes in the sxs,everything else slid into the frame rails, or clamped on,I really have to give you 2 credit for doing this.I could just see me telling the wife I f###ed up and have to order a new roll bar!
thats funnyYa I know ,but everything I did , only put 3 -3/8" holes in the sxs,everything else slid into the frame rails, or clamped on,I really have to give you 2 credit for doing this.I could just see me telling the wife I f###ed up and have to order a new roll bar!
Yeah, I goobered up and cut too much. I'll get the c pillars welded in and then tackle that b pillarView attachment 19900 Best pic I could find. If you look the very top of the seatbelt brace was cut about 3/4 as well as the upper brace should be as it's easier (I didn't I just folded then folded back)weld back side of b post throw a little paint on it then replace the upper section of seatbelt brace weld and your back in. This is why I say 4 1/2 is really max without getting into heavy s***. You can see I did get into the round slightly maybe 1/4" but do not go more