P500 Need help with electrical plan

[futzin]

Finished the bumper/winch install.



Wired up the Aux 8 components. Connected the horn and the lighted mirrors. What do I need to do to make the horn activate only during button push? Currently have the two supplied wires to the + and - on the Aux control panel.



Tested a 3' whip. Battery in the remote may be dead, this is all they would do. Wires don't reach to front; I'll guess I'll splice more wire in . . .

 

[Admin]

 

[906UP]

Finished the bumper/winch install.

View attachment 419653

Wired up the Aux 8 components. Connected the horn and the lighted mirrors. What do I need to do to make the horn activate only during button push? Currently have the two supplied wires to the + and - on the Aux control panel.

View attachment 419651

Tested a 3' whip. Battery in the remote may be dead, this is all they would do. Wires don't reach to front; I'll guess I'll splice more wire in . . .

View attachment 419652

You need to program that button as a momentary switch, that way it's only on when the button is pressed. The pamphlet that came with the Auxbeam will explain it, it's pretty simple

 

[futzin]

You need to program that button as a momentary switch, that way it's only on when the button is pressed. The pamphlet that came with the Auxbeam will explain it, it's pretty simple

Read the instructions? OK, I guess . . .

 

[futzin]

Another question:

I'm pretty sure I'll relocate the cubes to the rear roof corners. Fairly common for me to remove the Honda roof.

For quick disconnect/reconnect, are bullet splice connectors a good option? Others?

 

[Mudwisel]

https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Waterproof-Terminal-Connector-10-Warranty/dp/B07FJPMML6/?tag=sxsweb24-20

This is what I use for things that need to be plugged and unplugged. You could use wire connecters if you wanted to

 

[906UP]

https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Waterproof-Terminal-Connector-10-Warranty/dp/B07FJPMML6/?tag=sxsweb24-20

This is what I use for things that need to be plugged and unplugged. You could use wire connecters if you wanted to

This ^^^^^^ is what I used also with heat shrink connectors

100 Pcs Blue Heat Shrink Butt Connectors, 16-14 AWG Waterproof Electrical Crimp Wire Splice for Marine, Cable, Wiring https://www.amazon.com/dp/B0981YTS3D?tag=sxsweb24-20

 

[futzin]

Thank you, gents!

 

[trigger]

https://www.amazon.com/Nilight-Waterproof-Terminal-Connector-10-Warranty/dp/B07FJPMML6/?tag=sxsweb24-20

This is what I use for things that need to be plugged and unplugged. You could use wire connecters if you wanted to

That's what I use too.

 

[silvertrd09]

Power steering kit not playing well with RB3 steering rack.
Shaft knuckle narrowly misses brake reservoir (normal) but rubbing hard some brake gizmo.

View attachment 418651
View attachment 418652

I can maybe move the mounting plate 1/8", but it won't be enough.

View attachment 418653

Got the EZ steer in tonight but the short steering arm is hitting on the brake reservoir and moving it a bit. I don't have a RB3 kit. So not sure what's going on. In the morning I'll move the mounting plate over like you did. Don't think I can move the reservoir.

 

[futzin]

Yeah, the tolerances are tight. Pretty much have to shift the bracket to passenger as much as possible. I had my wife hold it there while I dogged it down, but others have used a ratchet strap which would be better, prolly.

Good luck.

 

[The Green Goat]

Yeah, the tolerances are tight. Pretty much have to shift the bracket to passenger as much as possible. I had my wife hold it there while I dogged it down, but others have used a ratchet strap which would be better, prolly.

Good luck.

If I ever have to do it again, I'm putting the plate in first and drilling a self-tapper through it to hold it in place.

 

[silvertrd09]

Yeah, the tolerances are tight. Pretty much have to shift the bracket to passenger as much as possible. I had my wife hold it there while I dogged it down, but others have used a ratchet strap which would be better, prolly.

Good luck.

If I ever have to do it again, I'm putting the plate in first and drilling a self-tapper through it to hold it in place.

I ended up banging the s**t out of the mounting plate where the wing nut is in the pic and got the lower shaft to clear.

Putting a self tapping screw would not be a bad idea. 👍

 

[futzin]

You need to program that button as a momentary switch, that way it's only on when the button is pressed. The pamphlet that came with the Auxbeam will explain it, it's pretty simple

Not addressed in my pamphlet; perhaps this model doesn't have the capability.
Can't find anything about it...

 

[906UP]

Not addressed in my pamphlet; perhaps this model doesn't have the capability.
Can't find anything about it...

Yup, just figured that out myself. The one I got for the P1K was programmable, the one for the T1K is not 😞

 

[futzin]

The horn still works of course, just won't be any quick blows , or quick toots

Got the 3' whips wired up; the Aux 8 sure is easy to work with. Waiting on whip mounts.

 

[906UP]

The horn still works of course, just won't be any quick blows , or quick toots

Got the 3' whips wired up; the Aux 8 sure is easy to work with. Waiting on whip mounts.


View attachment 420247View attachment 420246

See..... told yahs I'd turn you & Ms Sara into buggy mechanics!

 

[KyGal83]

See..... told yahs I'd turn you & Ms Sara into buggy mechanics!

You’re making some head way with Futzin’ …. You got a long way to go with me! 🤣🤣

 

[JACKAL]

I just received several parts from the club store for setting up a new build. Going with the single 80 Amp Relay to fuse box with remote control switch harness for full off or Key-On Power or, Full time On Power options. Here a very basic diagram of theses 4 parts to the main battery.

Relay / Isolator : 80-AMP Battery Isolator or Relay - Compare to Stinger brand.

Relay Control Switch: Pre-Wired Relay Control Switch for AUX and Key-on usage. For Stinger, Cole Hersee or any.

Fuse Box: Fuse box with negative bus. 6 or 12 fuse unit, includes variety of fuses. FuseBox

Key on Power Pigtail: 2022+ Honda Power ACC pin for Key-on power. Pioneer, Talon


As this would apply to a Pioneer 500 would only need one each Positive & Negative cable 4 or 6 gauge to the front Relay(POS) & Fusebox (NEG)

Here is a workbench setup sans Key-on power plugged in.

 

[futzin]

You’re making some head way with Futzin’ …. You got a long way to go with me! 🤣🤣

Well let's see:

Off the top of my head, you've installed the Torq Locker, replaced your fuel pump assembly, identified and corrected the roll cage issue, suggested the use of push pins for the 520 Quick Shield install, came up with and implemented a speaker mount for the JBL Xtreme, mounted a rear cargo box. I'm quite sure I'm missing some stuff.

 

[KyGal83]

Well let's see:

Off the top of my head, you've installed the Torq Locker, replaced your fuel pump assembly, identified and corrected the roll cage issue, suggested the use of push pins for the 520 Quick Shield install, came up with and implemented a speaker mount for the JBL Xtreme, mounted a rear cargo box. I'm quite sure I'm missing some stuff.

I did do those things.. 🤔. Only a couple are mechanical… but I am damn proud of that Torq locker install! #girlpower ✊🏻

You on the other hand are on your 3rd buggy overhaul, did more than 1/2 the upgrades to mine also, 3rd winch install, in the middle of a major rewiring plan, Mudbuster installs, power steering installs… and let’s not forget 4… 4 Reverse override mods. Come on… you’re a professional, I am still in apprentice mode. 🤣

That also reminds me I need to finish the write up on my fuel assembly replacement. (Adds to the to do list)