Scoop
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Sorry, didn't see this. It's a Samsung Tab A7 10.4". The interface is called AGAMA Car Launcher. It's a launcher app you'll mostly find in use on Android-based car stereos.
Scoop
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Getting the Talon ready for TO 2024, so I had some bits laying around that I ordered over the winter that I needed to get installed.
First, I installed a set of the floor drain hole covers from 10-80 Dirt Sports from @highpocket74. I've lost track of the number of screws, nuts, and other things I've dropped on the floorboard that went right down those @#$%ing holes.
The covers that are against the console just re-used the holes and Honda pushpins that were already there, while the outside holes required me to drill 5/16" holes for those pushpins. Easy-peasy. They don't seal the drain holes or anything, so water will still drain out.
07/19/2024 EDIT: While these do allow water to drain out, all the dirt related earthen material will not pass through. So when you wash out your buggy, your floors will still be full of crap. I suppose if I pulled the pins before washing, that would address the issue, but kind of a PITA to do that every time.
First, I installed a set of the floor drain hole covers from 10-80 Dirt Sports from @highpocket74. I've lost track of the number of screws, nuts, and other things I've dropped on the floorboard that went right down those @#$%ing holes.
The covers that are against the console just re-used the holes and Honda pushpins that were already there, while the outside holes required me to drill 5/16" holes for those pushpins. Easy-peasy. They don't seal the drain holes or anything, so water will still drain out.
07/19/2024 EDIT: While these do allow water to drain out, all the dirt related earthen material will not pass through. So when you wash out your buggy, your floors will still be full of crap. I suppose if I pulled the pins before washing, that would address the issue, but kind of a PITA to do that every time.
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Scoop
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Next was the driver's side seat risers from 10-80 Dirt Sports. These not only raised the seat 1.5", but it I installed them in the rear-most holes, which pushes the driver's seat back 40MM from the stock position. Nothing like a little extra leg room.
Sorry for the dirty buggy, but I'll be giving her a bath tomorrow.
Sorry for the dirty buggy, but I'll be giving her a bath tomorrow.
Scoop
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In keeping with my products from @highpocket74, I installed the passenger seat riser cubes from 10-80 Dirt Sports. They raise the seat 1.5" over stock.
Scoop
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Ordered some PRP 4.2 Seatbelt Harnesses in blue. Will update with pic after install.
Scoop
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Working on the harness install. Not in any rush. Haven't decided if I will remove the retractors yet ... might wait until after a ride (MOM5?) to make sure I and Mrs Scoop like the 4 point harnesses.
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Bad_bowtie
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Lookin' good. About to do the same. My harnesses were delivered yesterday.
Jankyeye
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Coeus
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Generals Wife loves the 4-point harness over the Pioneer seat belt… so I just ditched the factory belts..
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Did the inverted CJ boot mod to keep swamp ass gas from rising through the shifter area.
@highpocket74, this is the 2nd one with the Prismatic Powder that better matches the blue (ROPS) for the '23 Talon. It's not night and day versus the first one we did, but I do like it better. There's more blue in it.
Oh, and I was bummed when I thought you sent me the wrong one -- until I realized I put it on 180 degrees and flipped. 😄
Here's my case of the dumbass move:
@highpocket74, this is the 2nd one with the Prismatic Powder that better matches the blue (ROPS) for the '23 Talon. It's not night and day versus the first one we did, but I do like it better. There's more blue in it.
Oh, and I was bummed when I thought you sent me the wrong one -- until I realized I put it on 180 degrees and flipped. 😄
Here's my case of the dumbass move:
Scoop
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Well, I didn't want the recent onslaught of new Talon owners to suffer the pain get all the joy of spending money on accessories, so I added a little something to the 'ole '23 T1K2FLV today. Order placed, install pics to come.
Honda Talon Complete Communication Kit with Bluetooth Intercom and 2-Way Radio (696+ and G1 GMRS)
Ultimate Headset for STEREO and OFFROAD Intercoms - Over The Head (x2)
Rocker Power Switch for Waterproof Mobile Radios and Rugged Intercoms
Baja Boot Offroad Mobile Radio and Intercom Weather Guard Protection
And just in case I have any issues mounting the M1 GMRS radio in the Talon panel with my aftermarket GPS mount installed, I have a temporary backup plan:
Block Off Plate for Rugged M1 , G1, RM60 , GMR45 Mobile Radio Mounts
Rugged and Kenwood Handheld Radio Jumper to Harness - Extra Long
I looked into Rugged Radios, UTVCOM, and PCI Race Radios and felt Rugged was the best solution for our needs. Props to Owen for taking all my calls, answering all my e-mails and texts, and putting up with all my questions.
Honda Talon Complete Communication Kit with Bluetooth Intercom and 2-Way Radio (696+ and G1 GMRS)
Ultimate Headset for STEREO and OFFROAD Intercoms - Over The Head (x2)
Rocker Power Switch for Waterproof Mobile Radios and Rugged Intercoms
Baja Boot Offroad Mobile Radio and Intercom Weather Guard Protection
And just in case I have any issues mounting the M1 GMRS radio in the Talon panel with my aftermarket GPS mount installed, I have a temporary backup plan:
Block Off Plate for Rugged M1 , G1, RM60 , GMR45 Mobile Radio Mounts
Rugged and Kenwood Handheld Radio Jumper to Harness - Extra Long
I looked into Rugged Radios, UTVCOM, and PCI Race Radios and felt Rugged was the best solution for our needs. Props to Owen for taking all my calls, answering all my e-mails and texts, and putting up with all my questions.
Robobrainiac
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I think you will like the rugged headset. I did the 696 plus, Baofeng UV-82 radio, and Alphabass headsets on the Teryx and the family really enjoys it. During my research I found that Rugged had the largest selection with plenty of durability claims/proof. I typically received quick responses thru email.
Scoop
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The good news: It's all here
The bad news: Now I have to get off my ass and install it all 😬
The bad news: Now I have to get off my ass and install it all 😬
Scoop
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Began the long install of the Rugged Radios setup for the Talon.
Hood, upper cowl panel, and full glass windshield removed to facilitate the installation and wiring.
Mounting the 696+ intercom and G1 GMRS radio into the Talon mount:
Using a hot knife to cut the plastic is FAR cleaner and easier than using a Dremel (what I used to trim the GPS tablet mount I installed a while back). This pic is just before I cleaned up the edges with a utility knife:
Test fitting the radio/intercom setup. The custom Talon mount from RR covers up everything nicely:
I had to recut the GPS tablet mount that I picked up from Amazon last fall so that the bottom edge did not hit the G1 radio once I reinstalled the mount. Essentially, the entire back panel is gone:
The only thing I was worried about was that bottom edge of the tablet mount. I was worried that it would line up right in front of either the intercom or the G1 radio. Luckily, that bottom edge falls exactly in between the two devices. The intercom will be fully accessible without opening the mount cubby, and the GMRS radio will be accessible simply by flipping the door open.
I like it this way because, once I set the channel we're going to be on, I won't typically need to access it for the rest of the ride/day. There is a separate on/off switch for the entire comms system that will be installing. This way, I don't have to re-adjust the volume every time we get in (volume knob on radio powers radio on/off):
So if you happen to run one of these GPS tablet mounts and were wondering if the Rugged Radios Talon mount for the intercom and radio will work together without to much effort ... the answer is 'yes'.
Next up are the cable runs for antenna, headsets, and power. This project will definitely take more than a day or two.
Hood, upper cowl panel, and full glass windshield removed to facilitate the installation and wiring.
Mounting the 696+ intercom and G1 GMRS radio into the Talon mount:
Using a hot knife to cut the plastic is FAR cleaner and easier than using a Dremel (what I used to trim the GPS tablet mount I installed a while back). This pic is just before I cleaned up the edges with a utility knife:
Test fitting the radio/intercom setup. The custom Talon mount from RR covers up everything nicely:
I had to recut the GPS tablet mount that I picked up from Amazon last fall so that the bottom edge did not hit the G1 radio once I reinstalled the mount. Essentially, the entire back panel is gone:
The only thing I was worried about was that bottom edge of the tablet mount. I was worried that it would line up right in front of either the intercom or the G1 radio. Luckily, that bottom edge falls exactly in between the two devices. The intercom will be fully accessible without opening the mount cubby, and the GMRS radio will be accessible simply by flipping the door open.
I like it this way because, once I set the channel we're going to be on, I won't typically need to access it for the rest of the ride/day. There is a separate on/off switch for the entire comms system that will be installing. This way, I don't have to re-adjust the volume every time we get in (volume knob on radio powers radio on/off):
So if you happen to run one of these GPS tablet mounts and were wondering if the Rugged Radios Talon mount for the intercom and radio will work together without to much effort ... the answer is 'yes'.
Next up are the cable runs for antenna, headsets, and power. This project will definitely take more than a day or two.
C
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All cables have been run - headsets, power, antenna, etc. Most things hooked up power-on tested -- will need to test comms, radio, BT devices, as well as interference from anything on the buggy (fingers crossed). Also need to get some ROPS radio jack mounts for the headset connectors.
Powered up:
Main switch for all comms so I don't have to adjust volume every time I get in. This runs through a Rugged Active Noise Filter, then to the radio and intercom.
I had to remove the cubby to make way for the radio/intercom combo, so I had to relocate my dual voltmeter and USB power outlets.
Driver and Co-Driver push-to-talk buttons installed.
Tomorrow I should be installing the antenna, reinstalling the GPS mount, cleaning up wiring & zip ties, reinstalling the windshield, and buttoning everything back up.
Powered up:
Main switch for all comms so I don't have to adjust volume every time I get in. This runs through a Rugged Active Noise Filter, then to the radio and intercom.
I had to remove the cubby to make way for the radio/intercom combo, so I had to relocate my dual voltmeter and USB power outlets.
Driver and Co-Driver push-to-talk buttons installed.
Tomorrow I should be installing the antenna, reinstalling the GPS mount, cleaning up wiring & zip ties, reinstalling the windshield, and buttoning everything back up.
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TripleB
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You're gonna look like those faggot KRX guys now.
Scoop
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Then I will fit in just fine around here ... 😊
Scoop
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Welp, the RR project is on a partial temporary hold. I decided I didn't want my headset jacks and other bits looking all ghetto, and I didn't want to drill a hole in the roof for the antenna. Also needed a mount to hang the headsets on when we were not riding.
Just ordered some bits form Axia Alloys (all in black e-coat) : Two single radio headset jack mounts + 2" clamps, one headset hanger + 2" clamp, and one adjustable radio antenna mount + 2" clamp.
-=-
UPDATE: The clamp sizes for the jack mounts were wrong. The lower crossbar behind the seats was 1.375", not 2". Reordered the clamps only.
-=-
Also ordered some small bits from Rugged: Dura-Link cable plugs for the headset jacks (seals/covers when no headset is connected), a coax cap for the NMO antenna mount (for if/when the antenna is removed), and a couple of crimp on PL-259 connectors. The 15' coax antenna cable is too long, and I don't want to play the "just feed it all around the vehicle so there isn't a coil of wire" game. Always get two, in case you screw the first one up, you don't have to wait on another order and pay more shipping.
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