M
Looking nice. Can't wait to see how she looks with the painted fascia. Let us know how the Shock Therapy springs work out.
TerryH
Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Thanks. Decided we'd do the front bumper red as well. Got the color dialed in today. Hopefully have them shot tomorrow. Dang paying customers keep getting in the way of my stuff.
The springs will be a little while but the Shock Therapy stuff sure seems like the best thing going.
TerryH
Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Got the fascia and bumper shot today. Our paint system will not decode the Honda paint code. We took a camera shot with our color camera and it brought up a VW color code Y3U. Came out pretty well. I also got the Mud Buster extended fenders and rear guards installed as well. I debated the Mud Busters vs the Rokblokz. The Mud Busters are fine but the hardware seems kinda cheap.
nbomar
Well-Known Member
Lifetime Member
You won our ranger we were giving away. I own Twin Peaks. I saw pictures of your FL350 there when my business partner FaceTimed me. That’s cool that you won! Haha. Small world.
Sent from my iPhone using Tapatalk
TerryH
Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Very cool and very small world indeed! I was totally blown away to win the Ranger.
TerryH
Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Whilst I was researching Talon stuff I came across this little product. I know folks have bought a second firewall shield and turned it the other way to close up the open hole that Honda left for us but this seems like it would be a better solution. Just got it in the mail yesterday. The guy made it taller as well so more coverage on the bottom. Holes to mount it are already there on the Talon. Fit perfect and came with the required additional push pins. $15 plus $6 shipping on Ebay.
2019 Honda Talon 1000R 1000X mud guard / firewall shield | eBay
2019 Honda Talon 1000R 1000X mud guard / firewall shield | eBay
BWAF
I get paid to pass gas
Lifetime Member
M
The red fascia and bumper along with the red wheels look really sharp. Keep going with the updates.
TerryH
Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Thanks! I'm in the midst of the Simpson D3 harness install currently. I'll have some pics and video soon.
TerryH
Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Simpson D3 harnesses are in. I love these harnesses! Never any question about Simpson quality and that shows in these belts. They are similar to other sewn UTV harnesses as the shoulder and lap belts are connected but Simpson has the shoulder belts connected with hardware instead of being sewn.
Couple of issues. There is no provision for the anti-submarine belt on the passenger side. I chose to add a piece of 1/4" x 1" steel flat bar between the front seat mounting bolts. Required 2 longer M8 bolts, washers to space the bar up so the belt has room, and filing the bolt covers to fit the flat bar. I sprayed the bar with spray can bed liner. The driver seat has a bar in the lower frame that worked perfectly for the anti-sub belt so no mods needed for that side.
Another interesting situation is the original bolts are not metric. They are 7/16 x 20. The lap belt bolts have 9/16" shoulders and the Simpson hardware has 1/2" mounting holes. I chose to replace the bolts vs drilling out the belt hardware.
The retractors on the factory belts have to be accessed from the rear wheel wells. They are behind panels that have to be partially removed to expose the single mounting bolt on each side.
Pretty simple install overall. The D3's seems very comfortable and they look great too!
Couple of issues. There is no provision for the anti-submarine belt on the passenger side. I chose to add a piece of 1/4" x 1" steel flat bar between the front seat mounting bolts. Required 2 longer M8 bolts, washers to space the bar up so the belt has room, and filing the bolt covers to fit the flat bar. I sprayed the bar with spray can bed liner. The driver seat has a bar in the lower frame that worked perfectly for the anti-sub belt so no mods needed for that side.
Another interesting situation is the original bolts are not metric. They are 7/16 x 20. The lap belt bolts have 9/16" shoulders and the Simpson hardware has 1/2" mounting holes. I chose to replace the bolts vs drilling out the belt hardware.
The retractors on the factory belts have to be accessed from the rear wheel wells. They are behind panels that have to be partially removed to expose the single mounting bolt on each side.
Pretty simple install overall. The D3's seems very comfortable and they look great too!
Last edited:
advertisement
TerryH
Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
TerryH
Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
SATV half windshield and 1.5" rear spacers today. Just continuing to throw money at it. lol...
You got a long way to go before you reach retail price so keep throwing!! I’m curious to see it come together
TerryH
Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Thanks bro! I really have no plan to reach that number but you know how I am so....lol...
I just love the fact that you traded in a brand new Pooooolaris that you won for a Honda the next day. Lol Awesome
TerryH
Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Could have traded for an RZR way cheaper but had to have the Talon!
TerryH
Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Not that this is directly related to the Talon build but...
I've had this 7x12 trailer for 30 years. It has served me well. I put a treated floor in it in 1998. It was due again and after sitting outside for the entire time I've owned it, it was looking pretty ragged. Decided I'd give it some love. Started last weekend and finished up tonight. Stripped everything off of it. Replaced the busted up expanded metal on the gate, Pressure washed the crap out of everything. Hammered out the fenders. Welded up a few cracks and gave it 2 serious coats of roll on bed liner. It was too rough to think about blasting and painting. New treated 2x floor. Had my guys do some nice base/clear silver on the wheels. New led lights. All new hardware. Painted the jack. Pretty much the whole meal deal.
Started out like this...
After much pressure washing, scuffing with Scotchbrite pads, more pressure washing, more pressure washing....
Let tell you that the roll on Herculiner is about the nastiest substance I have ever dealt with. The base is thin like black water but with ground up rubber that almost instantly settles out of it once you stop stirring. First coat looked terrible. I thought I had made a major mistake using it. However, the second coat evened out and actually looked pretty nice. I spray bombed the axles, hubs, springs, safety chains etc... with some industrial spry paint I buy at a local nut and bolt supply. Much better than the regular Krylon or whatever. I used a couple of cans of Herculiner spray on to get into the places I could not roll or brush the bed liner.
And the end result...
I still plan to use the enclosed trailer to transport the Talon most of the time but the rejuvenated old trailer will come in handy for when I don't want to pull the enclosed. I'm guessing that the bed liner will be super durable.I literally had to use hammer and chisel to get it off to ground the lights. Some seriously tough stuff.
I've had this 7x12 trailer for 30 years. It has served me well. I put a treated floor in it in 1998. It was due again and after sitting outside for the entire time I've owned it, it was looking pretty ragged. Decided I'd give it some love. Started last weekend and finished up tonight. Stripped everything off of it. Replaced the busted up expanded metal on the gate, Pressure washed the crap out of everything. Hammered out the fenders. Welded up a few cracks and gave it 2 serious coats of roll on bed liner. It was too rough to think about blasting and painting. New treated 2x floor. Had my guys do some nice base/clear silver on the wheels. New led lights. All new hardware. Painted the jack. Pretty much the whole meal deal.
Started out like this...
After much pressure washing, scuffing with Scotchbrite pads, more pressure washing, more pressure washing....
Let tell you that the roll on Herculiner is about the nastiest substance I have ever dealt with. The base is thin like black water but with ground up rubber that almost instantly settles out of it once you stop stirring. First coat looked terrible. I thought I had made a major mistake using it. However, the second coat evened out and actually looked pretty nice. I spray bombed the axles, hubs, springs, safety chains etc... with some industrial spry paint I buy at a local nut and bolt supply. Much better than the regular Krylon or whatever. I used a couple of cans of Herculiner spray on to get into the places I could not roll or brush the bed liner.
And the end result...
I still plan to use the enclosed trailer to transport the Talon most of the time but the rejuvenated old trailer will come in handy for when I don't want to pull the enclosed. I'm guessing that the bed liner will be super durable.I literally had to use hammer and chisel to get it off to ground the lights. Some seriously tough stuff.
TerryH
Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Couple more goodies added tonight. The CA shifter gate was a super easy mod. Toughest thing about the swap was getting the shifter knob off. It's a press fit and took a good amount of effort to get it off. Honda uses rivet style push pins on the top of the console so it's a matter of pushing the center pin thru to release them. Little bit of messing with the gate to get the shifter moving smoothly thru the gears. I used regular push ins to replace the rivet style. Entire process took about 20 minutes.
I figured a fire extinguisher would be a good idea just in case any of my RZR buddies needed it. lol... I bought a Airain quick disconnect rool bar mount. Pretty neat little piece. Comes with stainless clamps but I had a couple of insulated black ones so I used that to attach the base to one of the rear down tubes.
Just a matter of pulling the red knob and it's out of the mount.
Link to the mount on Amazon...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L7Z866H/?tag=sxsweb24-20
I figured a fire extinguisher would be a good idea just in case any of my RZR buddies needed it. lol... I bought a Airain quick disconnect rool bar mount. Pretty neat little piece. Comes with stainless clamps but I had a couple of insulated black ones so I used that to attach the base to one of the rear down tubes.
Just a matter of pulling the red knob and it's out of the mount.
Link to the mount on Amazon...
https://www.amazon.com/gp/product/B07L7Z866H/?tag=sxsweb24-20
TerryH
Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
advertisement
Similar threads
