TerryH
Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
TerryH
Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Install video coming soon but wanted to share some pics of the JC Racing billet nitrogen caps. Very cool little upgrade. Super easy to install. Does away with the prone to leak Fox self healing rubber ball seal and replaces it with a covered Schrader valve. Valve cap is also billet with an o ring. All around nice product.
Link to the JC Racing site: UTV / Side by Side
Link to the JC Racing site: UTV / Side by Side
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D
I like the looks of that system. Gives a lot of added protection to the Schrader valve.I have the schrader valves installed on mine, but they are not recessed like yours
TerryH
Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
The Schrader valve itself is a big upgrade from what Fox has. I also really liked that the valve was completely covered in the JC Racing ones. I'm also a sucker for anything shiny or color coordinated. lol...
TerryH
Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Install video on the JC Racing billet nitrogen caps. Very impressed with the machining, fit and function of these caps.
Ragnar406
The Great Bald One
Lifetime Member
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TerryH
Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Matt Mangin filled them but Joe Wooster (Ultra Off Road) and Rick Long (Madhatter Performance) can also do it.
TerryH
Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Newest addition is the HillBilly brake. I know a lot of guys have them on their Pioneers. Great addition to the Talon!
Video of the install and review on my YouTube channel:
Video of the install and review on my YouTube channel:
D
I have the Hillbilly e-brake on my Talon And Like it. When you stop on a steep incline make sure and set the brake first, then put the trans in park. Putting it in park first and releasing the brake before setting the E-brake puts a lot of stress on the park trans pal, and can cause damage trying to get the trans back out of park.
Your unit installed as directed in the installation instructions, Mine did not.
I had to make shims to add between the brake and Talon mounting bracket. My brake pedal would not go down far enough to engage the E-brake.
I made shims out of 16 ga. sheet metal and stacked them up until I was able to engage it.
This required approximately 5/16" of shims and a longer bolt to accommodate it.
This also makes sense to me and should have been designed into the unit.
As your brake pads wear done, the brake pedal will travel down more to force the pads in to contact with the rotor. Without any way to adjust for this , the E- brake will no longer hold.
I can remove shims as needed to compensate for this and make the E-brake work properly...
Some thing to think about...DRK
Your unit installed as directed in the installation instructions, Mine did not.
I had to make shims to add between the brake and Talon mounting bracket. My brake pedal would not go down far enough to engage the E-brake.
I made shims out of 16 ga. sheet metal and stacked them up until I was able to engage it.
This required approximately 5/16" of shims and a longer bolt to accommodate it.
This also makes sense to me and should have been designed into the unit.
As your brake pads wear done, the brake pedal will travel down more to force the pads in to contact with the rotor. Without any way to adjust for this , the E- brake will no longer hold.
I can remove shims as needed to compensate for this and make the E-brake work properly...
Some thing to think about...DRK
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Sheetmetalfab
Liberal kryptonite. truth and logic….
Lifetime Member
The brake calipers are floating so the pedal travel should remain the same.
(No matter how worn the pads are)
D
I was under the impression all disc brake systems had free floating pads.
But to force the pad against the rotor as the pad wears down'
The puck in the caliper had to be forced out by more brake fluid , which requires more pedal travel to supply the needed fluid to compensate for the wear.
If I am wrong in this I apologize.
But to force the pad against the rotor as the pad wears down'
The puck in the caliper had to be forced out by more brake fluid , which requires more pedal travel to supply the needed fluid to compensate for the wear.
If I am wrong in this I apologize.
Sheetmetalfab
Liberal kryptonite. truth and logic….
Lifetime Member
the fluid regenerates from the reservoir.
as the pads wear the level gets lower but the pedal travel remains consistent.
B
I installed the hillbilly brake as well....i didnt make shims; ratehr adjusted the threaded rod on the back of the pedal. works great now.
D
That's what I like about these forums,. You learn something every day.
I did not know there was a adjustment on the threaded rod.
And worse yet, when I called Hillbilly about the problem, they didn't seem to know this either or at least did not mention it.
I did not know there was a adjustment on the threaded rod.
And worse yet, when I called Hillbilly about the problem, they didn't seem to know this either or at least did not mention it.
TerryH
Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
On to beginning the electrical install. Using the XTC key on harness to power the ruse box. Hondasxs.com tail light harness to power the chase bar. Switch panel from PBR. SATV Black Ops 5000lb winch on SATV winch mount. Bunch of led goodies. Tusk heated seats. Remembering now how much I dislike doing electrical. lol...
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Dragon21
In my defense, I was left unsupervised
Lifetime Member
any plans to add a second battery? Still not sure if these are as bad as the pioneers when it comes to Amp draw affecting performance
TerryH
Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
Not at this point. Will add if needed. Not doing any stereo so I'm figuring around 20 amps max if the LED's and the heated seats were on at the same time.
From a previous thread by hondasxs.com on the subject: The Talon has a .7 kW charge rating. Calculations show it can handle 58 amps alone.
D
Put one of these on my R, first ride it fell off where brackets attach together (red Knob). Luckily fell down into bed and did not lose it.
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