P1000 Trailer tie down

ohanacreek

ohanacreek

My EcoBoost has I4WD
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Might checkout the versa track. I like it better than the E-track




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That’s really nice and stronger than E-track but, I would have paid for the Versatrack almost as much as I paid for the trailer. I have(2) 14’ runs of e-track and (2) 5’ runs side to side in between at the front and rear. Think it was @$100 delivered. Makes tying down anything very easy.


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Formula1

Formula1

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That’s really nice and stronger than E-track but, I would have paid for the Versatrack almost as much as I paid for the trailer. I have(2) 14’ runs of e-track and (2) 5’ runs side to side in between at the front and rear. Think it was @$100 delivered. Makes tying down anything very easy.


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Where did you order your e-track from at that price?
 
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ohanacreek

ohanacreek

My EcoBoost has I4WD
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Where did you order your e-track from at that price?

 
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Formula1

Formula1

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Yes I read your first post and I agree about US Cargo Control having nice stuff. When I build out that length I just can't get it anywhere near the price you paid with shipping.
 
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ohanacreek

ohanacreek

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Yes I read your first post and I agree about US Cargo Control having nice stuff. When I build out that length I just can't get it anywhere near the price you paid with shipping.

Don’t do 10’ sections
Don’t do 2’ sections, Cut 5’ or 8’ sections
Order at same time as straps, cross $200 including straps....free shipping.
 
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Wisco_rider

Wisco_rider

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I have been thinking about e-tracks, the two things I keep wondering about are should I recess them and should they be mounted to the crossmembers and not just the boards? I also second the comment on straps from US Cargo Control. I ordered 4 from them and they are very nice. Plus I got to get them in blue instead of yellow!
You can recess them if you have the tools and want to put in the time to do that. I did not recess mine. Mine are mounted with 1/4" bolts every 4th hole, with a self tapper in between each bolt. None of them are going through anything but wood. I just trailered 600 miles with 2 machines over the weekend. Zero issues. Machines didnt budge.
 
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LarryAmboy

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You can recess them if you have the tools and want to put in the time to do that. I did not recess mine. Mine are mounted with 1/4" bolts every 4th hole, with a self tapper in between each bolt. None of them are going through anything but wood. I just trailered 600 miles with 2 machines over the weekend. Zero issues. Machines didnt budge.

Pray you don’t have a serious accident as your UTV can become a projectile coming your direction or someone else’s if the tack comes separated from the trailer. Thru bolt at every place you can. E track has a WLL of 2000 lbs with fasteners every hole. The self tappers have a very low pullout compared to thru bolts.


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Formula1

Formula1

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I ended up ordering some of this track, I got it off eBay though. I'm planning on tying it in to the crossmembers which are every 16" then using bolts with a backing plate on the rest. I'm wanting more tie down points anyway just for general hauling so it'll be handy.

 
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Wisco_rider

Wisco_rider

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Pray you don’t have a serious accident as your UTV can become a projectile coming your direction or someone else’s if the tack comes separated from the trailer. Thru bolt at every place you can. E track has a WLL of 2000 lbs with fasteners every hole. The self tappers have a very low pullout compared to thru bolts.


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There are 100 thru bolts, and 100 self tappers.
 
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cekkk

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Haven't trailered the Talon yet but x2 on Cargobuckles! DW would pull our 16ft trailer with a Yamaha rhino a Honda Foreman ATV from Central Colorado to Phoenix and back every winter for several years. I'd be pulling our trailer with my beloved dually. On top of that, I would occasionally strap down our tractor and haul it around our mountains. A little overloaded perhaps but never had a problem. Those puppies are getting pretty old now but still do the job.
 
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Hondoman

Hondoman

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I cant believe the amount of people you see using 1" straps to secure an atv/utv (or any other load for that matter) on the road. Ticking timebomb.

I use 2" straps with 3k plus working load for nearly everything, better safe than sorry.
 
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8ball929

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Etrack and Tire bonnets are the best IMO. Machine doesn't move and your not compressing your suspension for extended periods of time. As for Etrack, call around to local trailer dealers/manufactures. Especially if your wanting longer lengths. When I hauled my Pioneer home the only trailer I had free was my car hauler. Metal deck and no etrack because I use it to haul my tractor or various other things. So I just ran straps through the A arms. The over the tire deal or tire bonnets only works if you have tie down points in exactly the right place. Thats the plus to etrack. You can easily move the machine forward or back as needed.

810
 
J

jajohn00

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After reading all of your comments and suggestions here once again it cost me some time and money.LOL.
I reset all of the boards on my trailer and installed a E track system. Bolts in every hole and through metal support cross members at every opportunity. Over 250 bolts. Then added self tapping screws on all boards at every opportunity to connect to metal.
Loaded and drove over 300 miles yesterday, Boise Idaho to Bear Lake, Utah.
I worked great. It was a little unnerving at first to see the Honda moving on the suspension but it stuck to the trailer great!! 2df28f24e1262be34521c5b4c88898dc88e6a5d15763b85f1c855d7cf580ea7cB8e653b4f9cc13d250bde4ea0a1717623e2bb8b23615aa98c94b55a1c3509e939687f16450192b0c8e4f083920706d127998f31ed3f3a9711e83be9d8c54095e

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8ball929

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Sounds good. Probably a little over kill though lol. All you really need is to run bolts through the track and through the steel cross members under the wood floor. Doesn't hurt to add a few self tappers here and there into the deck. But the bolts through the steel supports is what really holds everything. If your tie down points are far away from your steel supports or your supports are just spread really far. Then just run a 2x6 or 2x8 side to side under the trailer and bolt through it. No way it will go anywhere it would have to rip off every board on the trailer for the Etrack to come up.
 
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jajohn00

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Nov 16, 2018
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Sounds good. Probably a little over kill though lol. All you really need is to run bolts through the track and through the steel cross members under the wood floor. Doesn't hurt to add a few self tappers here and there into the deck. But the bolts through the steel supports is what really holds everything. If your tie down points are far away from your steel supports or your supports are just spread really far. Then just run a 2x6 or 2x8 side to side under the trailer and bolt through it. No way it will go anywhere it would have to rip off every board on the trailer for the Etrack to come up.
I understand overkill. But being a safety guy I like overkill. Besides I had my 8 year old grandson with me on the project that loves learning things and helping grandpa. Without him most of those holes and all of those nuts being attached to the bottom of the bolts would never have happened. LOL.
But I am sold on the method of securing the SxS by the tires and wheels as opposed the frame/cage and compressing the suspension.
I thank the forum for many awesome ideas and practices that make this activity safer and more enjoyable.
My hats off to everyone. Thank you.

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