P1000 Trailer tie down

[JAL]

I just bought a 1000 3 Deluxe. When I picked it up at the dealer they helped me tie it down to my utility trailer with two ratchet straps - one through the front grill guard and the other looped around the frame in the rear. I towed it 75 miles to my house with no problems. The next weekend I was towing it to a event and strapped it down the same way. I stopped on the way and as I was walking back to my truck I noticed my Pioneer had moved on the trailer. The front strap had come loose - I think that was my fault - and the back strap broke. I took the front strap and ran it from the tie down point at the front of the trailer through the cab and back to the front tie down point on the trailer. It held the rest of the way and back home too.

I've been reading that I shouldn't limit the suspension from moving when towing it and I get that. I don't want to bolt on the Erickson system because I will be using the trailer for other things. What do you folks think about these?

RHINO USA Ratchet Straps Tie Down Kit, 5,208 Break Strength - Includes (4) Heavy Duty 1.6" x 8' Ratchet Tiedowns with Padded Handles & Coated Chromoly S Hooks + (4) Soft Loop Tie-Downs​

I plan to use all four and strap them to the frame so the suspension can move while I'm towing it.

Fastdog ... I also use four straps to the frame/bumpers, rhinos, AND a fifth strap straight back to the receiver which is there to help with a sudden deceleration. I can also use the fifth extra strap as a spare for the main four straps. Be sure to watch the straps while driving. Any change means pull over and re tighten. My straps stretch a bit on the road. Also safety anything on the rig. I use a cable lock to secure the accessories. I remove the lock on site and reuse the cable lock on my 11 foot ramps.

Have fun customizing your rig!

Jeff

 

[Fast Dawg]

Fastdog ... I also use four straps to the frame/bumpers, rhinos, AND a fifth strap straight back to the receiver which is there to help with a sudden deceleration. I can also use the fifth extra strap as a spare for the main four straps. Be sure to watch the straps while driving. Any change means pull over and re tighten. My straps stretch a bit on the road. Also safety anything on the rig. I use a cable lock to secure the accessories. I remove the lock on site and reuse the cable lock on my 11 foot ramps.

Have fun customizing your rig!

Jeff

Jeff - thanks for the positive response. If Rhino is having these straps made in China to reduce cost for consumers in the U.S., and they are one of the best rated straps on the market, welcome to capitalism in the U.S.! Don't get me wrong - I love "Made in the USA" products.

 

[tdhanses]

Jeff - thanks for the positive response. If Rhino is having these straps made in China to reduce cost for consumers in the U.S., and they are one of the best rated straps on the market, welcome to capitalism in the U.S.! Don't get me wrong - I love "Made in the USA" products.

Not sure if they are one of the best but they are better then you’ll get at your local box store.

 

[oldfortyfive]

I've been using two of these on my P500: https://www.menards.com/main/tools/...8-c-14203.htm?tid=-8651333627734495026&ipos=2

I always check the straps on every stop. About 1 out of 5 stops I may have to add a click tighter on one of them. Also I just replace them every other year. Typically I make a 3000 and 1200 mile trip every year.

 

[JAL]

Jeff - thanks for the positive response. If Rhino is having these straps made in China to reduce cost for consumers in the U.S., and they are one of the best rated straps on the market, welcome to capitalism in the U.S.! Don't get me wrong - I love "Made in the USA" products.

My set came with loops and velcro ties. I vaguely remember ordering extra loops. I use loops at each anchor point.

 

[cbsander]

Put down my e-tracks a couple weekends ago. Used four 8' powder coated rails. Had to shave off about .5" off of one from each side.

Through bolted with grade 8 hardware through the boards as well as the steel crossmembers. I'm pretty sure I'll get the rated break strength of the tracks before they pull out of the trailer.

Also got my straps in last week. Had them custom make the tire bonnets and just put the etrack clip on the end intead of the hook. I'm sure that limits my portability of using the straps elsewhere. But it sure makes it easy on this trailer.

Now I just need to find time to take it out to ride...

 

[livefromthetree]

Put down my e-tracks a couple weekends ago. Used four 8' powder coated rails. Had to shave off about .5" off of one from each side.

Through bolted with grade 8 hardware through the boards as well as the steel crossmembers. I'm pretty sure I'll get the rated break strength of the tracks before they pull out of the trailer.

Also got my straps in last week. Had them custom make the tire bonnets and just put the etrack clip on the end intead of the hook. I'm sure that limits my portability of using the straps elsewhere. But it sure makes it easy on this trailer.

Now I just need to find time to take it out to ride...

View attachment 279135View attachment 279136

Looks good and no more messing with ratchets.

One thing...I had a trailering expert kinda sorta guy tell me to clip into my etrack as close to the tire as possible so that the strap is straight down from the tire instead of extended outward. He may have been saying it from truth or belief, but I went with it with no issues since then 😅

 

[cbsander]

Looks good and no more messing with ratchets.

One thing...I had a trailering expert kinda sorta guy tell me to clip into my etrack as close to the tire as possible so that the strap is straight down from the tire instead of extended outward. He may have been saying it from truth or belief, but I went with it with no issues since then 😅

Thanks for catching that! I'll bring them in tighter.

Did they mention the thought process behind that? Do the clips have more strength against a stress going straight up as opposed to at an angle?

 

[CID]

Thanks for catching that! I'll bring them in tighter.

Did they mention the thought process behind that? Do the clips have more strength against a stress going straight up as opposed to at an angle?

I don't think there's anything wrong with the slight angle yours are fastened. My mind's eye is picturing how easy a box will push flat once the ends are opened. If the opposing sides were angled outward it would be much less likely to flatten.

/ \ is less likely to push over than | |

 

[HBarlow]

I prefer old and simple. A DOT inspector would never challenge my proven method. They can stop a driver and inspect if they don't like what they see.

 

[bumperm]

I don't think there's anything wrong with the slight angle yours are fastened. My mind's eye is picturing how easy a box will push flat once the ends are opened. If the opposing sides were angled outward it would be much less likely to flatten.

/ \ is less likely to push over than | |

At first blush I can see why one might think the angled strap is just as good or maybe even better. But think of it this way. On the angled strap installation, /O\, as the wheel tries to move to the left, the left side strap actually tends to loosen while the right side strap takes up all the load. That is not the case when the straps are vertical front and rear of the wheel, |O|. Now, as the wheel tries to move to the left, both straps stay tensioned roughly an equal amount and share the load.

 

[Hondasxs]

Sent from my SM-G996U using Tapatalk

 

[Muleyhunter]

Hmmm, I wonder why the manual shows tieing down from the rear ROPS and front bumper, basically compressing the suspension. That’s how I’ve tied down for 10+ 1200 mile trips. While I haven’t had any problem, these posts have me rethinking that. Also, I didn’t see many comments addressing the OP questions about leaving in park. Any thoughts on that?

 

[Muleyhunter]

Here are the ratchet straps I use. They’re called shock straps. They have a urethane link in them that takes all the shocks and have never had a problem with straps coming undone with these. Very pleased with them although pricey.

9ft x 2in ShockStrap Ratchet Strap with Wire Hooks, Premium Polyester Webbing, 6k Break Strength 2k Working Load Limit

SHOCKSTRAP FEATURES: Dependable- ShockStrap® Bungee's provide constant tension on your hooks and superior shock absorption without coming loose Safety Strap- A backup strap in case the ShockStrap® Bungee is compromised Durable- The ShockStrap® Bungee is made from a proprietary formula and is not...

www.theperfectbungee.com

 

[lee]

Hmmm, I wonder why the manual shows tieing down from the rear ROPS and front bumper, basically compressing the suspension. That’s how I’ve tied down for 10+ 1200 mile trips. While I haven’t had any problem, these posts have me rethinking that. Also, I didn’t see many comments addressing the OP questions about leaving in park. Any thoughts on that?

I'm sure if some one from honda came on here and posted how to tie down a SxS (or what oil to use) they would be shouted down by experts who know better (based on there experience with a few vehicles gently kept in primo condition in a heated garage and only driven a few hundred miles a year).

Put it in park, the wheels being locked will reduce the tendency for the vehicle to walk around.
Also, I don't think the manual says to compress the suspension.
The straps are shown attached low on the frame and spaced out from the frame.
The flatter the straps the more the vehicle will be allowed to float.
The straps are controlling or limiting the side to side and fore aft movment.
If the SxS moves up and down a little it's ok.

This is how I haul my vehicle (in a climat controled enclosed trailer only to be taken out to dry groomed trails 😁 ).

 

[CRob8348]

I have the Mac's straps as well and while I know they are more expensive that most, I want my machine to stay with me as I go down the road. They work very well and I have not had any issues.

 

[Ohio4x4]

Hmmm, I wonder why the manual shows tieing down from the rear ROPS and front bumper, basically compressing the suspension. That’s how I’ve tied down for 10+ 1200 mile trips. While I haven’t had any problem, these posts have me rethinking that. Also, I didn’t see many comments addressing the OP questions about leaving in park. Any thoughts on that?

Ive always hauled in park. I strap from the frame to the trailer two straps front and two on rear thousands of miles on a trailer like this and ive had no issues. The only pics i have with this thing strapped to the trailer pretty well suck to show placement but there are oval slots in the front frame between the control arms and the rear seaction by the hitch has two spots to hook on the bottom.

 

[StewB]

Please, everyone, take a step back and think about the bumps and worst-case problem you're trying to prevent.
We strap our machines to the trailer so they don't fall off and (here's the big one) so they don't join us in the passenger seat if we rear end or head on someone in an accident.

Trailers universally have bad suspension because they're too stiff (expecting heavy) or too soft (expecting light). So your trailer is going to give your machine a 1,600# bounce everywhere you drive. Go ahead and tighten it down against the machine's suspension, there's still going to be a big bounce.

Best case is to strap your tires to the trailer bed, like elocks. Next to best is to tie it down on the A arms and right below the suspension. Let the machine's suspension bounce it while the wheels stay down.

 

[Ohio4x4]

Please, everyone, take a step back and think about the bumps and worst-case problem you're trying to prevent.
We strap our machines to the trailer so they don't fall off and (here's the big one) so they don't join us in the passenger seat if we rear end or head on someone in an accident.

Trailers universally have bad suspension because they're too stiff (expecting heavy) or too soft (expecting light). So your trailer is going to give your machine a 1,600# bounce everywhere you drive. Go ahead and tighten it down against the machine's suspension, there's still going to be a big bounce.

Best case is to strap your tires to the trailer bed, like elocks. Next to best is to tie it down on the A arms and right below the suspension. Let the machine's suspension bounce it while the wheels stay down.

I agree. I think to many people worry about strapping them down literally and not thinking of strapping them to keep them on the trailer if s*** goes bad. If i have to strap down i have problems with bounce loosening straps when strapped to the far corners of the trailer it just stays put. I have been in the collision like youre talking about and was lucky we only had one strap fail on the back of my brothers buggy that hit me and one break on the front of mine. Neither machine moved an inch even breaking one strap on each. I also use straps rated for more than the total weight of the machine. I think the ones i have now are 3300lb working load or so they're advised. The straps that broke were rated 2200lb and they did the job but broke.

 

[Prntckt]

What is the best way to tie down my 1000-5 on the trailer. Also have a concern, should the SXS be in Park when tied down.?? Thinking about a shock load on Parking mechanism in trans. Almost wish there was an emergency brake lever ...Yes, I know there are those who will forget the brake is on...Can't fix stupid..

I installed a Hillbilly brake and lock the brakes with it when hauling my P1000-3 on a trailer.