J
JTW
Guest
Good luck!! Holler at me when you get suuuuuper frustrated and done with it! I'll make you a deal!I plan to soak with PB blaster tonight. I've got my work cut out for me.
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Good luck!! Holler at me when you get suuuuuper frustrated and done with it! I'll make you a deal!I plan to soak with PB blaster tonight. I've got my work cut out for me.
Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G935A using Tapatalk
Same thing happened to me. I'm concerned when I replace the OEM skids this winter with triple S that I'm going to break off more!FWIW: I broke two bolts removing the skid plates to run my wiring for work and overhead lights. One came out easily with vise grips and PB blaster. One is still in there with a hole and broken extractor in it.
Note to self... Don't put a skid plate screws tight, after all it's just a bolt. Lol thanks for the info. Once again the forum pays off.
As I was reading through the posts that was going to be my suggestion. Just drill them out and install one of many types of threaded inserts that or go with the next size up of self tapper. The left hand drill will works sometimes but you have got to be dead center and the bolt is pretty small and hardened as they are self tappers I believe.@JCart can tell you all about using Rivnuts/Nutcerts for the skids.
Does anyone have a left hand drill bit set they recommend?
I did the same thing when a couple of mine broke removing them to run wiring. I found some very cool self taping 1/4" very fine thread fasteners. Worked great.I had a few that broke. I'm not picky I just used tap in screw next to it...
I use a quality anti seize paste when installing these bolts, don't be a heathen when tightening as the're only M6.... I've twisted them off with my Milwalkie 1/4" drive impact, so use hand power only on install. Periodically you will need to retighten, check every oil change. Buy spare washers from Honda and have a few bolts on hand.
j
Lube and anti-seize are our friends.
Just thinking here but the thickness of the nut must be thick enough in these frames to make the screws break off right? Gunk and debris not withstanding, the quality of the bolt in these cases is the issue. Just working around metal myself, I have found different qualities of metal of the same gauge (perhaps due to density), this could also be the issue with these bolts? Again I am using my past RZRZ as an example where debris would have gathered but never an issue with those bolts..that being said I agree with anti-seize...I think a galvanized bolt from a local hardware store is of better quality than these bolts Again I will change my when I have a chance...and use your suggestion of anti seize.I don't necessarily disagree as stronger is usually better but keep in mind it takes the thickness of a nut for a fastener to be full strength. We don't have that kind of thickness in these thin frames or strength of the threaded point as we would if there was a nut involved. I would much rather have to remove a soft broken bolt than a hard one. A harder fastener rather than shear can cause more damage to the hole. The higher carbon harder bolts will be more prone to corrode due to the difference in carbon content with the parent frame material. Its a form of electrolysis. Anti-seize is just a good idea for virtually everything on any kind of vehicle. Question for you guys (and ladies) out there. How many of you use anti-seize on your spark plugs and lug nuts??? This is especially true if aluminum is involved. Which brings up a interesting other question. Has anybody had problems with their bolts on the aluminum skid plates considering the affinity aluminum has for steel or iron?
Its my guess the bolts are broken in shear which would be from a side movement where the force is pushing the bolt against the screw hole. A bolt is in tension against a nut. I only mentioned the nut reference to show that strength here is really not a issue in my mind as much as the shearing force when the SxS floor pan is run into a rock or log and the head of the bolt is removed by a shearing action. If the bolt was stronger this same action might damage the frame. Anyway that was the point and I think it would be good to try stronger bolts but accept the fact there might be problems due to their strength. You always have rivnuts or self tappers for repairs.Just thinking here but the thickness of the nut must be thick enough in these frames to make the screws break off right? Gunk and debris not withstanding, the quality of the bolt in these cases is the issue. Just working around metal myself, I have found different qualities of metal of the same gauge (perhaps due to density), this could also be the issue with these bolts? Again I am using my past RZRZ as an example where debris would have gathered but never an issue with those bolts..that being said I agree with anti-seize...I think a galvanized bolt from a local hardware store is of better quality than these bolts Again I will change my when I have a chance...and use your suggestion of anti seize.