Talon Air Cleaner concern on my 1000x

highpocket74

highpocket74

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R2C cleaning instructions provided with every filter shipped.
CFE1C148 5369 48DE B63C B59C5A89F322
 
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CID

CID

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Still running stock intake. So the dirty side was of course dirty.

Pic below taken after ridden on 50 miles of national forest trails this month. Air box and filter were cleaned prior to this ride.
View attachment 215181

The point I'd like to make is that these are main air filter elements that work well, not precleaners. That is why I shared the clean side of the airbox with you guys. You can add precleaners to extend maintenance intervals and filter life.
Thanks for the pic. 👍

Now I'm curious - how much better would the intake air be with just the riser behind the passenger seat and no pod filter? Irrelevant ponder since I'm set for the next 100,000 miles. :cool: And if one were to do that, why wouldn't they just go ahead and add the pod filter regardless of what's in the airbox. 🤔
 
Iowamike

Iowamike

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No intake noise and I'm at 4,000 miles now. Looks like I will replace the pre filter at 6,000 to 7,000 miles. I don't follow in the dust and since the prefilter is in clean air it stays fairly clean. I sold my Pioneer 500 to my buddy and with the under roof prefilter the stock air filter is still clean at 8,000 miles. He cleans and reoils the prefilter every 1,000 miles and rides in mild dust occasionally.
Will modifying an intake cancel out your warranty?
 
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hondabob

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I doubt it. All the dealers know the stock air intake location is poor requiring a new air filter every 600 miles or less. Honda sells the particle separator kit.
 
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fartsalot

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Using my r2c filter I added a bit of extra caution with out any noticeable power loss. I bought a piece of the green filter foam that UNI sells in a package, my Honda stealership has it in stock. I cut a piece to cover the intake tube (s) and held it in place with a wire tie wrapped around the outer edge. I oiled the foam with uni foam oil so as to catch any debri that happens to get past the r2c filter. To date I have about 250 miles on dusty country gravel roads and I not found any dirt or dust particles on the uni filter foam. I keep a close eye on the foam and so far so good. The r2c filter is the way to go if a snorkel system or particle separator is not used.
 
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Montecresto

Montecresto

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Using my r2c filter I added a bit of extra caution with out any noticeable power loss. I bought a piece of the green filter foam that UNI sells in a package, my Honda stealership has it in stock. I cut a piece to cover the intake tube (s) and held it in place with a wire tie wrapped around the outer edge. I oiled the foam with uni foam oil so as to catch any debri that happens to get past the r2c filter. To date I have about 250 miles on dusty country gravel roads and I not found any dirt or dust particles on the uni filter foam. I keep a close eye on the foam and so far so good. The r2c filter is the way to go if a snorkel system or particle separator is not used.
That’s great news! Should have mine today....👍
 
PhilCod

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Lots of good info on this write up and the one Fartsalot did on the R2C. Thanks for all the info and pictures.

So just thinking out loud, for those of you who have taken the inner fender off and snorkel kit, would it be possible to cut and add the UNI filter inside that inner fender thus reducing the need to cut a hole? How hard is it to remove that fender? Harder than taking storage box out, taking stock filter out, and then taking the UNI filter off inside the air box, assuming you added one? Fartsalot advised that the gaps between that fender and the inner wall are wide and dirt just flows through there mad. But are those gaps small enough where you could add adhesive foam tape to the inner wall or fender? Thus trying to get the air draw from the side grate. Once again, I'm just thinking out loud to try and find a way to filter the air coming in and not cut a hole, and or go under the stock filter. I may be way off base.
Please let me know your thoughts.
Thanks!
 
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CID

CID

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Lots of good info on this write up and the one Fartsalot did on the R2C. Thanks for all the info and pictures.

So just thinking out loud, for those of you who have taken the inner fender off and snorkel kit, would it be possible to cut and add the UNI filter inside that inner fender thus reducing the need to cut a hole? How hard is it to remove that fender? Harder than taking storage box out, taking stock filter out, and then taking the UNI filter off inside the air box, assuming you added one? Fartsalot advised that the gaps between that fender and the inner wall are wide and dirt just flows through there mad. But are those gaps small enough where you could add adhesive foam tape to the inner wall or fender? Thus trying to get the air draw from the side grate. Once again, I'm just thinking out loud to try and find a way to filter the air coming in and not cut a hole, and or go under the stock filter. I may be way off base.
Please let me know your thoughts.
Thanks!
Short version - drill the hole.

Explanation:
I understand your concerns about cutting a hole in the body work, I'm pretty much the same way EXCEPT - protecting the engine is far more important than a 3" hole in a plastic panel. :oops: I rode dirt bikes for 50 years, the first ones had pleated paper air filters and on nearly every ride we'd 'whisker' a plug. This means enough dirt got through the filter to bridge the spark plug's gap resulting in a short to ground and the bike died, right now. It didn't take long to fix - remove plug, see whisker, run fingernail through gap, install plug, ride. At that time we weren't smart enough to realize that all the dirt wasn't getting collected by the plug, much more was doing permanent damage to the piston and cylinder too. :eek:

Filtron introduced oiled foam filters in the very early 70s and instantly fixed the problem so I've been a fan of oiled foam ever since.

When I started seeing reports of how fast and how dirty the Honda filter was getting in only 200 miles, I was looking for a solution and discovered HondaBob's snorkel idea shortly thereafter. With his photos and part numbers, I didn't have to do any thinking, designing or engineering, all I had to do was drill one hole. :) 👍 And away I went. There are two options - run the filter up to the roof or not, I didn't because I was concerned about intake noise closer to my head which turned out to be a non issue. The mechanical noise in the Talon is so loud that I have to wear hearing protection which I did on the motorcycles anyway (foam ear plugs).

I understand your thought about sealing the inner fender liner and forcing air to enter through the two fender vents. That might work if you could leave it in place but you need access to your filter so it will more trouble than it's worth. Removing the inner fender is much more difficult that removing my storage box and I can remove it 100's of times without wearing things out. If you keep removing the inner panel, the push pin holes will wear out over time, bad ju ju. Another problem IMO, if you put your filter behind the inner fender, you'll have to remove the goofy intake chamber. I didn't want to do that (like the SYA Warrior snorkel) because that chamber is for intake tuning and Honda engineers are smarter than I am.

With Bob's snorkel, my filter is 'right there'. It's easy to see when it needs cleaning and is held in place with one band clamp, 10 seconds to remove, once every 1000 miles in my case. I won't have to access the stock filter but once every 5000 miles, just to 'have a look', so removing my storage box will rarely be necessary.

More details here -

You'd have to remove the stock air intake chamber if you want to run a Uni foam filter here - (photo thx to Lil_Steve)
I JxZSRKM XL


Bob's snorkel idea on my Talon showing there's no room above the intake chamber for a filter.
I 7HPhcsr L
 
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PhilCod

PhilCod

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CID - thanks for the brutal honesty. Seriously its good to know that removing that panel sucks, and the outside filter is the best way to go. I'm going to look at mounting it just up from the panel and see if I can find a cover, like an up side down 3 quart bucket, to go over it to keep it from getting wet. Obviously it's a pre-filter, so a little wet won't kill it.
Thanks to HondaBob, and the others that chimed in on making this mod.
 
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CID

CID

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CID - thanks for the brutal honesty. Seriously its good to know that removing that panel sucks, and the outside filter is the best way to go. I'm going to look at mounting it just up from the panel and see if I can find a cover, like an up side down 3 quart bucket, to go over it to keep it from getting wet. Obviously it's a pre-filter, so a little wet won't kill it.
Thanks to HondaBob, and the others that chimed in on making this mod.
They make a fabric cover that's supposed to allow airflow but reject water for exposed pod filters. BUT - they also made similar 2" button inserts for snowmobile airboxes that were supposed to stop snow infiltration - the problem was they didn't flow anywhere near as much air as advertised, so I'm a bit gun shy about the idea. They have a drawstring to hold them on so I wouldn't cinch it down tight, allowing air to flow in from the bottom.

I don't remember the name of the covers, maybe @Lil_Steve can post up a link. He uses one and seems to be happy with it but that boy ain't rite. :oops: :p :eek:
 
Lil_Steve

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I don't remember the name of the covers, maybe @Lil_Steve can post up a link. He uses one and seems to be happy with it

I use this K&N filter with a Filterwears cover. I don't know the exact size of the cover, it was one of those items that Amazon suggested to buy together. Even if you go with a different pre-filter, Filterwears make those screen thingys in many sizes. It has worked very well for me.

but that boy ain't rite. :oops: :p :eek:

Why ike whatever do you mean
 
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SpeedBuggy

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I added an UNI filer inside the airbox as a pre filter. It works great and made a huge difference in the stock filter life. Pretty simple fix for my conditions, no loss of power or any problems. I actually have it out now for cleaning. Here’s a pic. I don’t see a part number on it but the neck where the hose clamp goes is cocked a little bit and fits like it was made for the Talon. To be transparent another member posted the idea.
0E483B9A 9391 40E1 954B 0CDA23A52B20
 
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SpeedBuggy

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McCarthy

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Does anyone know the part # for that ^
 
SpeedBuggy

SpeedBuggy

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Does anyone know the part # for that ^

I think it was in @jasond build sheet or YouTube videos. Sorry I’m not in position to search for it now.
 
SpeedBuggy

SpeedBuggy

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