P1000 Auxiliary Electrical System Build

[Eric450X]

So I am a long-time lurker here and have finally become part of the owners club. I recently picked up a low mile 2021 1000-5 that I have been slowly modifying for the last couple of months. My first priority was to build an auxiliary electrical system to handle any lights or radios that I will be addIng later. I wanted a plug-and-play setup that would allow me to easily add accessories without having a nest of wires under the hood. Here is what I have come up with.

Mod #1 - New Snorkel Intake
I needed to make room for the electrical panel so I used a 3" to 2.5" rubber reducer (Spectre Reducer) for an air intake that can be purchased at Autozone, Advance Auto, O'Reily's etc. That attaches to the air intake on the Pioneer on the 3" end and a 2" PVC 90 degree street elbow on the other end. A 3" to 2" PVC reducer goes on the end of the elbow to allow the prefilter to be used. This opened up the airbox area to allow for the auxiliary panel to be built.

Mod #2 - 2nd Battery Install
This is the typical 2nd battery install. A Tru Isolator and a 2nd battery were added.

Mod #3 - Auxiliary Electrical Panel
I wanted the ability to have relays for the higher amperage accessories so I choose a Bussman 15305-2-2-4 relay/fuse box which has 5 fused/relay circuits and 5 fused circuits. I followed the builds of a couple of guys I found on a Tacoma Forum and Youtube to help set up my system.
Tacoma World Bussman Relay Box Build Thread
Youtube Fuse Box Wiring Video
I won't bore you with all the details of the build but you can see how it is done in the links. I opted for a Honda SXS Auxiliary Battery Switch so I can power up the panel either with a key on function or as an auxiliary function if I don't want the primary electrical system powered. I used a $2.00 cutting board from Walmart as the base and was able to fit everything electrical on it. The harness in the picture will go to the 5 switches for the 5 relays. I still need to build the harness for the fuse side.

Now when I want to add an accessory all I need to do is mount the accessory, run the wires (in a loom), install the connector, and plug it in. If you made it this far, thanks for looking. If you have any questions, let me know.

 

[Admin]

 

[Hondasxs]

Very nice.
You have my respects for putting that Bussman box together. That is a task not everyone can accomplish.
Good job.

 

[Eric450X]

Very nice.
You have my respects for putting that Bussman box together. That is a task not everyone can accomplish.
Good job.

Thank you, Sir. I did a lot of research before starting. It was a fun project to do.

 

[bumperm]

Nice work. My only concern would be the intake restriction. A 3" ID circle area is 7.07 sq. inches, while a 2" is only 3.14 sq. inches, a 56% restriction due to the reduced cross section seems fairly significant. Not my field of expertise, but you'd probably notice it most at higher power settings. Mine gives up a few inches of altitude, but maintains inlet diameter and adds a pre-filter (which does add some restriction, though I haven't noticed any performance degradation).

 

[Eric450X]

Nice work. My only concern would be the intake restriction. A 3" ID circle area is 7.07 sq. inches, while a 2" is only 3.14 sq. inches, a 56% restriction due to the reduced cross section seems fairly significant. Not my field of expertise, but you'd probably notice it most at higher power settings. Mine gives up a few inches of altitude, but maintains inlet diameter and adds a pre-filter (which does add some restriction, though I haven't noticed and performance degradation).

View attachment 331532

Thanks! I thought about that also when I built it. I figured I would test it out and see. So far I haven’t noticed any performance difference. I’ve logged 20 trail miles and some road miles so far and it still seems to run the same. I will have to try some high rpm runs to see if it is affected. If I do notice any issues I may have enough room to do what you did. I don’t plan on sinking the machine so the difference in height isn’t an issue. Would you happen to have a link or part number for the filter you used?

 

[bumperm]

Would you happen to have a link or part number for the filter you used?

Here's the: Filter

And the coupler: Coupler

Note that one of the expanded ends of the coupler will need to be cut off if you want to slide it directly into the Honda provided ducting. A sturdy spray container (WD-40 can or similar), could also serve this purpose, as it's the right size as well. The coupler fits into the filter housing and then the opposite end is a friction fit in the original duct.

 

[Double J]

Completed my aux battery install today. Happy with the way it turned out, everything works as it should dual volt meter, USB, light switches etc. Cheers Ride-on….

 

[Eric450X]

Completed my aux battery install today. Happy with the way it turned out, everything works as it should dual volt meter, USB, light switches etc. Cheers Ride-on….

View attachment 331559 View attachment 331560

Nice! Half the joy of owning these things is tinkering on them.

 

[Bighat]

I haven't done my yet but I was set in stone on doing the bussman with the micro relays that was water proof. But I kept looking and now I'm think I'm going with the Voswitch Univeral-UV100. I did the math. This is the best route for me, fast, simple and space saving.

 

[Bighat]

By the way, you did a hell of a job. Looks great.

 

[Eric450X]

I haven't done my yet but I was set in stone on doing the bussman with the micro relays that was water proof. But I kept looking and now I'm think I'm going with the Voswitch Univeral-UV100. I did the math. This is the best route for me, fast, simple and space saving.

Thanks! I looked at systems like the Voswitch but all the ones I saw were solid state/unmaintainable. I see the Voswitch has replaceable relays. That is nice! Knowing that, I would have gone that direction also. I did enjoy building mine though and I know, and can fix, every part of it if need be. Good luck with your build!

 

[Robobrainiac]

Very nice and clean! Great job! I will give you another intake idea. I found it from another member from this forum. It may work for your setup. You might have to move some stuff but it will retain diameter and give you an "in the dash" snorkel. Just don't look too much into my wiring. I'm no good at it

Post #47

P1000m5 - The Robo Build

Raising The Bar & Clearing The View: 07-20-21 I liked the Aomais Go dueling speakers but I got tired of letting them swing around while hanging from bungee balls on the ROPS and blocking my view in the rear view mirror. So I hung them up horizontally using hose clamps. They are solid up there...

hondasxs.com

 

[Eric450X]

Very nice and clean! Great job! I will give you another intake idea. I found it from another member from this forum. It may work for your setup. You might have to move some stuff but it will retain diameter and give you an "in the dash" snorkel. Just don't look too much into my wiring. I'm no good at it

Post #47

P1000m5 - The Robo Build

Raising The Bar & Clearing The View: 07-20-21 I liked the Aomais Go dueling speakers but I got tired of letting them swing around while hanging from bungee balls on the ROPS and blocking my view in the rear view mirror. So I hung them up horizontally using hose clamps. They are solid up there...

hondasxs.com

Thanks! I have seen the Gates hose intake mod but thanks for the suggestion. I plan on testing out the one I built to see if I need to make a change. If I do need to do some thing I’ll have options. This place is so helpful!

 

[ToddACimer]

Looks good. I'm running the same circuit breaker and fuse box. The Eaton setup was really nice to put together.

 

[Eric450X]

Looks good. I'm running the same circuit breaker and fuse box. The Eaton setup was really nice to put together.

Thanks! It was a nice build. Once I did the research and knew how I wanted it to work it was a pretty straight forward build.

 

[bumperm]

Thanks! I have seen the Gates hose intake mod but thanks for the suggestion. I plan on testing out the one I built to see if I need to make a change. If I do need to do some thing I’ll have options. This place is so helpful!

When you're testing your current set up, consider too that your air filter is new with minimal restriction, so the system will flow with minimal back pressure from the filter. You intake restriction may hasten a loss in performance down the line as the air filter increases back pressure when partially clogged.

BTW, I bought that intake hose that @Robobrainiac suggests. Sitting on the shelf, didn't use it as stuff I'd already mounted would need to be shuffled around (the '21 SE has more under the hood doo-dads to begin with, making space harder to come by). I weighed the pros and cons, and decided the extra few inches in intake height wasn't worth it. After all, I'm in the Nevada desert, and will be lucky to find water as deep as my axles.

 

[Eric450X]

When you're testing your current set up, consider too that your air filter is new with minimal restriction, so the system will flow with minimal back pressure from the filter. You intake restriction may hasten a loss in performance down the line as the air filter increases back pressure when partially clogged.

BTW, I bought that intake hose that @Robobrainiac suggests. Sitting on the shelf, didn't use it as stuff I'd already mounted would need to be shuffled around (the '21 SE has more under the hood doo-dads to begin with, making space harder to come by). I weighed the pros and cons, and decided the extra few inches in intake height wasn't worth it. After all, I'm in the Nevada desert, and will be lucky to find water as deep as my axles.

Uni Filter UP4300 I found this filter that has a 3” ID opening and 3.75” in diameter I need to measure but this should be a direct fit without a coupler. It is also smaller in diameter for my setup. There is a 2 stage version that is 4.5” in diameter. I need to measure to see how much room I have.

 

[Eric450X]

When you're testing your current set up, consider too that your air filter is new with minimal restriction, so the system will flow with minimal back pressure from the filter. You intake restriction may hasten a loss in performance down the line as the air filter increases back pressure when partially clogged.

BTW, I bought that intake hose that @Robobrainiac suggests. Sitting on the shelf, didn't use it as stuff I'd already mounted would need to be shuffled around (the '21 SE has more under the hood doo-dads to begin with, making space harder to come by). I weighed the pros and cons, and decided the extra few inches in intake height wasn't worth it. After all, I'm in the Nevada desert, and will be lucky to find water as deep as my axles.

I did some research this morning. A NA 1000cc fuel-injected engine running at 8000rpm will need anywhere from 113CFM to around 283CFM of air depending on its volumetric efficiency. A carburated engine as a VE of .8. Fuel-Injection and Variable Valve Timing systems can raise that up to 2.0 and turbos can take it to 3.0. If I use a 1.5 VE, which is probably on the high side for these engines, I get 212CFM of air the engine requires. Air Flow of an Engine Calculator

Using a simple flow rate calculator a theoretical CFM for a 2" pipe that is 1' long and flowing 11psi (22inHG for vacuum) will flow over 2900CFM of air. If my thought process is correct my 2" elbow should be sufficient to flow enough air for the engine at WOT. Flow Rate Calculator

If I am incorrect in my thinking I would appreciate an education on how to properly calculate it if that is someone's specialty.

 

[Robobrainiac]

I did some research this morning. A NA 1000cc fuel-injected engine running at 8000rpm will need anywhere from 113CFM to around 283CFM of air depending on its volumetric efficiency. A carburated engine as a VE of .8. Fuel-Injection and Variable Valve Timing systems can raise that up to 2.0 and turbos can take it to 3.0. If I use a 1.5 VE, which is probably on the high side for these engines, I get 212CFM of air the engine requires. Air Flow of an Engine Calculator

Using a simple flow rate calculator a theoretical CFM for a 2" pipe that is 1' long and flowing 11psi (22inHG for vacuum) will flow over 2900CFM of air. If my thought process is correct my 2" elbow should be sufficient to flow enough air for the engine at WOT. Flow Rate Calculator

If I am incorrect in my thinking I would appreciate an education on how to properly calculate it if that is someone's specialty.

Simple logical deduction says k and n makes it bigger so that obviously always means better .... Right



I think you are spot on and true independent calculations are always awesome! Great job.

If I remember correctly the only other "variable" would be a "quick" intake vacuum surge like from idle to wide open throttle. It can sometimes require a little "extra" oomph if that makes sense. I am not sure of the technological terms used but it's why you may often see a large "box" like structure on some filter housing or intake tubes. It may not apply to these smaller engines tho.

 

[bumperm]

Simple logical deduction says k and n makes it bigger so that obviously always means better .... Right



I think you are spot on and true independent calculations are always awesome! Great job.

If I remember correctly the only other "variable" would be a "quick" intake vacuum surge like from idle to wide open throttle. It can sometimes require a little "extra" oomph if that makes sense. I am not sure of the technological terms used but it's why you may often see a large "box" like structure on some filter housing or intake tubes. It may not apply to these smaller engines tho.

Fluid dynamics is not one of those things I've been schooled in, but then, not much else is either. However, I do know that it isn't always straightforward and that small things, like intentionally turbulating the flow etc. can have a dramatic and sometimes unexpected effect (think dimples on a golf ball). That said, you have to give the engineers at Honda credit, even if they haven't always been right. If a 2" intake tube would work just fine and be more than adequate, why did they use 3" (or 75mm)? And when putting in a snorkel, why not drop it down to 2" for the whole run and make it that much easier to route and a "cleaner" install? Folks make changes, I'm one of them, but it's good to know that changes move things in the right direction towards better performance, utility, and or reliability. Going from 3" to 2" on the intake doesn't seem all that logical.