Which wireless remote did you purchase? I have read that some are not reliable (Badlands wireless remote $39.00).
Which wireless remote did you purchase? I have read that some are not reliable (Badlands wireless remote $39.00).
Just ordered a KFI mount and soon to purchase a winch. Leaning towards the badlands 3500 but the SuperAtv 3500 black ops winch interest me also.
3500 lb. Synthetic Rope ATV Winch -With Wireless Remote
Watching this thread closely. Sorry for my off topic chatter as this thread was started for wiring help.
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Most folks are using the 15-20 dollar wireless remote off amazon. It’s unirversal and works well. Comes with reciever and two remotes. One like a key fob for a car and the other is a little bit larger.
The biggest difference I see with the badlands 3500 and the superatv 3500 black ops other than the price, is the gear reduction ratio. And if I understand the gear ratio correctly that is what determines a winches line speed. A lot of people complain how slow the badlands is and that is because of its 133:1 gear ratio I suppose. Not a huge deal really. Depending on the recovery situation a strong slow stead pull is better. As I said earlier in a post the wires that come with the superatv are just 8 gage which I guess are ok? But a 4 or 6 gage wire is better. I’m really torn which one to get. But kinda leaning towards the badlands. If the superatv black ops 3500 had a better gage wire when I spoke on the phone with them today that very may have made my decision for me. I’m still torn which one to get but I’m leaning towards the badlands. @Mudder helped me figure out what circuit breaker I need and I’ve got it figured out in my head how to wire it up. Just gotta decide on the winch.
The biggest difference I see with the badlands 3500 and the superatv 3500 black ops other than the price, is the gear reduction ratio. And if I understand the gear ratio correctly that is what determines a winches line speed. A lot of people complain how slow the badlands is and that is because of its 133:1 gear ratio I suppose. Not a huge deal really. Depending on the recovery situation a strong slow stead pull is better. As I said earlier in a post the wires that come with the superatv are just 8 gage which I guess are ok? But a 4 or 6 gage wire is better. I’m really torn which one to get. But kinda leaning towards the badlands. If the superatv black ops 3500 had a better gage wire when I spoke on the phone with them today that very may have made my decision for me. I’m still torn which one to get but I’m leaning towards the badlands. @Mudder helped me figure out what circuit breaker I need and I’ve got it figured out in my head how to wire it up. Just gotta decide on the winch.
trigger
Old Ironsides
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Have read where the wiring cables provided with some winch's aren't long enough and you end up buying replacements anyway. My KFI cables were just long enough but still dictated how I routed and mounted things, a little longer would've been better. If you replace them with longer ones you should also increase the size. I ended up cutting half of the length off of mine and running them to the battery under the seat, shorter run and added a 300 amp CB in between.
https://www.amazon.com/XSCORPION-CB300L-Circuit-Breaker-Indicator/dp/B001RS4YOM?tag=sxsweb24-20
https://www.amazon.com/XSCORPION-CB300L-Circuit-Breaker-Indicator/dp/B001RS4YOM?tag=sxsweb24-20
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That is what I understand too. Wires with these winch kits are long enough and as I found out today talking to superatv reps the gage is only 8gage. So since I’m getting new wires proper gage an length anyway I think I’m going to get the badlands 3500 (I think) even though I really like that superatv black ops winch
Mudder
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Went via Walmart, free shipping. Similar out there with 2 remote fobs for $16.
https://www.walmart.com/ip/TSV-12V-...Hlu8k-YfiRHqsULkvgDxraN9B1ODTn7QaAk_jEALw_wcB
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Well everyone I ordered the SuperAtv 3500 black ops winch last night on amazon 199.00 free shipping. I just really liked that winch from the start or my research an search for a winch. I like the cosmetic look it has and I like the way they have the connections for the solenoid with the Y adaptor for the remotes. All in all with the other items I have coming I’m 330-340 dollars roughly into having the winch an all I need to get it installed and hooked up. Only thing I still have to get is larger gage wire. Just going to get some 4 gage 16’ jumper cables. I ordered a nice orange synthetic rope with a hook that I will replace the synthetic rope that comes on the winch. I just prefer orange rope for two reason one being visibility when using the rope and the other being cosmetic on the machine. Plus that will give me a spare rope or additional rope should I need any. I have the Honda accessory subharness coming along with the KFI mount. I also ordered a digital volt meter that has two USB ports that I plan to hook up on the P5. Only think I ordered that I don’t need is the wiresless remote cause the superatv black ops comes with one. BUT I will keep. I read a review or two where the wireless remote included had stopped working. So if that should happen I’ll have one laying around. It was 16 bucks so I want send it back. I’ve also got to get a ciricuit breaker bought. Other than that that’s about it. Just awaiting everyone to get here. Next I get to drop 450 bucks for the Honda OEM hard tip out windshield.
Mudder
NTC Ambassador of Walls
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Consider buying a snatch block, a tree strap and shackle.
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My winch came with two50 amp self resetting breakers wired together on a bar. How much of a resettable breaker would I need. It’s a superwinch 2500.
Mudder
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To subsitute breaker for OEM ones, check manual/google for amp at max pull of exact model you have, and the gauge wiring you installed. Don’t want to guess and steer you wrong. Duty cycle also good to know. Wire gauge chart in earlier post.
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Replies to this post have hit around the point of breaker sizing with some details left out. The point of the breaker is to protect the wiring, not the device (winch) at the end of the wire. Failure to protect the wiring can result in an overheated wire with the risk of fire, exploding battery, etc, in the case of a wire or winch short to ground or overloading an undersized wire.
The wire should be sized to deliver the current that the winch at the end of the wire demands keeping in mind the length of the wire run. Once the wire size for the device is determined the breaker is sized to protect the wiring.
Keeping that in mind, ensure that you do not place a smaller wire after the breaker for lights, etc. without adding a breaker or fuse to protect the smaller wire size.
Your winch documentation should define full load current. If not, one horsepower equates to 746 watts.
Watts in a DC circuit equate to voltage times current. Dividing 746 watts by 12volts yields approximately 62 amps for a 1 horsepower winch.
Simple search on 12 volts DC wire sizes will give you the wire size you need, somewhere between 4 and 2 gauge wiring depending on the length of the wire run. Then select your breaker to protect the wire for the current the wire can handle, in the example above, conservatively a 60 amp breaker should do the job.
I'm sure plenty people have sized wires smaller than this and are satisfied with their winch performance. Still fine as long as the breaker is sized to protect the smaller wire. For example, even though the winch requires 60 amps, smaller wire size is selected and can only handle 40 amps. The breaker then needs to be sized to the wire capacity, 40 amps and not the winch capacity, 60 amps.
Larger wires are better. Simple example is when you try to jump start a car with a cheap (small wire gauge) pair of jumper cables with no results. Someone then shows up with a more expensive (larger wire gauge) set and the car starts.
Any case, at the end of the day protect the wire size with an appropriately sized breaker for that wire. The standards are defined by the National Electric Code which is part of the NFPA, National Fire Prevention Association. Don't burn down that Pioneer!
The wire should be sized to deliver the current that the winch at the end of the wire demands keeping in mind the length of the wire run. Once the wire size for the device is determined the breaker is sized to protect the wiring.
Keeping that in mind, ensure that you do not place a smaller wire after the breaker for lights, etc. without adding a breaker or fuse to protect the smaller wire size.
Your winch documentation should define full load current. If not, one horsepower equates to 746 watts.
Watts in a DC circuit equate to voltage times current. Dividing 746 watts by 12volts yields approximately 62 amps for a 1 horsepower winch.
Simple search on 12 volts DC wire sizes will give you the wire size you need, somewhere between 4 and 2 gauge wiring depending on the length of the wire run. Then select your breaker to protect the wire for the current the wire can handle, in the example above, conservatively a 60 amp breaker should do the job.
I'm sure plenty people have sized wires smaller than this and are satisfied with their winch performance. Still fine as long as the breaker is sized to protect the smaller wire. For example, even though the winch requires 60 amps, smaller wire size is selected and can only handle 40 amps. The breaker then needs to be sized to the wire capacity, 40 amps and not the winch capacity, 60 amps.
Larger wires are better. Simple example is when you try to jump start a car with a cheap (small wire gauge) pair of jumper cables with no results. Someone then shows up with a more expensive (larger wire gauge) set and the car starts.
Any case, at the end of the day protect the wire size with an appropriately sized breaker for that wire. The standards are defined by the National Electric Code which is part of the NFPA, National Fire Prevention Association. Don't burn down that Pioneer!
trigger
Old Ironsides
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Honestly I put the CB's in so I could easily kill power to the accessories without having to disconnect the batteries. Common sense, if you're working that winch hard, be aware of how hot it's getting. If too hot to touch, let it cool down for a bit before starting the pull again. But as most of us know, common sense isn't very common anymore. 
Mudder
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Here’s the chart full size from post P500 - Call for winch wiring help??
Exactly, C.B. to easily cut power for safety when working on circuit, and to protect smallest wire it protects. Good reminder @WildTurkey to add separate protection for lesser guage wire/accessories branching of main high amp line. Have a few in-line fuses under hood for the little stuff.
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Judging from this chart @Mudder i think I’ll use 4 gage wire on my winch install. I bought the same circuit breaker 150amp that you have. I think it will work fine. Unless everyone thinks the 8gage wire that comes with the superatv winch I have on order is sufficient gage for the winch.
Also I received my KFI mount and other goodies today. I mounted the KFI mount already. Very easy install. Looks good on there. Question I have is where will the hawse fairlead attach too? The winch comes with a plate. From looking at the instruction online off superatv website on the 3500 black ops winch will that included plate mount to the winch and the winch An plate to the KFI mount? The included plate looks to have tabs where the hawse attach too. I’m sure it will make sense once I see the winch in person when it arrives. But from looking at my mounted KFI mount I wasn’t sure how the hawse fairlead would attach....
nctrailboss
Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
If you mount your contact block on or near the firewall,2 runs of about 11 feet will do it.I used 10ft runs and it just barely made it.The winch plate that comes with the winch sandwiches between the Kfi mount and the winch.The fairlead bolts to that plate.Dropping the skids is the way to go running the wires.
H
Thanks @nctrailboss that is what I was thinking too. It looked like that plate where the hawse mounts would just sandwich between the winch an KFI mount. Winch should be here first of the week. Thanks for the reference on the cable length. I’m replacing the cable to the winch and solenoid to battery as they’re 8 gage that come with the winch. You think 4 or 6 gage?? I’m thinking 4 gage? I’ll probably put the solenoid somewhere up there on or around the firewall. Plenty of room in there. The digital volt meter I bought has two prongs a positive An neg. I think I can run the negative to the battery and the positive to one of the pig tails off the Honda accessory subharness? That would leave me two pig tails one for rear work light and one for small 6-8” light bar in the front. I think that should work fine? Excited this is all starting to come together. I’m not excited to drop 450 dollars on that Honda OEM hard coat tip out windshield though lol
By the way what part of NC are ya in?
nctrailboss
Well-Known Member
Supporting Member
4ga. wire is best.I went by the welding supply store and got 20 ft of 4ga. welding lead.You are correct on using the positive and negative ends of the 4ga. from the batt. for other things as well.I am in Laurinburg,just across the road from Outback ATV park.
Mudder
NTC Ambassador of Walls
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Don’t forget about enough 4 ga. Wire lugs for each connection point. It was a tight fit inside battery box, had to enlarge a exit hole.
