P1000 Diy skid plates

[ToddACimer]

63" wide, I will make it 2 pieces. I will use a festool domino to make the seem between the panels. I want to replicate the FUTV style vs 3 piece on trailarmor.

Service manual says P1k is 63" wide. I will measure exactly rail to rail when I get home. Figure 63 is a good starting point for pricing.

The only down side to the mid belly lateral split on the skid plate is that the factory rock sliders are about 3/4" higher off the ground than the center frame tubes so you'll be bending the plate around the edge of the frame on both sides. I avoided the lateral split because if you're sliding over rocks you will point load and flex the UHMW and you could potentially get hung up on the seam in the material where it is unsupported between the rock rail and the frame rail.

For me the longitudinal seam made more sense

 

[Admin]

 

[Neohio]

I see what you did now. I hope to get mine on ramps this weekend and get under it with a tape and sketch pad.
I don't mind relieve the back a bit to bend it up towards the rock rails.
I have considered splitting some 2"OD .120 wall tubing and adding it to the rock rail. Mine has taken some damage already. With lateral splits, I want to use dominos for alignment, and maybe some sheet steel on the back for more support.

 

[Leatherneck]

I got 60 feet of this stuff left over from a job. It's dog bone uhmw thinking about skids on the stock pan

 

[ToddACimer]

View attachment 62878
I got 60 feet of this stuff left over from a job. It's dog bone uhmw thinking about skids on the stock pan

I'll be the first to say that would be cool under the factory rock sliders. Nice radius parallel to the slider tube and outside the body width

 

[Strick9]

The only down side to the mid belly lateral split on the skid plate is that the factory rock sliders are about 3/4" higher off the ground than the center frame tubes so you'll be bending the plate around the edge of the frame on both sides. I avoided the lateral split because if you're sliding over rocks you will point load and flex the UHMW and you could potentially get hung up on the seam in the material where it is unsupported between the rock rail and the frame rail.

For me the longitudinal seam made more sense
View attachment 62776

Looks like the skid plates turned out awesome!

 

[Smitty335]

The only down side to the mid belly lateral split on the skid plate is that the factory rock sliders are about 3/4" higher off the ground than the center frame tubes so you'll be bending the plate around the edge of the frame on both sides. I avoided the lateral split because if you're sliding over rocks you will point load and flex the UHMW and you could potentially get hung up on the seam in the material where it is unsupported between the rock rail and the frame rail.

For me the longitudinal seam made more sense
View attachment 62776

Got all my tools out to do the visor today, just couldn't do it. Went back to the retractable visor thought, found some friction hinges and going to try to build fold up visors. The fold ups will be great with the tinted plexi glass that you can see through. Thanks for the idea!

 

[Cuoutdoors]

We are trying to paint some white in the shop, not going so well any ideas? The paint just bubbles up and peels off lol.

You ever tried to staple jello to a tree? This ain't happenin

 

[Cuoutdoors]

Well for what it's worth I found a place to order some UHMW. The company is Midland Plastics and I believe they have a few locations around Wisconsin, illinois, and Iowa.

The brand new UHMW which is white is actually $50 cheaper than the black re-manufactured UHMW. They can get a sheet that is 1/2" thick and 60"x120" So now I can do the full skid in one solid piece. I plan to run it up the front some for a "bash plate"
The rock sliders are 58" wide. I think I'll leave the extra inch on there for some extra protection down the sides. I'll keep you posted on how it works out. Could be a terrible idea.

 

[Cuoutdoors]

The only down side to the mid belly lateral split on the skid plate is that the factory rock sliders are about 3/4" higher off the ground than the center frame tubes so you'll be bending the plate around the edge of the frame on both sides. I avoided the lateral split because if you're sliding over rocks you will point load and flex the UHMW and you could potentially get hung up on the seam in the material where it is unsupported between the rock rail and the frame rail.

For me the longitudinal seam made more sense
View attachment 62776

I do like the bends you did in the fender wells. How did you bend it?

 

[ToddACimer]

I do like the bends you did in the fender wells. How did you bend it?

Heat, 1/4" plate in the vise and patience. I heated one side til it looked just a little glossy or wet and then heated the other side as I started to bend it. You'll probtpro need a slight over bend to get to the final position

 

[Neohio]

I stumbled across a site called thomasnet.com
I used it to locate UHMW suppliers in my area.
Found a sheet of 4*8*1/2" for $329 plus tax. Curbell Plastics.
Definitely going to bookmark thomasnet.

 

[Firemedic530]

@ToddACimer
I found 1/2 4x10 sheet close to me and plan on following your design. How did you attach the side pieces to the under belly? I have ordered 20 of the stock washers to use. I'm also curious on your thoughts of making your own A arm guards? I should have enough material.
Thanks in advance.
Tim

 

[ToddACimer]

@ToddACimer
I found 1/2 4x10 sheet close to me and plan on following your design. How did you attach the side pieces to the under belly? I have ordered 20 of the stock washers to use. I'm also curious on your thoughts of making your own A arm guards? I should have enough material.
Thanks in advance.
Tim

My center panel is 30" wide so my side panels tuck above the center panel and bolt into the sides. I used m6 nutserts in the factory rock sliders and 4 bolts per side panel.

The a-arm guards are tough to form because you need to bend them to a specific angle and the 2 bends aren't perpendicular or parallel to one another. I really like the looks of the factory UTV guards and I didn't think I could do better for the $200 they cost. It's 8 more complex bends and lots of cuts

Odd coincidence but I was in Marysville, OH this week for work.

 

[Firemedic530]

That's what it looked like. I may have to router a groove in mine since it's thicker. I won't be building it until 2 days before i head to the TO. I was guessing either nutzerts or just threading the tubing.
I will look at those guards. Thank you for the quick response.
I may have more questions once I'm building.

You were less than 30 miles from me.

 

[JTW]

That's what it looked like. I may have to router a groove in mine since it's thicker. I won't be building it until 2 days before i head to the TO. I was guessing either nutzerts or just threading the tubing.
I will look at those guards. Thank you for the quick response.
I may have more questions once I'm building.

You were less than 30 miles from me.

I don’t like them.. but most of the aftermarket (if not all) use selftapping screws to mount the skids.

@ToddACimer did you counter sink your washers and bolts? That’s my plan this week as I’m building mine too before TO

 

[ToddACimer]

I don’t like them.. but most of the aftermarket (if not all) use selftapping screws to mount the skids.

@ToddACimer did you counter sink your washers and bolts? That’s my plan this week as I’m building mine too before TO

I drilled my skid plate holes to 5/8" or 3/4" where the bolts go so the Honda washers self center and sit in the oversize hole. I did not specifically counter sink them but they sit in the skid plate

 

[Firemedic530]

I finished my skid plate last night. Time to load up.

 

[ToddACimer]

I finished my skid plate last night. Time to load up.

View attachment 72506 View attachment 72507

Nice work!! I have to say that design looks pretty familiar. I do suggest that you add some exhaust vent holes on the right side or you will probably melt that plastic rear muffler shield, your exhaust needs some ventilation to keep the muffler cool.

 

[Firemedic530]

Done. Thank you for the advice. Now time to load up.

 

[ToddACimer]

Done. Thank you for the advice. Now time to load up.

View attachment 72529

See how that does. I mimiced the Honda triangular cut outs with 1" holes but what you have should work too