P1000 Forwards AArms and Shocks P1000

[Scamih]

1. Had anyone used these M1 shocks seemed to have good reviews.

2. Do I need new axels with every type of forward an arms I get or just certain types.

 

[Remington]

Always use the search first before starting a new thread, 90% of the time its been covered. Here is your shock question.

P1000 - Rough Country Shocks

Has anyone bought and ran the Rough Country shocks for the Pioneer 1000’s?

hondasxs.com

As for arms , depends on the arms and what all your doing with the rig. If you go to for example, the SATV site and check out there arms, it will tell u when larger axels are needed. Again, this question has been covered time and time again on here as well.

 

[Robobrainiac]

There is alot of mixed debate on whether or not to use OEM axles or not. Most will tell you that if you use forward arms and no lift then OEM is fine. Always check the manufacturer recommended parts when adding a lift. Most will instruct you on anything additional they may recommend. Even when it doesn't come in the "kit" there may be things they would recommend you purchase. I have aftermarket arched arms and a lift. I replaced both of my front with rhino 2.0 when the cv shaft started clicking on one side. My rear are still OE. In my experience the OE seem fine with aftermarket arms and a little lift.

The only real "damage" done to axles is when turning at full lock. (especially in 4WD and Full 4WD Lock) If you avoid full lock when you can then you will mitigate any issue and most likely be fine. They also make steering stops to help reduce axle angle at full turn by limiting a full turn.

The shocks are new enough I am not sure if you will find much information of a combination of both shocks and arms. There are a few people on here using the rough country shocks. Rough country also just released a gas reservoir shock as well for the pioneer if you want to get fancy.

 

[Remington]

There is alot of mixed debate on whether or not to use OEM axles or not.

Where is this? The OEMs are strongest. You CANT use them with arms and a lift fo sho, they will bind and snap eventually.
But if you want just the silly lift, the OEM’s are just fine

I have aftermarket arched arms and a lift. I replaced both of my front with rhino 2.0 when the cv shaft started clicking on one side.

But did you use stock length axels or longer ones like SATV tells you to do if you use a lift?
Aslo, another reason I personally dislike the lift, another Geometry change that causes premature ware on parts especially axels.

 

[Robobrainiac]

Where is this? The OEMs are strongest. You CANT use them with arms and a lift fo sho, they will bind and snap eventually

But did you use stock length axels or longer ones like SATV tells you to do if you use a lift?
Aslo, another reason I personally dislike the lift, another Geometry change that causes premature ware on parts especially axels.

I just see many points from both sides stating OEM and rhino axles are great.

I had the highlifter arms and high lifter lift when my axle started clicking. I replaced both of my front with the OE length Rhino 2.0. Since then I removed the highlifter arms and lift and now have the c-fab 3" lift arched arms. I am still running the OE length rhino 2.0. I do have steering stops on mine.

I drive until something breaks and then I replace with what I feel is an adequate upgrade.

 

[Remington]

I had the highlifter arms and high lifter lift when my axle started clicking. I replaced both of my front with the OE length Rhino 2.0

Thats why you had a clicking.
Lift, arms and OE length axels. Not the fault of the axels there.

I removed the highlifter arms and lift and now have the c-fab 3" lift arched arms. I am still running the OE length rhino 2.0. I do have steering stops on mine.

Cant vouch for C-fab with a lift if they require longer axels having the built in lift. If they do, wont be long and youll have the same issue.
But SATV recommends them with a bracket lift fo sho. Alot of the original HFA crew thats harder than anyone Ive ever seen on this forum on rigs can contest to that and the OEM axel debate. I have Rino’s they've been good to me and the warrenty is great @SuperATV is great dude to work with as well.
Would have got OEM’s when mine finnaly broke but there hard to find and pricy.

One things fo sho! Weve confused and freeked the hell out of the OP just now! 🤣

 

[Robobrainiac]

Thats why you had a clicking.
Lift, arms and OE length axels. Not the fault of the axels there.

Cant vouch for C-fab with a lift if they require longer axels having the built in lift. If they do, wont be long and youll have the same issue.
But SATV recommends them with a bracket lift fo sho. Alot of the original HFA crew thats harder than anyone Ive ever seen on this forum on rigs can contest to that and the OEM axel debate. I have Rino’s they've been good to me and the warrenty is great @SuperATV is great dude to work with as well.
Would have got OEM’s when mine finnaly broke but there hard to find and pricy.

One things fo sho! Weve confused and freeked the hell out of the OP just now! 🤣

I don't blame the OE axles one bit.

I can say from experience my friend/co-worker has an all stock base 1000-3 and month 10 had a clicking in a rear axle. When attempting to warranty claim it the local dealer refused to warranty it. My friend had replaced the factory tires with kenda executioner tires. Factory size front and rear, factory steel wheels. The local dealer would not warranty the axle because of the tires. I blame that on our local dealer. (I really don't like our local dealer)

C-Fab does not list any info on axle recommendation.

I agree with your post

 

[Remington]

I don't blame the OE axles one bit.

I can say from experience my friend/co-worker has an all stock base 1000-3 and month 10 had a clicking in a rear axle. When attempting to warranty claim it the local dealer refused to warranty it. My friend had replaced the factory tires with kenda executioner tires. Factory size front and rear, factory steel wheels. The local dealer would not warranty the axle because of the tires. I blame that on our local dealer. (I really don't like our local dealer)

C-Fab does not list any info on axle recommendation.

I agree with your post

Yeah thats a poopy dealer.
Id take it someplace else that wants your business.

 

[Scamih]

So in your opinions if I go with these shocks that have a 2 inch lift and super atv forward AArms should I buy new axels. My problem is I drive on roads and sandy creeks most of the year and go to Tennessee once a year. I don’t want the problem to show up when I’m at Royal blue on my weekend trip. If I stick with stock axels will the problems show up when cruising on the road or riding the creek?

 

[Scoop]

Yeah thats a poopy dealer.

Is that better or worse than a poo-poo dealer, @Remington?

 

[Robobrainiac]

Yeah thats a poopy dealer.
Id take it someplace else that wants your business.

I totally agree with you. I avoid my local dealer at all cost and inform others to do the same.

 

[Robobrainiac]

So in your opinions if I go with these shocks that have a 2 inch lift and super atv forward AArms should I buy new axels. My problem is I drive on roads and sandy creeks most of the year and go to Tennessee once a year. I don’t want the problem to show up when I’m at Royal blue on my weekend trip. If I stick with stock axels will the problems show up when cruising on the road or riding the creek?

In my opinion I would run the OE axles and replace with rhino when needed.

I am sure the professional @SuperATV will have a good recommendation.

 

[Remington]

Is that better or worse than a poo-poo dealer, @Remington?

Right up there as the same! 😂

 

[TripleB]

So in your opinions if I go with these shocks that have a 2 inch lift and super atv forward AArms should I buy new axels. My problem is I drive on roads and sandy creeks most of the year and go to Tennessee once a year. I don’t want the problem to show up when I’m at Royal blue on my weekend trip. If I stick with stock axels will the problems show up when cruising on the road or riding the creek?

If you have a issue with your axles, there is a good chance it will show up on the road riding with the arms and lift. The axles may overheat and fail due to the extreme angle. Ask @Bad_bowtie I've had it happen to a brand new SuperATV 2.0 axle on @Plumber32 pioneer and it had the arms, lift and probably too much preload on the rear shocks.

 

[Scoop]

@JACKAL will be along soon to ask why anyone even needs to modify thier stock machine ...

 

[Smitty335]

So in your opinions if I go with these shocks that have a 2 inch lift and super atv forward AArms should I buy new axels. My problem is I drive on roads and sandy creeks most of the year and go to Tennessee once a year. I don’t want the problem to show up when I’m at Royal blue on my weekend trip. If I stick with stock axels will the problems show up when cruising on the road or riding the creek?

For the last time for me, shocks aren't for lift unless your old shocks are sagged out. Research shock / spring set up. It will tell you how the set the proper spring sag.

 

[Scoop]

For the last time for me, shocks aren't for lift unless your old shocks are sagged out. Research shock / spring set up. It will tell you how the set the proper spring sag.

Time for you to start living on the edge, @Smitty335 !

 

[Smitty335]

If he don’t he won’t get the benefits of better shocks

Everyone should research shock set up before they go out and buy shocks.

 

[Scoop]

Everyone should research shock set up before they go out and buy shocks.

Isn't that exactly what the OP is doing, @Smitty335 ?

 

[JACKAL]

@JACKAL will be along soon to ask why anyone even needs to modify thier stock machine ...

Everyone should buy all the confidence they can afford, just don't expect my sympathy for those who spent thier way out of a reliable setup.

Just like my old racing buddy from the 80's ATC racing, he would always fix it until it breaks. Pretty sure his last lap finishes were under 10% But it would go like hell for half of the race🙃